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LH driveshaft will not go in all the way

Joined
7 July 2006
Messages
46
Location
SouthBay
After install the new clutch, try to install the LH driveshaft back into the differential. But the shaft will not go all the way in. After replace new set ring, the shaft bottom out but the CV joint does not bottom out in the differential. You can actually pull back the shaft from the diff. So I think the new set ring did not seat into the side gear groove.
Remove the set ring and try to re-install the shaft just to see if it will go all the way in. Same problem, just won't go all the way in.
Install the intermediate shaft and took the measurement, and then compared it to the LH shaft, it went in just the right depth.
So what am I doing wrong ? Anyone ever run into this ?
 
Take the axel out of the wheel bearing and inspect the splines that go into the transmission. It sounds like maybe you have DINGED a spline and it won't let the shaft go into the tranny. It doesn't take much to keep it from going in. Leave the snap ring OFF until you can get the shaft to go into the tranny FREELY. Be careful not to damage the seal or you will start leaking tranny fluid when you get done. You can take a small triangle file to clean up any nicks in the shaft splines. After you get the shaft to go in and out of the tranny FREELY apply a light coat of Honda Urea Grease to the splines and do it again. Once you get to this point reinstall the snap ring.
Be sure to grease the seal also. Coat between the double lips with some of the Urea Grease.
Good Luck,
Brad
 
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After clean up the drive shaft spline, without the set ring, the shaft bottom out into the diff. But there is still a 4mm gap between the CV axle assembly to the diff housing. When the shaft bottom out, the sound of it is a very solid bang like it is hitting a dead end. I put it a little red grease in the diff just after the set ring groove. Well, the tip of the shaft did not even touch that. So where am I bottoming out at ?
 
Are you sure that you got all of the splines cleaned up? If you had some that were dinged maybe there are some more further up the shaft. If that CV joint doesn't go into the tranny all the way to the stop the only thing it can be is the splines either on the axel or in the tranny. I sure hope that the splines are not damaged in the tranny. Did you put anything into the tranny where the axel goes in, like to lift the tranny?

Is there something here that you did to your car that you haven't told us about? Let me make sure that I understand what you did to your car. You removed the tranny and changed the clutch. Did you replace the boots on the CV axels? Did you disassemble the tranny?

Brad
 
My LH side was a bitch to get back in also. I spent hours under it and basically had to slam it in like a battering ram. Don't remember the details. Just remember that I didn't give up for hours and I could sleep for a few days because my chest and arms just hurt so bad from the work out. It went in eventually.
 
Koolaid, do you mind to look at your LH drive shaft from above the engine bay ? Is the CV axle pushed in all the way that it touches the trans housing ? When mine CV axle is pushed all the way in, there is about a 4mm gap to the trans housing. By the way, I replaced that seal which it sticks out of the trans housing about 0.5 mm. It is really a bitch to install the shaft with set ring because it opened up so much.
 
The seal should be flush with the trans case. The best way to get this to engage is the grab the lower control arm by both bolt holes and give it a quick pull towards the centerline of the car;).

HTH,
LarryB
 
If I recall correctly, part of the problem can be that the ring will not be perfectly centered on the shaft...it can hang down some as you are pushing it in and it will never fit. I think Larry gave me the hint of greasing the ring up so that you could get it to stay centered while you push it in. Does this make sense?

Bill
 
Larry, do you mean to say grab the lower control arm and give it a hard push towards the centerline of the engine ? OE set ring comes at 32mm OD, by the time it is installed onto the shaft it is at least 34mm OD. The part I don't understand is that my shaft definitely bottom out with a solid bang, but I have a 4mm gap between the CV axle to trans housing. Passenger side CV axle bottom out to the intermediate shaft housing, no gap.
 
Here is where I had my problem.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99096

Larry's advice helped me. I laid under the A-arm, my head towards the engine. Then I grabbed the lower A arm and PULLED it in towards me.

I initially tried pushing it in while I was sitting/kneeling next to the car...... didn't do a thing.

I also got a WAY too generous with the grease and the seal wouldn't let any air/excess grease escape past when I tried to get the shaft back in.
 
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The distance between the edge of the case and the edge of the axle flange is about 4mm.

HTH,
LarryB
 
After applying CV joint grease on the shaft, it went it pretty easy. Thanks Larry for confirming the 4mm gap. It is good to go in all 5 forward gears. But I can get in the reverse gear when engine is running. Made several mid plate adjustments, no success.
# 1 at 9 o'clock
# 2 at 8 o'clock
# 3 at 9 o'clock

Tried to adjust the # 2, it just won't go in anymore.

When engine is off, all 5 forward & reverse gears are smooth engage. Only no reverse when engine running.
 
Tell me the history of reverse. Was this an issue before the clutch? Which clutch? Did you initialize it, if it is a dual plate OEM?

Remember that reverse HAS a syncro, so do not have the car siutting with the clutch depressed for a while. This will make reverse difficult.

HTH,
LarryB
 
OEM twin disc. 3 points of mid plate adjustment or initialize. Final reading on the adjustment is :
# 1 at 9 o'clock
# 2 at 8 o'clock
# 3 at 9 o'clock

Try to take # 2 to 9 o'clock, it just won't move anymore. I can get into reverse 2 out of 5 times, but it is very tight.

Any suggestion Larry ?
 
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