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I'm going to get bored with 6Psi CTSC

Joined
2 August 2007
Messages
763
Location
Queensland Australia
Not yet but I know the high boost upgrade for the Whipple SC will be just around the corner.
So over the next few month I am going to slowly gather the parts I need. Can someone confirm this check list, and if you have any of these bits laying around can you let me know ?

Injectors > How many cc ?
AEM
Walbro Fuel Pump > Which One ??
I have the Pully and belt
Do I need wideband O2's

What am I missing here :confused:

Also the stock clutch worries me, is it going to hold up with high boost ? It seems very good with 6 PSi , I've not had it slip once. If I have to get a stronger clutch I think the project will have to wait a while.
Any thoughts guys ?

Ta
 
Injectors > How many cc ?
AEM
Walbro Fuel Pump > Which One ??
I have the Pully and belt
Do I need wideband O2's
Ta

440cc to 550cc will be plenty

AEM - OBD1 cars can use either the AEM ECU or the FIC, OBD2 cars the FIC is the choice piece, get the boomslang harness for plug in play of the AEM.

Walbro, may or maynot be needed just yet, unles you have an older car, but I would spend the walbro money on tuning and dyno time, and replace it only if the tuner is running out of fuel, do the 550cc injectors and you will be more likely to be ok on the fuel pump as long as the OEM pump checks out.

O2's are a real good idea for piece of mind, so would a fuel pressure gauge.

If your OEM clutch is still holding then leave it untill it starts slipping, it should hold if it is in good shape, but if you need to replace it look for something a little stronger. Clutch life has to do with driving style and abuse. If you have had a stick on any other car and found yourself going through clutches then you will be buying them in this car as well.

Budget for some Hawk brake pads when the pads you have are done.

One more thing to keep in mind, the Hi-Boost is not going to make near as much of a difference as an intercooler and the AEM with suporting fuel mods. The Hi-Boost does not really make a night and day difference. It will be faster but your butt will get bored of the Hi-Boost faster than it will from the CTSC. The increase in power is there but it is not going to give you any kind of a WOW moment.

Since you have the pulley by all means put it on, but it is hard for me to tell the style of intake you have to see if the intercooler will work, but if you want a WOW after the CTSC starts to feel slow again, look at the intercooler+AEM+Fuel upgrades+Pully. A lot more money but it will put you in close to the 400whp.

Dave
 
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440cc to 550cc will be plenty

AEM - OBD1 cars can use either the AEM ECU or the FIC, OBD2 cars the FIC is the choice piece, get the boomslang harness for plug in play of the AEM.

Walbro, may or maynot be needed just yet, unles you have an older car, but I would spend the walbro money on tuning and dyno time, and replace it only if the tuner is running out of fuel, do the 550cc injectors and you will be more likely to be ok on the fuel pump as long as the OEM pump checks out.

O2's are a real good idea for piece of mind, so would a fuel pressure gauge.

If your OEM clutch is still holding then leave it untill it starts slipping, it should hold if it is in good shape, but if you need to replace it look for something a little stronger. Clutch life has to do with driving style and abuse. If you have had a stick on any other car and found yourself going through clutches then you will be buying them in this car as well.

Budget for some Hawk brake pads when the pads you have are done.

One more thing to keep in mind, the Hi-Boost is not going to make near as much of a difference as an intercooler and the AEM with suporting fuel mods. The Hi-Boost does not really make a night and day difference. It will be faster but your butt will get bored of the Hi-Boost faster than it will from the CTSC. The increase in power is there but it is not going to give you any kind of a WOW moment.

Since you have the pulley by all means put it on, but it is hard for me to tell the style of intake you have to see if the intercooler will work, but if you want a WOW after the CTSC starts to feel slow again, look at the intercooler+AEM+Fuel upgrades+Pully. A lot more money but it will put you in close to the 400whp.

Dave

Thanks for the in depth info , A lot of what I wanted to hear. I remebered I have some injectors here that came with the SC kit, I'm not sure what they are though. I'll get them flow tested and thats half the battle won if they are 440's

1:1 fuel pressure regulator also.

Is this the same as the reg that come with the 6 PSi kit, a blue vortex FPR I think :confused:
With regard to the AEM, can I not do the same with an eprom emulator and my tuning software to remap the stock ecu? However the only limitation is I have not got the ability to Map trace .
 
Thanks for the in depth info , A lot of what I wanted to hear. I remebered I have some injectors here that came with the SC kit, I'm not sure what they are though. I'll get them flow tested and thats half the battle won if they are 440's.

