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Motor weak points?

Joined
26 April 2006
Messages
20
Location
charleston, sc huntington, wv
When building the motor what parts need replaced?

I am hoping arp studs all around and forged pistons are all that is neded?

Is this so? I would hate to lose the stock rods.

My goal will be 400-450 rwhp.

TIA,
Anthony

PS who makes turbo kits aminly interested in turbo headers single or twin setups.
 
because I love the weight of the ti band just saying they are titanium.

I also wasnt saying I would keep them I was just asking what needed to be built when building the motor. I am very new to the nsx and just trying to learn.

TIA,
Anthony
 
It seems 3.0 head gaskets are weak under FI, the common replacement is cometic.
 
He doesnt want to get rid of the titanium connecting rods because they are titanium.

Regardless, any forged rod is going to be stronger than the stock titanium rod regarless of its composition, be it steel, alluminum, whatever. Weight of the internal engine components really doesnt matter all that much here. Making sure it doesnt snap and poke through your block is a big deal though.
 
da3dalus said:
He doesnt want to get rid of the titanium connecting rods because they are titanium.

Regardless, any forged rod is going to be stronger than the stock titanium rod regarless of its composition, be it steel, alluminum, whatever. Weight of the internal engine components really doesnt matter all that much here. Making sure it doesnt snap and poke through your block is a big deal though.

Yes well it doesn't make sense to keep them even if they are lighter they are inferior in strenght. Yes it might be cool to say you have titanium con rods, won't be to say your motor went kaboom! I believe someone has posted what forge rods would weigh compared to the stock ones. Think forge rods willbe closer in weight to than the stock ones. Will help with engine balance, probably nothing significant though.
 
Pistons have to GO, they are cast and probably the most vulnerable engine component. :frown:
The oil pump gears should be replaced if you intend to track the car and push high RPM for extended periods of time. :smile:
I feel the rods, at 500HP, are nearing their operational limit. :confused:
Valves could be changed to Stainless intakes and Inconel exhaust to handle the increased heat and pressures. :confused:
As mentioned earlier; head gaskets. :smile:
Keep it all COOL; high boost = higher heat. :cool:

These are just my opinion's and the path I have followed.

Bob
 
To re-sleeve the block will add approximately $1200-1800 to the cost of the build. Done correctly; it will allow more displacement and a stronger cylinder design. Be careful on this, you need to carefully consider the wall thickness verses displacement, balanced against reliability. I would consider going to a closed deck design to prevent "sleeve wander" under extreme conditions.

Talk to several people on this issue as opinions vary; if you decide to sleeve the block don't skimp. You need to do this "RIGHT" given you intend to push the engine to 500HP. I feel you can change the displacement to 3.3 liters at the max.

Is it worth while? Given I was purchasing new forged pistons anyway and starting with a 3.0 block I could increase the displacement by 10%, I thought so.

Bob
 
Bob,

Will you please explain to me how to do it right. I am not very familiar with the process besides knowing that it exists. I am coming from a supra where none of this was needed an had just heard others talk about doing it with thier cars.

I do not know exactly what all parts are needed. I also did not realize that I had to make the bore larger. I assumed bore (or not) to the correct size then drop sleeves in. From your last message it sounds like there is more to it than this. Please let me know what else is involved when you have some time.

TIA
Anthony
 
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