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Keeping IATs in check

Joined
13 December 2011
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Looking at a few good options for keeping the IATs in check during aggressive driving / mild track use -

Comptech supercharger Kit, high boost pulley, 550cc injectors and AEMV2.

I already have a custom air-water Intercooler which drops the temps 30-40 degrees (compared to turning it off), looking to enhance further.

Anyone have a good plan for the AEM Meth kit? Post-blower since I don't want to modify the manifold. Or any other good ways to help cool?
 
For post-blower spray you can put a nozzle at the bottom of the plenum right under the blower. There is (in the CT plenum) a tapped hole there. But that's a difficult location to get to for cleaning the nozzle. Also, AS Motorsports makes a phenolic spacer to go under the blower and hold nozzles. Also Dave Dozier can make a similar spacer out of aluminum.

I spray pre-blower because I haven't wanted to raise the blower, which would mean eliminating the CT brace I have now. I spray right into the intake a short distance before the blower. It uses more water than spraying after the blower but I believe is more likely to have better distribution among the cylinders. I use a pump and solenoid controller of my own creation.
 
Looking at a few good options for keeping the IATs in check during aggressive driving / mild track use -

Comptech supercharger Kit, high boost pulley, 550cc injectors and AEMV2.

I already have a custom air-water Intercooler which drops the temps 30-40 degrees (compared to turning it off), looking to enhance further.

Anyone have a good plan for the AEM Meth kit? Post-blower since I don't want to modify the manifold. Or any other good ways to help cool?

I'm running an aem kit with A.S. post blower nozzle plate, which blower are you running, old 1.6 whipple?
 
While not a perfect science since I have not diligently been logging my IAT stats I can confidently say the [MENTION=20830]A.S. Motorsport[/MENTION] phenolic plate is good for about 30°F of additional passive heat soak prevention. My IATs use to run in the 160s after a long drive in Socal weather. Now it rarely goes over 130. Couple that with the dynamic meth/water spray my IATs are consistently within the range of 100-125°F. The harder I push the car the more the spray controller injects. At the track my IATs are around 80-90 consistently.

For additional info...
My controller starts to spray around 30% of flow at approx 1.5psi of boost. Its set to dump 100% of flow at about 6psi. My blower is consistent at 7psi but occasionally peaks at 8-8.5 psi when I mash the throttle.

- - - Updated - - -

Hope that helps..
 
At what IAT does the retard start and can you describe the slope?
I'll need to review my IAT tables again. Will get back to you.

IIRC I start to retard (due to IAT heat) above 170F with a sharp curve towards 210+. However, this assumes I already baked in some timing advance in my baseline tune. I cannot recall what overall timing drop that means though. It's all relative to the crappy 91 octane CA gas however. I also learned to tune with an audible knock sensor. My IAT tables have a +/- baseline entry metric. It's not an absolute value entered into the cell. I'll have to do some consolidation to figure out overall +/- timing.

- - - Updated - - -

I can also tell you.. on crappy CA gas, with just water and no meth... my car started knocking at +3 degrees at redline. Our gas here can't take much timing.
 
IIRC I start to retard (due to IAT heat) above 170F with a sharp curve towards 210+. . . . My IAT tables have a +/- baseline entry metric. It's not an absolute value entered into the cell. I'll have to do some consolidation to figure out overall +/- timing. . . . I can also tell you.. on crappy CA gas, with just water and no meth... my car started knocking at +3 degrees at redline. Our gas here can't take much timing.
Thanks Regan, that's what I was looking for. And since I run a piggyback, the relative timing numbers are more meaningful to me.

I'm still trying to decide what would be most useful for the dual maps in my piggyback. If I sprayed meth, I might use it for when the tank runs dry; I have also thought about a limp mode triggered by any one of a variety of out-of-bounds conditions; high IAT is also possible, though the stock ECU should do that already.
 
Thanks Regan, that's what I was looking for. And since I run a piggyback, the relative timing numbers are more meaningful to me.

I'm still trying to decide what would be most useful for the dual maps in my piggyback. If I sprayed meth, I might use it for when the tank runs dry; I have also thought about a limp mode triggered by any one of a variety of out-of-bounds conditions; high IAT is also possible, though the stock ECU should do that already.
Because I have not yet installed my EGT probe, what I could not figure out was exactly how much max timing to pull and at what IATs. I basically took the recommendation from my tuner at this. When i'm on the track my IAT alarms goes off at 160F+ so I know i've got to cool it and bring it back in. I assume the system is "safe" up to at least 190-210 if enough timing is pulled but I don't want to run super hot EGTs either.
 
A little of the subject but could you share what oil temps are you seeing during track/street use? What's considered high
 
While not a perfect science since I have not diligently been logging my IAT stats I can confidently say the @A.S. Motorsport phenolic plate is good for about 30°F of additional passive heat soak prevention. My IATs use to run in the 160s after a long drive in Socal weather. Now it rarely goes over 130. Couple that with the dynamic meth/water spray my IATs are consistently within the range of 100-125°F. The harder I push the car the more the spray controller injects. At the track my IATs are around 80-90 consistently.

For additional info...
My controller starts to spray around 30% of flow at approx 1.5psi of boost. Its set to dump 100% of flow at about 6psi. My blower is consistent at 7psi but occasionally peaks at 8-8.5 psi when I mash the throttle.

- - - Updated - - -

Hope that helps..


Using AEM V2 to control the kit?
 
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