If they are from the CTSC Hi-Boost kit they are most likely 330cc but the only way to know is to have them flow tested.


Is this the same as the reg that come with the 6 PSi kit, a blue vortex FPR I think :confused:
With regard to the AEM, can I not do the same with an eprom emulator and my tuning software to remap the stock ecu? However the only limitation is I have not got the ability to Map trace .

If you have the original OEM Fuel rails prior to the CTSC being installed you can get an adapter from SOS and run the OEM 1:1 regulator, you can run you CTSC regulator but it will require a little more tuning to make it perfect.

You should look at the AEM FIC, it is cheep and effective, easy to tune and will end up costing you less in the long run. Re-mapping the stock ECU is not going to be a practical option, we have to burn chips if you can figure out what to change in the code, you would spend so much time and burn so many chips in the process it is not worth it when a simple plug and play option is available.

Oh, one more thing, the boost-a-pump that was installed with the CTSC will most likely need to be removed once you go to the larger injectors and the AEM, your tuner can tune around the boost-a-pump but it is one more obstical in getting the perfect tune.

Dave
 
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440cc to 550cc will be plenty

AEM - OBD1 cars can use either the AEM ECU or the FIC, OBD2 cars the FIC is the choice piece, get the boomslang harness for plug in play of the AEM.

Walbro, may or maynot be needed just yet, unles you have an older car, but I would spend the walbro money on tuning and dyno time, and replace it only if the tuner is running out of fuel, do the 550cc injectors and you will be more likely to be ok on the fuel pump as long as the OEM pump checks out.

O2's are a real good idea for piece of mind, so would a fuel pressure gauge.

If your OEM clutch is still holding then leave it untill it starts slipping, it should hold if it is in good shape, but if you need to replace it look for something a little stronger. Clutch life has to do with driving style and abuse. If you have had a stick on any other car and found yourself going through clutches then you will be buying them in this car as well.

Budget for some Hawk brake pads when the pads you have are done.

One more thing to keep in mind, the Hi-Boost is not going to make near as much of a difference as an intercooler and the AEM with suporting fuel mods. The Hi-Boost does not really make a night and day difference. It will be faster but your butt will get bored of the Hi-Boost faster than it will from the CTSC. The increase in power is there but it is not going to give you any kind of a WOW moment.

Since you have the pulley by all means put it on, but it is hard for me to tell the style of intake you have to see if the intercooler will work, but if you want a WOW after the CTSC starts to feel slow again, look at the intercooler+AEM+Fuel upgrades+Pully. A lot more money but it will put you in close to the 400whp.

Dave


I totally agree with this post. The difference in HP going to high boost alone is not going to be that noticeable. If you have the money get the Laminova Intercooler also. I would make sure you have a solid tuner for which ever Engine Management system you choose. AEM seems to be the most popular but around here people use the HKS F-Con system. How long have you had the supercharger? I ask this since most people don't even use the full power of their forced induction cars under 90% of driving. If you aren't going to track the car or take it to a 1/4 mile track you won't get to see the power(legally) as much you might hope for. I am in the same predicament but I may hold out for a year and learn to drive the car with the low boost setup first. I want to get the Laminova + high boost parts + HKS F-Conn EMS.
 
I totally agree with this post. The difference in HP going to high boost alone is not going to be that noticeable. If you have the money get the Laminova Intercooler also. I would make sure you have a solid tuner for which ever Engine Management system you choose. AEM seems to be the most popular but around here people use the HKS F-Con system. How long have you had the supercharger? I ask this since most people don't even use the full power of their forced induction cars under 90% of driving. If you aren't going to track the car or take it to a 1/4 mile track you won't get to see the power(legally) as much you might hope for. I am in the same predicament but I may hold out for a year and learn to drive the car with the low boost setup first. I want to get the Laminova + high boost parts + HKS F-Conn EMS.

I can get to use the power 100% whenever I drive as I don't live in a city with traffic etc, and I am considering tracking the car at the Targa Tasmania one day. I think I'm just getting too used of the power. Seeing as going high boost seems be a point of deminishing returns for the money, It may make more sense to sell it up and go with a Lovefab system . Don't get me wrong CTSC is an awesome upgrade from stock, with lovely powerband.

What would I get for the used ctsc $5500 maybe? plus it would be around $2500 to go high boost considering AEM, tuning, Injectors etc.
I'd only be a few few grand off a lovefab Kit wouldn't I ?

