YEA! Thanks to NSXBill2 saying he was successful with his cheapo impact wrench, I continued to hit the axle nut daily with PB Blaster and kept trying my electric impact. It finally came loose today (after already ordering both the 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar). So, the operation starts later in the week. :biggrin:
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I Could use Experienced Advice on Replacing Drivers Side Axle
- Thread starter pgilliam1
- Start date
You are welcome! When I originally had doubts that my cheapo impact would work, Larry talked me into trying it and zip!...off came the nut. Now...good luck getting the axle out of the hub
Bill
You are welcome! When I originally had doubts that my cheapo impact would work, Larry talked me into trying it and zip!...off came the nut. Now...good luck getting the axle out of the hub
Bill
Like you, Larry has informed me to hit the axle splines with PB Blaster and I'm taking his advice. But in his experienced words, "some come loose - some don't." I'll take good luck - Thanks again!
- Joined
- 23 June 2006
- Messages
- 201
I'm sorry I'm just now seeing this thread. I have a 3/4" drive Craftsman breaker bar, a couple of 3/4" extensions, and a Snap-On 3/4" to 1/2" impact reducer... but it sounds as though you've already broken the nut loose. I bought them a few years ago for exactly the same nut on another Honda... I have lots of tools, hit me up if you ever need anything else! Good luck!
Dave
Dave
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Thanks for the offer. I just added you to my contacts :biggrin: .
I completed the operation today and was successful (5 hrs. & $90 later - not counting new tools). I'd like to add a few points to others trying this job:
- No need to disconnect any brake lines. Just remove the E-Brake frame mounting point bolts for some slack.
- Remove the strut completely (even though I removed the lower strut bolt, the strut was still in the way). I tried for 45 minutes to remove the axle and couldn't get it out of the tranny. After removing the strut, it slid right out.
- As Larry mentioned, have a replacement axle seal on hand. Thanks Larry, I did nick the seal (it's very easy to replace).
- The Master Pro axle was a quality part and it was NEW, not rebuilt.
- Have an impact wrench. Even my electric was a big help especially with the bolts holding the lower control arm.
- Hit all the bolts to be removed with PB Blaster a couple of times, a couple of days before surgery.
- Don't try to loosen the axle nut with 1/2" drive anything, except an 1/2" drive impact wrench (if your using brute strength use only 3/4" drive).
Thanks to all for your input and Happy Motoring!
- No need to disconnect any brake lines. Just remove the E-Brake frame mounting point bolts for some slack.
- Remove the strut completely (even though I removed the lower strut bolt, the strut was still in the way). I tried for 45 minutes to remove the axle and couldn't get it out of the tranny. After removing the strut, it slid right out.
- As Larry mentioned, have a replacement axle seal on hand. Thanks Larry, I did nick the seal (it's very easy to replace).
- The Master Pro axle was a quality part and it was NEW, not rebuilt.
- Have an impact wrench. Even my electric was a big help especially with the bolts holding the lower control arm.
- Hit all the bolts to be removed with PB Blaster a couple of times, a couple of days before surgery.
- Don't try to loosen the axle nut with 1/2" drive anything, except an 1/2" drive impact wrench (if your using brute strength use only 3/4" drive).
Thanks to all for your input and Happy Motoring!
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
I'm not sure if I did it wrong, but i had to remove the strut too, and even then it didn't want to come out. I couldn't move the hub enough to clear the axle from the transmission. I did eventually get it out with a 3 foot pry bar, I ruined the oil seal in the process though because i got the axle almost out and it sat pinned against the seal. I'm thinking about pulling a ball joint apart to get it back in unless someone has any idea what i might have done wrong. I think i could also unbolt the upper control arm from the chassis it looked like 4 bolts might be a lot easier than working the ball joints.
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Don't take the ball joints apart or the upper control arm. Did you remove the stabilizer bar mount? Are you removing the axle from the tranny first? There must be something holding the hub from swinging clear. My axle had plenty of room to come out and did so easily once the strut was removed.
Good Luck!
+1 Bet its the sway bar
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
The whole strut was removed I didn't reattach the sway bar lol. However....I kept the toe arm attached to the chassis i think this was my mistake. I thought the upper control arm and toe arm had to stay attached, but i guess not. Thanks for the help. Now im having trouble getting the reverse idle gear shaft assembly out of the clutch housing, any ideas on that one lol.
Edit: I got the reverse idle gear shaft out, just had to lift a bit more on the countershaft and mainshaft to clear it.
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Remember this for the installation. Shim both main and counter shafts with a shim, then slide in the reverse gearset
. Be careful you get the reverse gear shaft sitting properly and the guide pin in place correctly.HTH,
LarryB
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
Remember this for the installation. Shim both main and counter shafts with a shim, then slide in the reverse gearset
HTH,
LarryB
I'm going to use your trick of engaging a couple gears at the same time to lock the shaft's together in the box. What size socket is the countershaft nut? I thought my 36mm would fit, but it didn't, i guess it might be a 38mm or 40mm? I don't have a spare case to cut open so I'm going to toss 6-8 zip tires around the shafts to hold them together, is there a better way to hold them together? I don't want to put too much stress on the case.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
41mm or 1 5/8" for the counter shaft nut.
