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I have Drew's abs bleeder tool
- Thread starter Cal
- Start date
NSX~PERT I'll send you a PM w/my address. Also I second that, anybody w/any tips or suggestions to make it quicker or easier please chime in.
- Joined
- 14 April 2002
- Messages
- 2,273
I got your tips right here!!! 
Just did mine for the first time. Pretty easy and took about 1.5 hours. Then I realized 1) I screwed it up (ABS light came on) and 2) I didn't read the directions and 3) I didn't realize I had everything minus the fluid to do the job!
:redface:
So here are the tips that might help some of you:
1) Like Rago - it is in there!: I got the DanOLand instructions in the box and the first thing it said was to setup and install a small wired switch. I didn't have any of that stuff so off to radio shack where I killed a 1/2 hour buying a bunch of stuff to make a switch to activate the pump to clear the solenoids. Guess what - when boxing it back up I found the switch was already in the box with the tool!!! The only 2 things you need are a turkey baster and the brake fluid to do the job right.
2) It is just like bleeding your brakes!: OK - this is obvious now but wasn't to me when reading this. I thought you just suck out the fluid with the baster, turn the tool to evac the rest of the fluid, run the pump for 30 seconds, filler back up - and done! WRONG!!!
The basic steps are:
1-Turkey baster the fluid and fill back up
2-Evac the fluid by turning open and then back closed
3-Fill the overflow all the way
4-Run the pump for 30 seconds
and repeat steps 2,3,and 4 several times (like 4 times) to make sure you have 100% clean and new brake fluid throughout.
3) Catch as catch can!: Put something UNDER the bleed valve as it will leak some of the brake fluid on whatever is under your car. A couple rags should do it.
4) The first time you release the bleed valve be ready to close it quickly as there is more fluid then the "tool" will hold. You don't want it dumping out the top and all over your paint as brake fluid is up there with sulfuric acid for things to keep off the paint.
5) I know this is counter intuitive for a guy but read the instructions 1x before you start. It is well documented but if you try to do it step by step you will probably mess it up like I did.
That's about it for tips. After I saw the light for ABS and realized what I did wrong I only had a few mins to redo the whole procedure. I was able to do it right this time in less then 10 mins (probably closer to 5). It was VERY simple the 2nd time and it made me want to buy the tool and do it for any friend for free.
Just did mine for the first time. Pretty easy and took about 1.5 hours. Then I realized 1) I screwed it up (ABS light came on) and 2) I didn't read the directions and 3) I didn't realize I had everything minus the fluid to do the job!
:redface:
So here are the tips that might help some of you:
1) Like Rago - it is in there!: I got the DanOLand instructions in the box and the first thing it said was to setup and install a small wired switch. I didn't have any of that stuff so off to radio shack where I killed a 1/2 hour buying a bunch of stuff to make a switch to activate the pump to clear the solenoids. Guess what - when boxing it back up I found the switch was already in the box with the tool!!! The only 2 things you need are a turkey baster and the brake fluid to do the job right.
2) It is just like bleeding your brakes!: OK - this is obvious now but wasn't to me when reading this. I thought you just suck out the fluid with the baster, turn the tool to evac the rest of the fluid, run the pump for 30 seconds, filler back up - and done! WRONG!!!
The basic steps are:
1-Turkey baster the fluid and fill back up
2-Evac the fluid by turning open and then back closed
3-Fill the overflow all the way
4-Run the pump for 30 seconds
and repeat steps 2,3,and 4 several times (like 4 times) to make sure you have 100% clean and new brake fluid throughout.
3) Catch as catch can!: Put something UNDER the bleed valve as it will leak some of the brake fluid on whatever is under your car. A couple rags should do it.
4) The first time you release the bleed valve be ready to close it quickly as there is more fluid then the "tool" will hold. You don't want it dumping out the top and all over your paint as brake fluid is up there with sulfuric acid for things to keep off the paint.
5) I know this is counter intuitive for a guy but read the instructions 1x before you start. It is well documented but if you try to do it step by step you will probably mess it up like I did.
That's about it for tips. After I saw the light for ABS and realized what I did wrong I only had a few mins to redo the whole procedure. I was able to do it right this time in less then 10 mins (probably closer to 5). It was VERY simple the 2nd time and it made me want to buy the tool and do it for any friend for free.
Awesome thanks for the tips, that's gonna be a huge help.
I'd like to add my name to the list. Is anyone keeping track? Who has it/where is it now??
matteni- mahalo for posting the tips.
matteni- mahalo for posting the tips.
I believe this is the list (as of 7/20):
Matteni
NSXPERT
Jim jr
1BADNSX
95 Cruzer
Daedalus
NSXBill2
kkim
Matteni
NSXPERT
Jim jr
1BADNSX
95 Cruzer
Daedalus
NSXBill2
kkim
May I add my name as well? Maybe I'll do an ABS bleed party at my place.
Matteni
NSXPERT
Jim jr
1BADNSX
95 Cruzer
Daedalus
NSXBill2
kkim
ak
Maybe I'll do an ABS bleed party at my place.Matteni
NSXPERT
Jim jr
1BADNSX
95 Cruzer
Daedalus
NSXBill2
kkim
ak
Add me to the list too.
:frown:
:frown:
I just sent it out yesterday to 1BADNSX. He should receive it by Tuesday UPS Ground.
Add my name to the list.