Like I said its not something i'm going to rush into , but one day. My real priority ATM I think should be brakes, the stock ones are just scary.



Re-mapping the stock ECU is not going to be a practical option, we have to burn chips if you can figure out what to change in the code, you would spend so much time and burn so many chips in the process it is not worth it when a simple plug and play option is available.

That the point of the emulator, you don't have to keep burning chips as I can do it on the fly with software. I can do Timing, Fuel, Vtec cutoff, rev limiter etc. And after the tune then you burn the chip, like I said though It can't map trace realtime although I am working on some code for that. What more can the AEM do ?

SpTiming.jpg


SPOON.jpg
 
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G'day Ricky
You'll still need all the High boost Items for the Lovefab & More
Injectors, AEM, Fuel pump, Clutch & Intercooler setup.

I'm not sure that a turbo kit would be eligible for Targa Tasmania however I think the CTSC would be ok as they could be factory fitted in the States.

The only problem with the emulator & OEM ECU is that it won't see Boost. Therefore the Fuel & Ignition maps will be a compromise to make it work.

The AEM Piggy back sounds ok, you can still use the OEM ECU & adjust for Boost. Might be a cheaper option than a Standalone ECU.

You have the other injectors I gave you. They might be suitable. they are definately not standard injectors, so they must be bigger but I don't know the size.
As for the Clutch, I could probably get your OEM one Uprated for less than a new clutch.
Water & Methanol injection my be a cheaper alternative than an intercooler setup for the CTSC. I have just fitted one to my Car for under $250.00

Give me a call & we'll have a chat about it.
 
G'day Ricky
You'll still need all the High boost Items for the Lovefab & More
Injectors, AEM, Fuel pump, Clutch & Intercooler setup.

I'm not sure that a turbo kit would be eligible for Targa Tasmania however I think the CTSC would be ok as they could be factory fitted in the States.

The only problem with the emulator & OEM ECU is that it won't see Boost. Therefore the Fuel & Ignition maps will be a compromise to make it work.

The AEM Piggy back sounds ok, you can still use the OEM ECU & adjust for Boost. Might be a cheaper option than a Standalone ECU.

You have the other injectors I gave you. They might be suitable. they are definately not standard injectors, so they must be bigger but I don't know the size.
As for the Clutch, I could probably get your OEM one Uprated for less than a new clutch.
Water & Methanol injection my be a cheaper alternative than an intercooler setup for the CTSC. I have just fitted one to my Car for under $250.00

Give me a call & we'll have a chat about it.

Hi Wayne , I'll do better than give you a call , wanna go for cruise tomorrow, I'm itching. I have to pull my finger out soon and get my car down there to at least test this emulator, we may even be able get some more out of the low boost kit. Your right though stock ECU can't see boost. Targa's going to have to wait until next year anyways , as life insurance won't kick in for a year :biggrin: The Wife has spoken
 
Hi Wayne , I'll do better than give you a call , wanna go for cruise tomorrow, I'm itching. I have to pull my finger out soon and get my car down there to at least test this emulator, we may even be able get some more out of the low boost kit. Your right though stock ECU can't see boost. Targa's going to have to wait until next year anyways , as life insurance won't kick in for a year :biggrin: The Wife has spoken

Unfortunately I'm visiting my parents tomorrow. Next week will probably be ok.
Hoping to put mine back on the dyno this week to test the benefits of the Water/alcohol injection. maybe put some more boost in too.
 
Wow, you are going to do the Targa Tasmania! I just got done watching the Eric Bana movie "Love the Beast" and have new respect for you. That would be sweet to do.

I understand where you are coming from as far as swapping the supercharger for the turbo. However, be warned that a nice high boost SC with the intercooler will be easier to drive on a track than most big turbo systems. The turbo is more fun for straight ahead driving but man, they are harder to control coming out of corners is my experience. The other issue is Turbo cars have more parts and require a vast amount of getting the tuning right so be careful and take your time. It sounds like a fun race so good luck!
 
I understand where you are coming from as far as swapping the supercharger for the turbo. However, be warned that a nice high boost SC with the intercooler will be easier to drive on a track than most big turbo systems. The turbo is more fun for straight ahead driving but man, they are harder to control coming out of corners is my experience. The other issue is Turbo cars have more parts and require a vast amount of getting the tuning right so be careful and take your time. It sounds like a fun race so good luck!
One thing to keep in mind is that the sizing of turbos, header design, y-pipe design, intercooler, etc... all will greatly affect the characteristic of the turbo. It is a very 'involved' system in which changes to any of the above will affect peak power, spool, and most driving characteristics of the turbo. With that in mind, a properly sized and engineered turbo system with similar power to a supercharger, can be just as easy to drive as a supercharger. Some of the GT30 -equipped cars ive driven felt like big-block V8s (like a supercharger), but had higher peak torque and HP in the middle of the powerband, making for a higher area under the curve and useful power in the mid-range.

