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Engine mounts - who long do they last?
- Thread starter goldNSX
- Start date
I had the front one go first, it was torn and I replaced it with SOS rebuilt one (the "stock feel").
Could not tell the difference and I can't remember how I discovered the torn one, I believe I was doing a clutch replacement.
Today, I would just fill the existing mount with urethane and be done with it. Cheaper, faster, and a lifetime fix.
It would be nice to get a poll of anybody with solid or urethane mounts. Is there any issue with NVH, metal fatigue and/or galled bolt threads?
Could not tell the difference and I can't remember how I discovered the torn one, I believe I was doing a clutch replacement.
Today, I would just fill the existing mount with urethane and be done with it. Cheaper, faster, and a lifetime fix.
It would be nice to get a poll of anybody with solid or urethane mounts. Is there any issue with NVH, metal fatigue and/or galled bolt threads?
Drew,
What do you mean by filling it with urethane? We can buy liquid urethane? Or did you mean to just REPLACE with urethane made mounts?
Thanks!
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
I'm not a fan of filling them out completly. I did it once on a 3 cylinder and the result was terrifying (added stress on everything), so I've swapped it out with a new one.
I'd replicate the shape of the rubber bushing. I have a kit but at $150 per mount I'm not sure to invest the time and mess involved...
Too bad that the front one can't be inspected without removing a lot of parts...
I'd replicate the shape of the rubber bushing. I have a kit but at $150 per mount I'm not sure to invest the time and mess involved...
Too bad that the front one can't be inspected without removing a lot of parts...
Front or rear usually go first. Side ones are typically ok. IIRC, OEM NSX-R mounts are still available. Slightly stiffer, but nowhere near a urethane fill.
One can use windshield polyurethane in a tube. There is a bunch of DIY's on Youtube or your favorite search engine.
It does make the mount a lot stiffer and I have yet to do it on my NSX. However, paying +US$350 for a mount is a bit rough, SOS offers a rebuild for about $200.
The commercial sealant used to seal between large glass panes might also be a viable candidate. Or possibly just fill the bottom half of the existing mount.
It does make the mount a lot stiffer and I have yet to do it on my NSX. However, paying +US$350 for a mount is a bit rough, SOS offers a rebuild for about $200.
The commercial sealant used to seal between large glass panes might also be a viable candidate. Or possibly just fill the bottom half of the existing mount.
NSX (NA1 MT)
Front: 50840-SL0-000
Rear: 50810-SL0-010
Left: 50805-SL0-010
Right: 50820-SL0-000
NSX-R (NA1)
Front: 50840-SL0-900
Rear: 50810-SL0-900
Left: 50805-SL0-010
Right: 50820-SL0-000
It should be noted that the Type R mounts are the same price, or cheaper, than the standard mounts.
https://jp-carparts.com/honda/part_...type=NSX&cartype=19680&fig=B&fig1=4700&fig2=2
US$200. (US$1:JPY¥108)
https://jp-carparts.com/honda/part_...type=NSX&cartype=19680&fig=B&fig1=4700&fig2=2
US$200. (US$1:JPY¥108)
From Amayama (typically much cheaper than jp-carparts) it's about $600 for 4 OEM mounts (including Type R which are the same price), which is honestly a lot cheaper than I would have expected. I'll probably buy a set in the near future just in case I need them.
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- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
Thanks very much for the part no. of the Type R engine mounts.
In Japan, they are less than half of the price in the US and at $150 a piece I won't experiment with poly fillings if I only change the front and rear ones. A boosted car might better go with the Type R ones, more weight, more torque.
Ordered.
In Japan, they are less than half of the price in the US and at $150 a piece I won't experiment with poly fillings if I only change the front and rear ones. A boosted car might better go with the Type R ones, more weight, more torque.
Ordered.
Did you receive the Type R mounts? Pictures, comparison?
FWIW: I have two sets of old mounts in the garage, only the front mount was worn and torn out of the set.
FWIW: I have two sets of old mounts in the garage, only the front mount was worn and torn out of the set.
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
Installed the Type R ones. I see no visual difference at all. I guess the rubber is different then, hard to check by hand. There's a yellow dot on the new ones. Both old ones were very good after 28 years BUT I don't run headers and don't abuse my car either. I didn't start the car yet, so no info about vibration. I've torqued them in the sequence according to the SM and should be good with it.
One final edit: There is less vibration when the engine just revs with the car not moving. Also, the sometimes annoying stlight clutch judder under certain circumstances is reduced by quite a lot. It looks as if the resonance frequency drifted a little bit from the source. So, I'm also happy with that because I feared the opposite.
And the very last comment about them: at 80+ mph miles my rear end was a little bit unstable for a fraction of a second in transition (let the throttle off or go on it while it was in fuel cut before). Solved too.
One final edit: There is less vibration when the engine just revs with the car not moving. Also, the sometimes annoying stlight clutch judder under certain circumstances is reduced by quite a lot. It looks as if the resonance frequency drifted a little bit from the source. So, I'm also happy with that because I feared the opposite.
And the very last comment about them: at 80+ mph miles my rear end was a little bit unstable for a fraction of a second in transition (let the throttle off or go on it while it was in fuel cut before). Solved too.
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