Matteni
NSXPERT
Jim jr
1BADNSX
95 Cruzer
Daedalus
NSXBill2
kkim
ak
Hal_396
Matteni
NSXPERT
Jim jr
1BADNSX
95 Cruzer
Daedalus
NSXBill2
kkim
ak
Hal_396
OK, I just finished the flush and will be sending the tool to 95 CUZER.
Some thoughts:
I found the system easier to flush without the tool. The nipple interface between the tool and the bleed valve leaked and was messy. Instead I just used some plastic hose similar to what you bleed your brakes with and a 9 mm wrench. I ran the hose to a canister (Newman’s Own pasta jar is highly recommended) to catch the bleed fluid. See the photo below.
So you could do this job without the bleed tool. The electronic switch that comes with the tool is nice to run the pump, but that could be rigged with two pieces of wire and tapping into the connectors as Dano explains in his write-up:
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm
I hope this helps,
Bob
Some thoughts:
I found the system easier to flush without the tool. The nipple interface between the tool and the bleed valve leaked and was messy. Instead I just used some plastic hose similar to what you bleed your brakes with and a 9 mm wrench. I ran the hose to a canister (Newman’s Own pasta jar is highly recommended) to catch the bleed fluid. See the photo below.
So you could do this job without the bleed tool. The electronic switch that comes with the tool is nice to run the pump, but that could be rigged with two pieces of wire and tapping into the connectors as Dano explains in his write-up:
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm
I hope this helps,
Bob
Attachments
Hey Bob aka 1bad--I could not fit either an 8 or 9mm box end wrench over the bleed screw which is square in my 1993--12 pt. Ditto for 6pt sockets in 8 and 9 and the 10 was too large. (Using the open end wrench on the 8mm gets around the square tightly but only from a vertical position (and thus would have to loosen first if not too tight and then quickly put on the hose)
Anyone know where my ABS tool is? I lent it out a few years ago and no longer have it. Anyway, if someone knows where mine is located (like in their garage) then they can ship it to the next person on the list.
DanO
DanO
jrehner said:
Yes, the nipple has a square fitting, but my 9 mm wrench fit it nicely. My wrench must have a thinner wall than yours. You might try grinding the outside of the wrench slightly where it is interfering with the housing.
Dano, I’m not sure which unit is yours. I sent the unit to 95 CRUZER and he received it on 31 Aug.
Bob
Bob aka 1bad--My 12pt 9mm will not fit over the fitting and there is sufficient room for it to do so. I also tried a thin wall 12pt 9mm socket at Napa and it would not fit... The only thing that fits is the open end of my 8mm wrench (from a vertical position). Napa had no 6 point box 9mm box end wrench and so I could not try that... Can u check the wrench u used to see if it is something other than a 12pt box end?
HAS anyone else posting on this thread tried to get a 9mm box end over the square fitting?
HAS anyone else posting on this thread tried to get a 9mm box end over the square fitting?
I have now done what I can without the bleeder tool which it looks like I will have to get as there is no such animal as a 8mm square socket or box end. A 12 pt 3/8 box end will fit with difficulty over the bleed fitting but it slips on the fitting. As I said before 6pt metric sockets do not fit and I could get no box end to fit in metric. It costs too much to make a socket or box end from scratch...
Any way, I made up the switch for the motor relay to the pump and used a momentary switch for the selinoids. I had orange fluid to begin with which I sucked and wiped out and then milky white fluid after operating each selenoid and got rid of all that. ONE time when operating the pump the clean fluid began to be sucked down into the accumulator but only once. Typically running the pump and at the same time clicking the temp selenoid switch caused the bad stuff to come out. STILL have same problem of anti-lock light most likely because I have been unable to bleed the high pressure side using the bleed nipple... I don't keep the motor relay in but the anti-lock light still comes on (but I hear no motor noise at least). AND now the rim of the resevoir (can't spell that word) tank is failing.. Hopefully, that plastic component can be replaced by itself...
Any way, I made up the switch for the motor relay to the pump and used a momentary switch for the selinoids. I had orange fluid to begin with which I sucked and wiped out and then milky white fluid after operating each selenoid and got rid of all that. ONE time when operating the pump the clean fluid began to be sucked down into the accumulator but only once. Typically running the pump and at the same time clicking the temp selenoid switch caused the bad stuff to come out. STILL have same problem of anti-lock light most likely because I have been unable to bleed the high pressure side using the bleed nipple... I don't keep the motor relay in but the anti-lock light still comes on (but I hear no motor noise at least). AND now the rim of the resevoir (can't spell that word) tank is failing.. Hopefully, that plastic component can be replaced by itself...
1bad---I finally got the bleed nipple open using the open end 8mm upright with a wrench on that--really loud snap when it broke loose.. no extreme pressure however probably because I had again piddled around with the selenoids. Only operation of one selenoid caused any milky substance to come out this time.. No effect operating the other 3... The pump did not seem to want to draw any fluid back into the accumulator however. I hooked everything back up and turned on the ignition and now the ABS comes on at startup and stays on--(oops--I hooked one of the selenoids up wrong and after I corrected the the light went off after startup). Light still comes on after I go down the road for 120 seconds with the pump going all the while. Have been told that after a few startups that should stop if the bleeding worked....
Last edited:
And mine.
RC51NSXHal_396 said:
Received it today from 95 Cruzer (THANKS!). I may not be able to get to it until this weekend, but I'll have it shipped out early next week. NSXBill2, please PM me your address.
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