Anyone can make a Y-pipe and pick a turbo off the shelf, and make power, but in terms of driveability and the characteristics of how the turbo responds is what separates those who know what they are doing to those who just slap together components. Finding this out takes a lot of $ in R&D and testing different setups.

Superchargers are the easiest plug and play setup to go with, but the extreme intake air temperatures (IAT) are hard on the engine in terms of longevity and peak power (power drops off substantially as IAT's increase). A non-intercooled SC is pretty hard on the motor at the track. An intercooled setup helps substantially but under sustained full throttle use like on a track, the AITs are often far higher than most turbo systems with their remotely mounted intercoolers.

For the price of an intercooled supercharger, a well-engineered turbo system will have lower AITs, extremely good response and modulation (like a SC), and will be easier on the motor.


0.02 -Billy
 
Some of the GT30 -equipped cars ive driven felt like big-block V8s (like a supercharger), but had higher peak torque and HP in the middle of the powerband, making for a higher area under the curve and useful power in the mid-range.

Yup, that was my old car setup exactly. Felt exactly like a big V8. Full boost at 3200 RPM and linear up to redline. (Kind of miss that setup :redface:) Too bad Ryland didn't get a chance to drive that setup to compare two different tunes and turbos on the same car. He only drive my current setup which is a bit top heavy.
 
I did ride in that car though, well one of them. What I remember is the power that was early in the powerband was sick but tapered off. Then again that was a different problem entirely as we have discussed(VTEC?) I agree with Billy but getting to that point of driveability is harder than just getting a supercharger with the aftercooler. Tuning is a large part of it too. If you get a turbo and it isn't tuned right it will idle rough and run rich all the time.

If you are Billy Johnson any FI NSX is easy to race on a track. However, if you are Mr. trackmycar 4xperyear than I think it is different. I would be concerned tracking Bryan's car at Spring Mountain with the extreme amount of power/torque he has. It would take some getting used to over time.

For what its worth I like your current setup much, much more than the old turbo setup. I think most will agree you can put the power down better now.
 
I did ride in that car though, well one of them. What I remember is the power that was early in the powerband was sick but tapered off. Then again that was a different problem entirely as we have discussed(VTEC?) I agree with Billy but getting to that point of driveability is harder than just getting a supercharger with the aftercooler. Tuning is a large part of it too. If you get a turbo and it isn't tuned right it will idle rough and run rich all the time.
Tuning is a large part regardless whether it's NA, Turbo or Supercharged. Poor tuning in ALL cases can result in a rough idle (which has nothing to do with turbo or supercharger), and can run rich in all cases whether its due to bad tuning or poor upkeep and location of wideband sensors.

If you are Billy Johnson any FI NSX is easy to race on a track. However, if you are Mr. trackmycar 4xperyear than I think it is different. I would be concerned tracking Bryan's car at Spring Mountain with the extreme amount of power/torque he has. It would take some getting used to over time.
Haha, thank you but not necessarily true. Any well engineered turbo setup can be just as easy to drive as a supercharged car. You are comparing apples to oranges - a 350-450whp supercharger to a 500-600whp turbo.

A 350-450whp turbo (with VTEC working) can be extremely linear like a supercharger, and deliver more mid-range torque and horsepower, more area under the curve, and be easy to drive. However there aren't too many of these lower powered kits out there because everyone wants big numbers from a turbo (which are often not engineered to be very driveable on the track due to lack of attention to detail). I will restate that there is a big difference between a well engineered turbo system (not just tuning, but the engineering of the turbo system) that affects response, driveability, and performance on the track. 2 turbo kits that make the same peak power can vary drastically in how they got the # (boost, response, etc...) and performance/driveability on the track. Again, this is what separates those who design turbo systems, and those who make turbo kits.

If you're looking for supercharger horsepower numbers, you can have the same driveability, and a larger area under the curve, and ***lower Intake Air Temps, and a more reliable setup that dosn't tax the motor as much as a SC.

