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NEW "TOOL BOX" .80 cu. ft. Bass Box!!!!

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"UPDATE" 6-8-05
Re-done "TOOLBOX" is in the works once again. I did not think it was possible, but, I made it better!!
Will have new post soon!!


Well,
After working on Malubu Rappers car, I moved a wire harness and 2 installed nut blocks. The existing box went back farther, and a little crooked. So, being the perfectionist that I am. I re-molded the car in a different way. The end result..... A bigger, better fitting box.

Thanks go out to Malibu Rapper, he came over Friday night to test fit the box in his car. I wanted to make sure the Power Steering modgule was not in the way. It fit perfect! :biggrin:

The new size is an amazing .80 cu.ft. :eek:



[email protected]

See the new pics!!
 

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attachment.php

In that pic, is the enclosure sitting on top of the OEM carpet? Can that be done without cutting the carpet at all? I don't want to cut my new carpet just for a little bigger enclosure. But if I can just push the carpet down farther back and have that enclosure sit on top of it, I might be interested.

And will the OEM floormat cover it completely? If it's closer to the seat than the OEM carpet, I'd guess the floormat would show some of the enclosure to the left & right of it. I want everything to fit and look stock if possible.
 
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Deuce B said:
attachment.php

In that pic, is the enclosure sitting on top of the OEM carpet? Can that be done without cutting the carpet at all? I don't want to cut my new carpet just for a little bigger enclosure. But if I can just push the carpet down farther back and have that enclosure sit on top of it, I might be interested.

And will the OEM floormat cover it completely? If it's closer to the seat than the OEM carpet, I'd guess the floormat would show some of the enclosure to the left & right of it. I want everything to fit and look stock if possible.

It is on top of the OEM carpet. You have to cut it at the crease to lay the carpet into the hole. The cut is at the crease, so you can carpet tape the carpet back to stock.

The floormats do have to be changed to fit properly. Hurant makes them from a pattern.
 
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This is great, an even bigger enclosure and not much sacrificed. Is there a noticeable difference in bass output/response between your first enclosure (.68) and this new .80 enclosure? How much more room did you gain from the back of the speaker to the wall of the enclosure?
 
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So when Rapper was talking about how much bass he had the other day, was he using the smaller of the two boxes?
 
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Veleno said:
This is great, an even bigger enclosure and not much sacrificed. Is there a noticeable difference in bass output/response between your first enclosure (.68) and this new .80 enclosure? How much more room did you gain from the back of the speaker to the wall of the enclosure?

It seems to have deeper bass in the bigger box. But, without a meter and the 2 boxes in the same car and same system, it is hard to tell. I forgot to measure the depth on the new box. When I get anouther one done, I will post depth.
 
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I just had to remove my Buzz box from my car for another reason and found that it has air leaks. I wonder how much bass I'm losing due to that??
Might have to step up and get one of yours.
 
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Do you include polyfil?
Is the speaker & box wired up/drilled/sealed in option 5? (wiring from speaker - box - output has been done?)
Is it possible to make another front panel (or modify the current one) to have the speaker look recessed/flushed in the box?
 
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92NSX said:
I just had to remove my Buzz box from my car for another reason and found that it has air leaks. I wonder how much bass I'm losing due to that??
Might have to step up and get one of yours.

Air leaks can make you lose a TON of bass for two huge reasons. The loss of a proper enclosure and distortion. Minor hisses from improper sealing don't really have a huge effect but you'd like to be as air tight as possible. What happens with a larger air leak is you create a ported enclosure. When you have a small ported enclosure that is the size of a sealed enclosure, it's really a bad situation.

veleno said:
Do you include polyfil?

Polyfill is cheap, about $2 about 1 pound. My box came with the polyfill included. Fiberglass insulation works just as well, just a bit on the itchy side.

veleno said:
Is it possible to make another front panel (or modify the current one) to have the speaker look recessed/flushed in the box?

I hate to answer for Hal but when you go recessed, please keep in mind the mounting depth that you will lose. If you use a shallow subwoofer then you may not have to worry. But the angle, basket shape, magnet diameter, and depth of speaker must be considered when you mount the subwoofer. When you go top mounted, you will maximize possibilities of the sub fitting. If it's a shallow sub, the odds will work in your favor. The difference between top mounting and flush is usually around .5" which is a LOT. Hal can talk more about flush mounting the sub but I just wanted to throw the flags out there in case you wanted to do that. I personally prefer top mounting because you can flush it with a trim and it doesn't even have to be really precise considering that it will be hidden from view.

This new box is pretty amazing. I thought the old box was a tight fit. This new box makes the Giza pyramid's best stones look out of place. I am using the .68 cubic feet version of the toolbox and it works out great for my 10W3V2. I measured the new box with Hal so I know the new figure is accurate. He needs to learn how to leave good enough alone. With this kind of volume he's going to have to figure out how to squeeze a 12" sub into the box...
 
