Also, can I buy your relay box bracket when you relocate it for the hood duct?
I have one that allows you to mount the relay box down on the frame rail.
Thanks. It won't be for at least another 3 months. I still have to wait for hood and then the wing which I was told should be done in April. So I'm guessing May will be when I go drop it off.
In regards to the bracket, I'm actually going with the DF style duct not the NSX-R one which requires the relocation of the relay box. So unfortunately I can't really help you out with that.
Thanks. It won't be for at least another 3 months. I still have to wait for hood and then the wing which I was told should be done in April. So I'm guessing May will be when I go drop it off.
In regards to the bracket, I'm actually going with the DF style duct not the NSX-R one which requires the relocation of the relay box. So unfortunately I can't really help you out with that.
It's been a while, I had a flu a few weeks ago and am starting to get to the point where I'm ok enough to work on the car. I missed a bunch of nice warms days here in the north east to be able to work on the car, but that's life for ya.
Either way today I decided to start the car and test out if I still have rubbing issues as a move the car about my driveway. As I suspected I still have rubbing issues at full lock. I'll probably need to do more grinding to make this work 100%. I also took the opportunity to snap a couple of pictures from a distance and under the sun. I'm still waiting for the hood and duct to arrive and for the weather to just warm up to really start working on it. Unfortunately it looks like after today temps drop back to the 30s and below for next week so I'll just wait until we get back into the high 40's to start working on it again. Either way I know it's not much of an update but thought it would be nice to let people know what's going on and share some new pics.
This is the first time I've caught the flu. Man it sucked and I still have an slight irritation in my throat from it. Either way little by little I'm getting back to normal.
I haven't finalized the mounting of the side skirt yet because with them installed it becomes impossible for me to put the car back down on the floor with my floor jack. Since I'm focusing on fixing the tire clearance issue, I need to drop and raise the car some more, so I've been holding off on the side skirts install for now. What I think I need to do is make some wood ramps to be able to lower the car onto those so I have clearance with the jack.
Now I'm wondering how this is going to affect me when it comes time to do my inspection or alignments. Might have to pull them off for those tasks. I guess we will see when the time comes I'll figure it out.
Looks great! I'm on my second Marga-Hills kit already and the quality of their fiberglass /fitment has always been very good. Based on my experience with Japanese made kits they are usually made with a little extra for trimming instead of exact fit. But better this way than to have dupe kits that require way too much filler to fix.
May I ask what you're planning to do for the fender liners? The OEM ones won't be long enough to fit the extra width. I'm actually going with a similar set up as you (but advance fenders and taitec diffusor), and still waiting on my Voltex Wing Type 4 too, when I ordered in Nov, it was a 6+month leadtime. Also I totally wanted the MH headlight kit as well. But unfortunately I heard from MH directly that he lost the mold of it.
And please give updates on wheel fitment once everything is finished! I'm curious about the 255's upfront. And thank you very much for sharing the wheel/tire specs.
As of now I'm going to run without fender liners, especially since I need ever bit of space in there to accommodate the 255 in the front wheel well. pbassjo did mention that he can make custom liners as well when he works on it so we'll see what he does.
I did a bit more grinding yesterday and will test out the clearance Friday when it's nicer out. I also installed the Seibon carbon trunk. I did a weight comparison from oem vs the seibon. OEM trunk with latch bracket is 13lbs and the Seibon carbon trunk is 15.5lbs. The fit of the seibon trunk is ok. I think if it was on a stock bodied NSX it would actually be a bad fit but since my Marga Hills rear fenders sit a little higher than oem it seems like the seibon hood actually is a better match for it (near flush transition between Marga Hills fender and seibon trunk vs a noticeable dip from Marga Hills fender to oem trunk).
I also got in contact with Evasive Motorsport, who I ordered the voltex Type-5 wing through, and they told me the wing is suppose to be completed in May. It will ship sometime in June. I should have the wing late June/early July. Also I believe the DF hood should be shipping out this week.
Either way here are some pics of the trunk mounted. I'll update Friday if my grinding of the pinch weld actually fixed the rubbing issue or not.
Did I read that right? The SEIBON trunk is heavier than OEM? I guess I shouldn't be surprised (OEM being Al). The CF weave does look nice, got to acknowledge that.
That is correct the seibon trunk is heavier by 2.5lbs. I may try to skelotonize it to get some of that weight back, since this fits better with my marga hill fenders. We'll see.