We have made systems like this before, I have driven them, and have driven the turbocharged NSX-R GT which also had this theme of lower peak horsepower numbers, but extremely driveable, area under the curve, mid-range power that I felt was enough to launch the NSX back into modern supercar territory. Now if you're Vega$NSX (or most people bitten by the bug), you get use to the power level, get greedy, and max the turbo out, then go bigger, then max that turbo out, and its a never ending process.

For those who want to track their cars and aren't comfortable with their skillset to track a 5-600whp monster (can't blame them), then a well engineered lower HP turbo, while not a popular route, IMO is a great option and can be less expensive and more reliable than an intercooled SC.

Now if you're COZ, and have street driven and tracked your SC for years, and wake up to realize you've should have gone with a 500whp turbo years ago, then that may be your route. Stay tuned for his review on said turbo after his first track day.

For what its worth I like your current setup much, much more than the old turbo setup. I think most will agree you can put the power down better now.
Partly due to the better tune, revised turbo lines, and FXMD-tuned SUSPENSION ;)


Billy
 
I agree about the tuning aspect of it however, I think the turbo Bryan had prior to his current setup spooled up really fast and was maxed out around 4k rpms he said. In which case the power hits early no matter the tuning. I think the choice of turbo that you put on has a big part in the power band more than tuning. Tuning is important but you can't make up for a snail that can't spin any faster since it is too small.

BTW, I sent you an email today Billy.
 
I agree about the tuning aspect of it however, I think the turbo Bryan had prior to his current setup spooled up really fast and was maxed out around 4k rpms he said. In which case the power hits early no matter the tuning. I think the choice of turbo that you put on has a big part in the power band more than tuning. Tuning is important but you can't make up for a snail that can't spin any faster since it is too small.
As you said earlier, Vtec was not working which was the biggest reason the motor ran out of steam up top. With everything functioning properly, a smaller turbo will flatten out up top rather than falling off to that degree (especially compared to his current setup that feels like a train ran into the back of you and pushes you all the way to redline).

In the narrow view of just Bryan's previous setup its easy to make that conclusion but it's important to look big picture at what was going on as well as realize that's only one example. Turbo/piping design and sizing has a lot to do with the powerband as is the tuning (timing/boost/fuel ratio/etc...). Again its all a very complex and involved system and you didn't get a chance to feel said systems in proper working order.

Billy
 
Easy there Billy, I have driven other turbo cars. My 335i has two tiny turbos in it. The best tuning in the world can't make up for how small those snails are. Would you agree there? Tell me why they can't get the power curve to go all the way up to redline on the 335i with tunes.
 
Easy there Billy, I have driven other turbo cars. My 335i has two tiny turbos in it. The best tuning in the world can't make up for how small those snails are. Would you agree there? Tell me why they can't get the power curve to go all the way up to redline on the 335i with tunes.
No need to take offense. If you look at the dyno graph of a 335i tuned to similar power levels as your car:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/335i dyno/vr6mote/dynograph.jpg

-You'll see peak torque stays flat from 3,000-5,500rpm and then tapers off to the 7,000rpm redline. The 335i is an example of when a OEM manufacturer wants a lot of low end and mid-range grunt to improve where most people drive on the streets (making the car feel like it has more displacement than it does). The Mazdaspeed 3 is another great example where small turbos improve the bottom-mid range and run out of steam up top.

We are talking about the same thing.
 
It's funny how we all want more power. Im quilty of this as well with my turbo nsx, but we should probably learn to use the power we have before adding any more power to the car.

To get back to your topic sell the supercharger, and invest in a turbo setup. Frank
 
It's funny how we all want more power. Im quilty of this as well with my turbo nsx, but we should probably learn to use the power we have before adding any more power to the car.

To get back to your topic sell the supercharger, and invest in a turbo setup. Frank

I will have to stick with the SC if I want to compete in targa next year , so I think I'll work with what I have. Taking some advice here I'm going to look into after cooling and tuning first.
 
I will have to stick with the SC if I want to compete in targa next year , so I think I'll work with what I have. Taking some advice here I'm going to look into after cooling and tuning first.

Have you looked into running meth/water injection instead of investing in the intercooler and water to air setup required for the SC. It will be much less and could provide the same result in the end.

Maybe others that have played with chemical cooling can chime in with some numbers?

Dave
 
Usually people add wather/meth injection in addition to your intercooler. It is certainly a good idea. The major issue I have learned about is high intake temps from the supercharger. It is a shame the CTSC doesn't come with a basic air to air intercooler to help out.

I am going to venture down the same street at some point down the road after I get some experience on this setup I have. Let me know how you do with all you mods and good luck in the race in Austrailia.
 
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