The only other time I've had this much trouble is with an '83 BMW 323i. 3/4" impact on it for probably a total of ten minutes. Something just seems wrong when that happens. Engineering change maybe? ;-)I remember working with my son on his RSX removing the crank bolt. The first bang was when the 1/2" extension on the breaker bar turned into a corkscrew. After getting a 3/4" drive breaker bar and extension the real big bang occurred when the crank bolt let go. I was absolutely sure that we must have broken something.
Makes sense. I've never seen one before, but I try not to do this kind of stuff if possible.A weighted impact socket is key for getting an NSX crank bolt off easily. I haven't had any trouble since getting one. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U
The screws backing out is way overblown. I recommend just inspecting them on a yearly basis and keeping the VVIS functionality intact.I would ditch the VVIS in favor of SoS's Intake Air Bypass (IAB) kit. Based on their tests there is virtually no downside and you get rid of a potential failure point with the VVIS screws backing out and getting ingested by the engine.
<p>The factory Intake Air Bypass (IAB) system, also known as the Variable Volume Intake System (VVIS) is a vacuum-operated set of valve plates that alters the volume of the intake depending on load. The valve plates are fastened with screws that are knownwww.scienceofspeed.com
I did the seal with the plate on (in my case I had already installed the oil pan and didn't want to break the seal), but if I had to do it again, I'd remove the plate. It's a lot easier to get the seal mounted evenly that way. Make sure to buy the special coated bolts. I think there are seven of them. Looks like both of those part numbers have been superseded by: 91214-RNB-A01Rear main seal... 91214-PL2-003 or 91214-PL2-004? Same thing? Also, it looks like mine has been replaced in the past and Honda Bond showing all around the plate that holds the seal. I'm assuming if I have the pan off to replace the pan gasket I should just remove the rear plate to do the seal?
Definitely not a bozo move- I'm still finding new bags of parts that I ordered and forgot about lol.Thanks Honcho. I guess I already figured out the seal a while ago because the 91214-RNB-A01 is the one sitting on my shelf waiting to go on. LOL What a Bozo.
What's the special coating on the bolts? Mine look like they were reused.
The plastic tools are terrible for this! I used an old mainshaft the last time I had to do this job.Wow, getting the transaxle on was a PITA. SOS-275, straightforward, came with the standard plastic alignment tool and I tried it about four or five times, loosening the pressure plate, adjusting the disc, wouldn't line up, so I took the tool out and just eye-balled the disc with the outside of the pressure plate friction pads which are the exact same diameter. Slid right in. Now I'm back to cleaning, assembling, cleaning, assembling...