Either way I finally made a bracket to complete the mounting of the rear diffuser. There was one location where the Marga Hills diffuser and supplied bracket did not work with my GRF-EX003 exhaust. I had to modify the difusser itself and also make a custom bracket to allow me to secure it there around the exhaust.
Also I dropped the car on the ground and moved it some more to see if I now have enough clearance at full lock. Looks like the pinch weld is now at least an 1/8" away from the perimeter of the tire at full lock in both directions. I do still sense some rubbing on the inner side of the wheel on the passenger side frame. It's not enough to really worry about so I'm happy. I also pulled the car out my driveway to see if the front or rear ends up hitting the road during the transition. Looks like I clear just fine.
Next up in the project is to finally mount the side skirts 100% and start modifying it to get the desired look. Will probably start that this weekend if I don't have any interruptions.
I'm only leaving the mirrors, rear window garnish, rear diffuser, and rear wing in carbon. Everything else is going to be painted magnum gray pearl.
I was only able to work on the car this Saturday. I drilled out the holes for the rear spoiler into the trunk and mounted my spoiler on it. I also installed the carbon B pillars and adjusted my side mirrors. I also went to home depot to purchase some aluminum brackets which I'm going to use to mount the marga hill side skirts more robustly. I ended up working on my cousin car and doing yard work on Sunday so I didn't get as much progress as I wanted on the NSX this weekend.
Car is almost fully together. Just the skirts left, epoxying the filler covers, installing the turn signals, and I could drive the car as is.
Finally made some substantial progress on my build. I go the turn signals installed and I had to make some custom brackets to make sure the signal lamps didn't fall out. Didn't seem like it would of stayed secured very well with the way it fit. I epoxied the filler covers to the bumper, I've tied up wiring for the side lamps that I deleted. I've securely installed the side skirts. Had to make custom brackets for that. I need to decide what i want to do with the pieces just behind the front wheels. I'm contemplating cutting them off and then doing some fiberglass work to fill the gap, make it clean looking. I'm also considering not flaring the end of the skirt like I originally was going to do. Now that I see it all together the offset between the skirt and the rear fender isn't that bad. I'm going to sit on it and think some more about it.
Only thing left is finish mounting front licence plate, horns, and what I think is the temp sensor.
Thanks. Yes I did but with a little difference of using rivnuts vs rivets. I wanted to make this quite easily removable instead of having to drill out rivets I now just can install screws and bolts to secure everything in place. Speaking of screws I ordred a set of 30 truss head screws to secure everything with. Waiting for that to be shipped so I can replace the hardware I have on it right now.
Thanks. Yes I did but with a little difference of using rivnuts vs rivets. I wanted to make this quite easily removable instead of having to drill out rivets I now just can install screws and bolts to secure everything in place. Speaking of screws I ordred a set of 30 truss head screws to secure everything with. Waiting for that to be shipped so I can replace the hardware I have on it right now.
The bracket and flat bar I bought at home depot. I ended up using a hack saw to cut everything to length. Basically I bought a 3 ft long piece of 1.5" x 1.5" L Bracket. I ended up cutting them up in 1.5" lengths and cut one side down to 1". So if you can find some pre-made 1.5"x 1" L brackets in 1.5" lengths online, that saves you the hassle of having to cut anything. The bracket in the 2nd photo was really just a 1.5" wide flat bar of aluminum. I just cut those to length and then bent them based on how far they needed to shift to get somewhat close to the lower portion of the side skirt.
The bracket just under the vent was actually provided by Marga Hills but it just is a 1" wide 1/16" thick piece of aluminum bar that has been bent. I just installed it and then put the rivnut on it.
The rivnuts I purchased through amazon from this link below. You need a rivnut tool to pull this or you can make a tool with some M6x1.00 30mm long steel bolts, 2 flat washers, and a M6 nut to do the same thing the tool does. That's what I ended up doing. But a warning if you go with the makeshift tool, buy multiple bolts, washers, and nuts. After a couple of pulls the threads of the bolt/nuts get deformed and it just becomes impossible to use. Also just to note these rivnuts grip range is just under the thickness of the bottom of the side rails .5-5mm grip range while the frame rail is 5.6mm thick. Seems to work though so I think it should be fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OVWEH0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post some pics of the brackets! There are a bunch of people interested in that!
