I just removed the front bumper. Seemed easiest to me... i guess we're all just a lil different.
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NSX-R bars DIY install procedure
- Thread starter MJK
- Start date
I am also planning to get the Dali Race/Street Swaybars 0.875"....Do you guys know the swaybars will fit with the Type-R bar?
Is the swaybars easy to install? Do I need to modify anything else to install the swaybars?
Thanks in advance.....
Is the swaybars easy to install? Do I need to modify anything else to install the swaybars?
Thanks in advance.....
Dali was out of those when I ordered the type R bars, so I ended up ordering the comptech sways @ nopi. They work fine together, but you have to nip off a corner of the spare tire holder (maybe an inch) if you want any extra clearance there.
Re: NSX-R bars install for late model NSX's
Well I finally had a chance to install Hrant's Type R suspension bars on his car. The front went fine and the problems started with the lower bar. Hrant has a Comptech sway bar and after mounting it we found absolutely no spacing available between the sway bar and the Type R bracket. This is even before loading the wheels.
Well after about 1 hour of fusing we finally came up with a solution which should work for all car years. We still need a few special parts to make it work and that will come shortly. When we get it all together and tested we'll let you know of the fix and I will have a complete kit available to do the job.
Stay tuned for future info, and don't throw away those lower bars or do anything to them at this time.
Well I finally had a chance to install Hrant's Type R suspension bars on his car. The front went fine and the problems started with the lower bar. Hrant has a Comptech sway bar and after mounting it we found absolutely no spacing available between the sway bar and the Type R bracket. This is even before loading the wheels.
Well after about 1 hour of fusing we finally came up with a solution which should work for all car years. We still need a few special parts to make it work and that will come shortly. When we get it all together and tested we'll let you know of the fix and I will have a complete kit available to do the job.
Stay tuned for future info, and don't throw away those lower bars or do anything to them at this time.
Hi Mark, now that we have done part of the process, we can better appreciate your instructions
A few questions regarding side A, did you not use washer(s) behind the bracket for the top bolt on the passenger side? And were the bolts long enough for both step 3 and 4 for the brackets and toe hook to be firmly secured with some bite?
By the way, Al's 91 toe hooks are labeled right/left and do not come with the front welded facia on the toe hook (mine just like yours do)! Perhaps this was done for reinforcement but we are not sure.
TIA
A few questions regarding side A, did you not use washer(s) behind the bracket for the top bolt on the passenger side? And were the bolts long enough for both step 3 and 4 for the brackets and toe hook to be firmly secured with some bite?
By the way, Al's 91 toe hooks are labeled right/left and do not come with the front welded facia on the toe hook (mine just like yours do)! Perhaps this was done for reinforcement but we are not sure.
TIA
Hrant said:
I tried all sorts of combos that I did not post, including that one. I also tried putting the mounting arms behind the tow hook/tie downs on both sides. The way I posted above is really the way it appears designed to use. All the holes line up without forcing anything. I have no proof, but I bet Honda ditched one of the tie downs to save weight and then used the same mounting arrangement I did (minus the ground down tie down).
That is what it looks like to me as well. The reenforcement is right were it looks like most of the stress is to me (centered just where it drops below the frame). But, I have no proof here either.Hrant said:
Hrant said:
You bet, I hope you guys get the sways figured out! I think Jadkar removed the aluminum sway spacers, bent a coolant line and used CT sways. Might want to check out that post if you didn't already?
Just to update, I fitted these bars to mine today and you don't have to remove the radiator shroud to fit the upper bar. Just remove the plates holding the radiator in place, then move it back a bit. You can get your hand in to cut away the plastic ok and fit the upper bar from above. You might have to unclip one of the fuse boxes to allow you to move the rad back.
I didn't need to remove either of the tie down hooks, mine fitted perfect as is, it is a UK spec car though.
Hope this helps
Leigh
I didn't need to remove either of the tie down hooks, mine fitted perfect as is, it is a UK spec car though.