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I wouldn't want to recess the speaker into the box even further. I only wanted to know if another trim panel could be made to give the illusion of a recessed sub? Thanks for the info though Malibu :)
 
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Veleno said:
Do you include polyfil?
Is the speaker & box wired up/drilled/sealed in option 5? (wiring from speaker - box - output has been done?)
Is it possible to make another front panel (or modify the current one) to have the speaker look recessed/flushed in the box?

It's option 4. Yes, the sub is wired, set, and with polyfil inside. I include quick release connectors on the wire.

There is a wood front cover that flushes the speaker. My design uses all fiberglass for the box. This increases volume and reduces the depth.
 
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Veleno said:
I wouldn't want to recess the speaker into the box even further. I only wanted to know if another trim panel could be made to give the illusion of a recessed sub? Thanks for the info though Malibu :)

Sorry, I misread your post last night, it was late. :) I have a panel that flushes the sub and the JL grill. I haven't gotten a hold of the JL grill yet so I don't want to post pictures of it.
 
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I got the box insatlled by Hal last weekend when i was in Newport, this thing is just AWESOME. Just like Malibu said, it looks like its a factory install it fits perfect. The bass that JL puts out it just nuts, by the time i got back to Vegas my ears were still ringing :biggrin: The one cool thing i notice is that the bass isnt overbearing outside the car, i dont sound like some 16 year old kid you can hear a half block away booming, but when you sit in the car its just unreal, the NSX holds alot of the sound in the cabin. Well i give 2 thumbs up, this is the best money ive spent in the NSX in a long time.
 
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I have been working very long and hard to make improvements to this. You saw the new design? I have spent the past 2 weeks making it better, bigger, with out loosing more floor space.

I hope to be able to ship ALL orders in 2 weeks or so! I will ship faster if possible. :biggrin:

Thanks for your support. You will love the changes. :rolleyes:
 
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zetoolman said:
I have been working very long and hard to make improvements to this. You saw the new design? I have spent the past 2 weeks making it better, bigger, with out loosing more floor space.

I hope to be able to ship ALL orders in 2 weeks or so! I will ship faster if possible. :biggrin:

Thanks for your support. You will love the changes. :rolleyes:

I've got my amp all wired up and ready. I took out the old sub, and the system sounds the same.. That OEM one sure is a joke. Gotta love that 'grill' made of solid metal! I recommend that even those without aftermarket subwoofers take out the OEM one for the extra foot space, its not really helping anyway :p

Which brackets must be removed for the Tool Box? The three indicated with arrows, and/or the three under the black bracket?

This picture is handy, thanks Vega$ NSX! And to D'Ecosse for his install guide! :)

subwoofer%20014a.jpg


-Josh
 
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Joshs said:
Which brackets must be removed for the Tool Box? The three indicated with arrows, and/or the three under the black bracket?

Remove the three indicated by the arrows and the ones under the black bracket. A hammer and chisel make it easier. Some of them I just remove by prying on them with the backside of a hammer. Aluminum is really soft and some of the brackets just tear off at the welds.
 
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Joshs said:
I've got my amp all wired up and ready. I took out the old sub, and the system sounds the same.. That OEM one sure is a joke. Gotta love that 'grill' made of solid metal! I recommend that even those without aftermarket subwoofers take out the OEM one for the extra foot space, its not really helping anyway :p

Which brackets must be removed for the Tool Box? The three indicated with arrows, and/or the three under the black bracket?

This picture is handy, thanks Vega$ NSX! And to D'Ecosse for his install guide! :)

subwoofer%20014a.jpg


-Josh

You also need to remove the blue plastic around the yellow wire harness. Push the yellow wire harness up, and out of the way to the left. Clear the floor of any obstructions.
 
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D'Ecosse said:
Thanks - But that wasn't my picture or from my thread -
it was from Vega$ NSX in this thread on the SOS Sub Box Install

Thanks for the credit! :smile: You're still the stereo write up king though! :biggrin:

Joshs said:
This picture is handy, thanks Vega$ NSX! ]

No problem! Hope it helped. Good success stories like these, make it all worth doing.
 
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The tooling is still underway for the new box. I wanted to make it better and faster to build. I am working on professional tooling. It is taking longer than I wanted. But, it will be worth it!!

Once the tooling is done, I can turn out 10 boxes a week or more if needed. Without it it would take 1 week to turn out a box.

So, please be patient. It will be worth the delay! :biggrin:
 
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I just saw the new tooling. It is great! Having tooling done is a long process, longer than I was told it would take. It is very complex to make. Engineering is difficult on this sort of thing. The end result will blow everyones mind! Will ship product ASAP and post pics on the update. SOOO, everyone waiting please be patient, it is worth it. :biggrin:
 
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I finally placed mine in the car today,It fit awesome.Looks great,I am very impressed with Hal's workmanship as well as his customer service A+ !!!
I won't have sound for a bit as I am oing to try a few different subs.
Thanks again Hal.
Stacy
 
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