I need to remove rotor but about to give up!

[junior40er]

I need to remove front rotor so I can remove hub and then pull off brake heat shield. But those 2 screws holding rotor down wont budge. I've blast it with PB blaster so many times past couple days and I am seriously thinking about drilling them out but I wont know where to get 2 new screws.


Any ideas?


Pic.

 

[AdvansCPAP]

Tried this? BTW, did you get the horn to work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

 

[ekhonda87]

There is an impact style screwdriver. You hit the end of the screw driver with a hammer, and that is translated into a rotational force, loosening the screw. Most auto parts stores have these.

Also, those screws are not needed. If you drill them out, you dont have to put the screws back in.

 

[nsxot1c]

Tried this? BTW, did you get the horn to work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

There is an impact style screwdriver. You hit the end of the screw driver with a hammer, and that is translated into a rotational force, loosening the screw. Most auto parts stores have these.

This and this ^^... Also a Small hand held propane torch worst case scenario.

If not, drilling them out and replacing with new is another possibility if you have to.

 

[R13]

I tried the impact driver thing and actually bent a phillips bit.

Honestly, just drill the heads off of them, thread a small bolt into the other hole to pop the rotor off of the hub, then use some locking pliers to remove the screw stubs (or cut them flush), and do not replace the stupid set screws when you put the new rotors on so you don't have to drill anything the next time.

Those things are assembly aids only, and serve no real function otherwise.

 

[junior40er]

Tried this? BTW, did you get the horn to work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

No I didnt. It seems there was n o way to run wire THROUGH the hub to get to horn button?
Thanks for link, getting one today.

There is an impact style screwdriver. You hit the end of the screw driver with a hammer, and that is translated into a rotational force, loosening the screw. Most auto parts stores have these.

Also, those screws are not needed. If you drill them out, you dont have to put the screws back in.

Thanks, I might just do that.

I tried the impact driver thing and actually bent a phillips bit.

Honestly, just drill the heads off of them, thread a small bolt into the other hole to pop the rotor off of the hub, then use some locking pliers to remove the screw stubs (or cut them flush), and do not replace the stupid set screws when you put the new rotors on so you don't have to drill anything the next time.

Those things are assembly aids only, and serve no real function otherwise.

I knew that was true with my CRX but wasnt so sure on the NSX. I will try impact thing first, if it doesnt work then I will be drilling it out.

 

[junior40er]

BTW, whats best way to clean corrosion off rotor and studs? WD-40?

 

[RYU]

The best $7 you will ever spend.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

 

[AdvansCPAP]

You don't run any wire through the hub. The wire hooks up to a brass horn shoe pictured below, just like the one I emailed a link to. The horn shoe you purchase will make constant contact with the base of your hub when you turn the steering wheel. You run a small grounding wire from the horn button to the horn button retainer ring or wedge it between the hub and steering wheel.

 

[shawn110975]

one trick is to use a screwdriver you dont care about and get a metal hammer and bang the shit out of it. like your tring to push the screwdriver thru the screw.

this banging will loosen the rust after about 5 hard bangs try turning the screw with your good screwdriver should turn with ease.

if you dont have an impact driver that is.
if you have an impact driver make sure its set to the correct direction.
if you dont one bang with a hammer and it will break the screw tip into a million pieces LOL trust me I did this 3 times till I learned the hard way

 

[junior40er]

Louis..OK, where can that be purchased from? Now that piece takes care of ground right? What about common?

Because as far as I understand, there are two wires to make horn work. One end off horn button goes to Horn common (which I cant find) and other end goes to ground. Correct?

 

[junior40er]

one trick is to use a screwdriver you dont care about and get a metal hammer and bang the shit out of it. like your tring to push the screwdriver thru the screw.

this banging will loosen the rust after about 5 hard bangs try turning the screw with your good screwdriver should turn with ease.

if you dont have an impact driver that is.
if you have an impact driver make sure its set to the correct direction.
if you dont one bang with a hammer and it will break the screw tip into a million pieces LOL trust me I did this 3 times till I learned the hard way

I tried that with no luck. impact screwdriver is what I will buy in a bit and try that.

 

[AdvansCPAP]

Louis..OK, where can that be purchased from? - at the honda dealer 35259-SH3-A02

Now that piece takes care of ground right? - No, let me clear it up better since I forgot about the other horn button wire (as there are two of them on the button)

What about common? - 2 connectors coming off horn button: run a wire from one of those tabs to ground on the big nut holding the hub (this is your common ground).

