A weighted impact socket is key for getting an NSX crank bolt off easily. I haven't had any trouble since getting one. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U
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List of things to replace while engine is out? And where to buy?
- Thread starter e9coupe
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The only other time I've had this much trouble is with an '83 BMW 323i. 3/4" impact on it for probably a total of ten minutes. Something just seems wrong when that happens. Engineering change maybe? ;-)
Makes sense. I've never seen one before, but I try not to do this kind of stuff if possible.
I would ditch the VVIS in favor of SoS's Intake Air Bypass (IAB) kit. Based on their tests there is virtually no downside and you get rid of a potential failure point with the VVIS screws backing out and getting ingested by the engine.
www.scienceofspeed.com
ScienceofSpeed Intake Air Bypass (IAB) Delete Kit - NSX, 1991-05 - NSX, 1991-05
<p>The factory Intake Air Bypass (IAB) system, also known as the Variable Volume Intake System (VVIS) is a vacuum-operated set of valve plates that alters the volume of the intake depending on load. The valve plates are fastened with screws that are known
So far I've been pleased with how the internals look. Cam lobes show zero wear, LMA cylinders are not sticking and the coolant and fuel passages are all very clean. I got the LMA springs in last night so now it's just putting everything back together with new seals and gaskets and a hell of a lot of cleaning.
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The screws backing out is way overblown. I recommend just inspecting them on a yearly basis and keeping the VVIS functionality intact.I would ditch the VVIS in favor of SoS's Intake Air Bypass (IAB) kit. Based on their tests there is virtually no downside and you get rid of a potential failure point with the VVIS screws backing out and getting ingested by the engine.
ScienceofSpeed Intake Air Bypass (IAB) Delete Kit - NSX, 1991-05 - NSX, 1991-05
<p>The factory Intake Air Bypass (IAB) system, also known as the Variable Volume Intake System (VVIS) is a vacuum-operated set of valve plates that alters the volume of the intake depending on load. The valve plates are fastened with screws that are known
Rear main seal... 91214-PL2-003 or 91214-PL2-004? Same thing? Also, it looks like mine has been replaced in the past and Honda Bond showing all around the plate that holds the seal. I'm assuming if I have the pan off to replace the pan gasket I should just remove the rear plate to do the seal?
I did the seal with the plate on (in my case I had already installed the oil pan and didn't want to break the seal), but if I had to do it again, I'd remove the plate. It's a lot easier to get the seal mounted evenly that way. Make sure to buy the special coated bolts. I think there are seven of them. Looks like both of those part numbers have been superseded by: 91214-RNB-A01
I used the -003 in my 92 and it fit fine. Keep in mind the seal is pre-greased on the inside lip. Also, wipe the crank snout with acetone and a microfiber before installing. Any dirt there will eventually cause leaks.
Thanks Honcho. I guess I already figured out the seal a while ago because the 91214-RNB-A01 is the one sitting on my shelf waiting to go on. LOL What a Bozo.
What's the special coating on the bolts? Mine look like they were reused.
What's the special coating on the bolts? Mine look like they were reused.
Definitely not a bozo move- I'm still finding new bags of parts that I ordered and forgot about lol.
The bolts have the same red coating on the threads as the water pump bolts.
Technically, you can re-use the old ones after cleaning the threads and applying some Hondabond, but the Refresh Center level method is to use new bolts. Whichever way you go, make sure to clean out the threads in the block with a thread chaser or brass wire brush before re-installing the bolts. Otherwise, your torque will be off.
Wow, getting the transaxle on was a PITA. SOS-275, straightforward, came with the standard plastic alignment tool and I tried it about four or five times, loosening the pressure plate, adjusting the disc, wouldn't line up, so I took the tool out and just eye-balled the disc with the outside of the pressure plate friction pads which are the exact same diameter. Slid right in. Now I'm back to cleaning, assembling, cleaning, assembling...
The plastic tools are terrible for this! I used an old mainshaft the last time I had to do this job.
I don't have any part numbers but I would want to take the time to replace all the rubber seals as well. So VC gaskets, vtech gaskets (and bolts!), cam seals. Go ahead and do the AC pully bearing and I would replace the oil plugs on the head as well-(here is an overview: https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/pesky-oil-leak-rear-bank.169196/)
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