i think i broke my belt..... help

[NSXRguy]

heres some pics from this morning

videos of startup



couple of questions... how loose is my timing belt based from the pics above? is that normal or definitely loose?

 

[Tony Montoya]

I guess irony is lost on some folks :biggrin:

The engine is made of aluminium, not iron.:smile:

 

[goldNSX]

how loose is my timing belt based from the pics above? is that normal or definitely loose?

We don't see with how much pressure you were pulling. Well this is not the area to check the tension anyway.

Your TB looks a little bit old to me, just seeing the pattern on it, ok I only saw three of them in my lifetime. The teeth we see are ok at first sight.

BTW having the cover off DID you check the timing on the front head?

 

[goldNSX]

Showing us the sticky finger, right? :tongue:

 

[ralph cerbone]

i have not done this test on a nsx but i dont see why it wont work,to check the valve event (proper timing)on any stock naturally aspirated engine all you do is a CRANKING VACUUM TEST, make sure throttle is closed, plug breather hose to valvecover,put vacuum gauge to direct manifold supply(on my 97 that would be throttle body hose #7--- map signal line. kill fuel system,crank engine ,the eng. should pull at least 3" of vac. most engines will pull 5",if not you most likley have a valve timing problem,I realize your eng is F/I but i think the results will be the same,hope this helps,much easier than pulling covers &comp.test

 

[SuperSonic]

That sucks to hear. I dont know enough about the belts to say if it was or was not, but the same thing happened on my other car. Was turning and suddenly the car went boom then the gas started to die out, so i gave it more then it slowly just died down to a stop. It would crank over but not turn on. The mechanic said the belt blew, and luckly the pistons did not blow through the hood (it was a ford, it could happen). I want to say the car had about 97xxx on it at the time though, was a 95. Good luck with your fix.

 

[NSXRguy]

i got some bad news

did the compression test on the front bank and it was 130psi on all 3 cylinders :frown:

im guessing my timing is off? timing belt jumped? according to larry, a bent valve would give 0psi so... i guess i probably didnt bend any on the front?

ive yet to do a compression test for the rear bank... any guesses on what they would be???

 

[Miner]

i got some bad news

did the compression test on the front bank and it was 130psi on all 3 cylinders :frown:

im guessing my timing is off? timing belt jumped? according to larry, a bent valve would give 0psi so... i guess i probably didnt bend any on the front?

ive yet to do a compression test for the rear bank... any guesses on what they would be???

130 psi sounds fairly good. Low but good. I think you need to look at the back bank to verify. I won't even begin to estimate what the values will be.

A previous poster commented that with your front cover off, you can turn the crank to TDC and you should be able to view the timing marks on the cam pulleys. If I remember, the marks on the inboard side of the cam pulley.

Miner

 

[PhiAlpha44]

My guess is you didn't blow the T-Belt. Sounds like you blew the 15 amp fuse inline with the fuel pump, which is part of the Comptech boost-a-pump wiring. It's behind the driver's seat, on the firewall, in a black fuse holder.
All the best,
Chris

Did you see this post and check to make sure this isn't the case? That happened to me before. Driving on the highway and it was like someone turned the light switch off to my motor.

 

[drew]

Sounds like you got very lucky! 130 sounds like 2 skipped teeth.

Therefore, a timing belt is in order: Go ahead and order up the parts, tools [if needed] and reindex the crank/cams. Prior to full assembly, do another compression or leak down test to ensure that no valves are bent.

Make sure you order up the pump kit WITH the included shields, it is much more inexpensive that way.

With any luck your MIL is not a CEL (change engine light). Did you talk to the candle like I suggested? If not, now is a good time


**

To the Irony/Aluminumy guy:

I know my CEL came on and it was OBII and the engine computer told me via codes what it was. Our NSXs just have another name for the same thing.

No, your MIL came on. MIL is the standardized term for this indicator light on any OBDII vehicle, not just the NSX.

Drew

 

[EdinKali]

Make sure you are holding the throttle open when you do the compression test or you may get abnormally low readings.