The other connection from the horn button goes to the tab on the horn button retainer ring. This is your power. It will get power from the shoe horn that is connected to the one horn wire from the yellow harness.

 

[junior40er]

Oh OK, much more clear.
I will push that to the last in my list since I need to get rest of stuff done quick.
So I dont need any wires from this harness, right?

Thanks Louis. Im glad to have you around here.

 

[Honcho]

I feel your pain. The day before NSXPO HPDE I needed to install new rotors and pads. I tried PB blaster, impact screwdriver (bent the bit heads), big screwdriver + hammer, and finally a chisel for HOURS. Nothing. Finally, I just drilled the heads off with a 3/8" bit- it literally took about 60 seconds. Just do it and forget about the screws- they are only there as an assembly aid to make it easier to fit the brake caliper over the rotor.

I had to use a 8mm bolt to pop the rotor off of the hub. Mine were practically glued on with about 12 years of rust. Just thread it into the provided hole and you will hear a loud bang when the rotor breaks free. Easy. I used a drill and wire brush to clean up the hub face before reassembly.

 

[surferX]

Also, you don't need to remove any of that to remove the rotor & hub together. You only need to remove those screws if you are changing your rotors or working on the hub itself. If you're just trying to get to the dust shield or the knuckle, you can just remove the four 10mm self locking nuts on the back side of the knuckle from the hub. Then your hub and rotor come off in one piece. It will save you quite a bit of time if you're just trying to get to your dust shield. I just did this to remove my knuckle and lower control arms. Time saver!

 

[junior40er]

Thanks. I feel much better knowing that just like CRX they are there just for ease of assembly.

 

[junior40er]

Also, you don't need to remove any of that to remove the rotor & hub together. You only need to remove those screws if you are changing your rotors or working on the hub itself. If you're just trying to get to the dust shield or the knuckle, you can just remove the four 10mm self locking nuts on the back side of the knuckle from the hub. Then your hub and rotor come off in one piece. It will save you quite a bit of time if you're just trying to get to your dust shield. I just did this to remove my knuckle and lower control arms. Time saver!

hhmm That might be better.

Besides removing heat shield I will be installing brake pads, changing out brakes lines and bleeding brakes.

 

[silver2002]

The Harbor Freight impact driver broke on me, it's light weight - Bought one for about 14.00 at PEP boys that was much better built and worked- as a fall back Sears had one for about 21.00 [ these both came with bits too] - I held it [driver] in Vise Grips and gave it a steady whack with a heavy mallet - screws came out - I used anti sieze when I replaced them.

I need to remove front rotor so I can remove hub and then pull off brake heat shield. But those 2 screws holding rotor down wont budge. I've blast it with PB blaster so many times past couple days and I am seriously thinking about drilling them out but I wont know where to get 2 new screws.


Any ideas?


Pic.

 

[ralph cerbone]

When it comes to impact drivers you cannot rely on HF or sears . You should buy one from snap on , their bits are TOUGH not HARDENED. A hardened bit will shatter , tough bits are more like chisel stock. I use a snap on driver also Ihave a set of custom made bits . This is the only tool that will remove engine covers from old Triumph and BSA motorcycles.

 

[davidf]

A few years back I chiseled mine off. Went down to Ace hardware, bought 4 identical screws but in stainless and put a dab of anti-seize and reinstalled.
They do not need to be re-tightened very tight.

 

[canieaturchikn]

At work we use air powered rivet guns with a screw buster attachment. You put an apex bit on the screw buster and put it on the rivet gun. Hook up air and insert bit onto screw. Push with moderate force and hit the trigger simultaneously turning the screw buster handle counter clockwise. Gets it out no sweat!

 

[Moses]

Impact screw driver, chisel, or left handed drill bits.

 

[surferX]

hhmm That might be better.

Besides removing heat shield I will be installing brake pads, changing out brakes lines and bleeding brakes.

You don't need to separate the rotors from the hub for any of those tasks unless you plan on having them turned for the new pads.

 

[junior40er]

With advice from you and everyone else I am proceeding without removing rotors. Ill get to that whenever new rotors go in and that will be a while.

Today I replaced both front brake lines. Tomorowor monday I will do rears and remove brake shield as well as install cf brake ducts.

Then whenever I get my pads and fluis from KoukiMonster I will do pads and rears.