 

[stevetwors]

i got some bad news

did the compression test on the front bank and it was 130psi on all 3 cylinders :frown:

im guessing my timing is off? timing belt jumped? according to larry, a bent valve would give 0psi so... i guess i probably didnt bend any on the front?

ive yet to do a compression test for the rear bank... any guesses on what they would be???

sounds like you didn't do the compression test correctly because you said you did it on the front bank only. you need to have ALL spark plugs removed, disconnect the wire connector for the fuel injectors (pass side of engine bay), screw your gauge into one of the spark plug holes, get in the car and floor the gas pedal and crank it over for like 3-4 seconds.

if you dont have all plugs removed, and if you dont have wide open throttle, you will get a low reading.

 

[chudson1549]

You said the car did not start and lost power...Did you check the fuse to the fuel pump behind your head on the firewall. It's a 30amp mini fuse that comes with the comptech. Ask me how I know about that fuse....See if it's blown. If it is...replace it the car should start.
Sounds like the same thing that happened to me. 100% throttle 2nd-3rd or 3rd to 4th then dead motor...I have a new timing belt and thought it was not installed right. Come to find out when the work was done one of the SC connectors was not pushed in all the way..

EDIT. Just saw the video. Check that fuse. Did you hear the fuel pump? Looks like no pressure to the system.

HTH Charles

 

[goldNSX]

The thread gets really funny.

1. He DOES have fuel pressure. Have a look in the video and read the OP post. Therefore the fuse sould be ok.

2. The OP likes ot work on the front bank only.

3. and now something constructive: 130 psi equal on all 3 cylinders (however it has been measured) is a good sign because it's equal overall. Hitting a valve would result in 0 on one or more cylinders or result in a much higher variance.

Check compression again (in a correct way).

 

[ralph cerbone]

sounds like throttle was closed,car is dbw, make sure throttle is wide open,
crank vac. test would have given you a clear picture yesterday

 

[s14_tat]

I usually do a compression with the engine at operating temp and at wide open throttle. This way i know for a fact that the internals are expanded to their tightest tolerance and should match the oem specs for the compression numbers.

since your engine does not start, i would just look to see if the numbers are even across the board, and so far the signs look good.

 

[NSXRguy]

Im suspecting my ignition system crapped out

while i was cranking thr car i do build fuel pressure and i could smell the gas from the spark plug holes.

How common does the ignitor or other ignition related parts fail completely? Ignition switch problem?

I will do the compression test again in the morning with the throttle plate open to check for true compression. I forgot that my dbw wont fully open the plate while its off. Larry knows and so far so good regarding any possible engine damage

 

[drew]

Heck, at this point check the Main Relay. The MR powers the ECU, pump and a couple of other things [I don't have a diagram handy]....make sure you have power to them too. If the ignition switch was bad it wouldn't crank and the instruments would be dim.

I've now moved to Ralphs camp (again). Make sure you pull the fuel pump to minimized your chances of a nice engine compartment fire.

Once you get the engine fired up, it is ripe for a timing belt change and just keep going.

 

[NSXRguy]

Ok so i got the car started and running like normal

i tried spraying igniter fluid in and it did nothing so i knew i had no spark. Decided to tinker around a bit more and disconnected n reconnect my ignitor wires and boom she started haha

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Ok so i got the car started and running like normal

i tried spraying igniter fluid in and it did nothing so i knew i had no spark. Decided to tinker around a bit more and disconnected n reconnect my ignitor wires and boom she started haha

Well this is good news for now.

But....There is definately an issue and it will be back, so you really need to find if a connection with the ignitor is bad, bend, dirty, etc.

Check EVERY wire individually. Unfortunately with the blower you will need to remove it (really raise it up a few inches)to get the ignitor out if needed.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[Big_D]

So I hope you plan on changing your timing belt after all this. Then you won't have to wonder and worry about it.

 

[NSXRguy]

I have the autorotor larry. My ignitor is sitting right on the blower hehe

put me in for a timing belt change larry

 

[NSXRguy]

I have the autorotor larry. My ignitor is sitting right on the blower hehe

put me in for a timing belt change larry

i think ill buy a new ignitor anyway shes old enough for a change

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Duh, you are right, CT moved the ignitor with the new blower, I forgot about that:redface:

Regards,
LarryB

 

[socalx]

Everyone pls reread post 7
haha