Hope this helps
Leigh
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i just installed the chassis bars and front sway bar today on an 03. thanks. very useful thread.
the hardest part for me was trying to install the front bar without removing the bumper. getting that radiator shroud out is tricky. the shroud did have a nice 'cut here' dotted line though.
the hardest part for me was trying to install the front bar without removing the bumper. getting that radiator shroud out is tricky. the shroud did have a nice 'cut here' dotted line though.
Getting ready to do mine... looks like the pulling radiator back doesn't give a whole lot of room.... pulling the front bumper off is going too be to hard for me (novice mechanic with no helpers). So looks like I am going to pull the radiator shroud...
btw: found a much cheaper source for the replacement clips...
http://autobodyclips.com/index.php?Search=Honda+16782&ProductID=6375
$14.45 for a box of 25 & free shipping. Acura wanted $2.23 each.
btw: found a much cheaper source for the replacement clips...
http://autobodyclips.com/index.php?Search=Honda+16782&ProductID=6375
$14.45 for a box of 25 & free shipping. Acura wanted $2.23 each.
I just installed the lower chassis stabilizer bar. When the car was in the air, there was a good deal of space between the stabilizer bar and the sway bar. After lowering the car back onto the ground, the sway bar was riding right on top of the stabilizer bar and I couldn't fit a piece of paper between the two. So, I jacked the car back up again and took the chassis stabilizer bar off to avoid the possibility of bangs, squeaks, and rattles.
I can confirm that the lower chassis stabilizer bar does not fit a 1991 NSX in my car's current configuration: OEM 1991 sway bar, OEM shock absorbers, and Eibach springs. From what I've read, the stabilizer bar fits a 1991 if the car is not lowered. With Eibachs, it doesn't.
Can anyone confirm from experience whether the lower chassis stabilizer bar will fit a 1991 NSX set up like this: OEM shock absorbers, Eibach springs, and Zanardi (or possibly 2002 Type-R) sway bars? I don't want to buy more parts without being 100% sure they will fit.
I can confirm that the lower chassis stabilizer bar does not fit a 1991 NSX in my car's current configuration: OEM 1991 sway bar, OEM shock absorbers, and Eibach springs. From what I've read, the stabilizer bar fits a 1991 if the car is not lowered. With Eibachs, it doesn't.
Can anyone confirm from experience whether the lower chassis stabilizer bar will fit a 1991 NSX set up like this: OEM shock absorbers, Eibach springs, and Zanardi (or possibly 2002 Type-R) sway bars? I don't want to buy more parts without being 100% sure they will fit.
Man, I've had that front bar sitting in my garage for months. I think I'll tackle this project this weekend. :smile:
greenberet said:
something that may be of interest to you:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...ducts/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/chassis_bar_spacers/
x
Thanks for the tip, but I'm afraid that mounting the battery tray and chassis bar lower with the spacers will decrease my ground clearance. Considering how little ground clearance my NSX already has, I don't want to do anything that may decrease it further.
I've ordered a 2002+ Type-R front sway bar and hope that won't bind against the lower chassis bar.
If I understand it correctly, when the front wheels are pushed up (by driving over a bump with both wheels, by lowering the car, when braking, or any combination of the above), the rear of the sway bar (where it attaches to the suspension) will pivot up and the front of the sway bar will pivot down. If the front of the sway bar hits something when trying to pivot down, it will prevent the wheels from moving up and will probably feel like the car is hitting its bump stops.
I want to avoid that so after installing the Type-R chassis bars and sway bar, I'll check whether they hit each other in my lowered '91 and I'll post the results.
I've ordered a 2002+ Type-R front sway bar and hope that won't bind against the lower chassis bar.
If I understand it correctly, when the front wheels are pushed up (by driving over a bump with both wheels, by lowering the car, when braking, or any combination of the above), the rear of the sway bar (where it attaches to the suspension) will pivot up and the front of the sway bar will pivot down. If the front of the sway bar hits something when trying to pivot down, it will prevent the wheels from moving up and will probably feel like the car is hitting its bump stops.
I want to avoid that so after installing the Type-R chassis bars and sway bar, I'll check whether they hit each other in my lowered '91 and I'll post the results.
This configuration will be fine. I have done it before and it fits perfect. The NSX-R bar is shaped with a higher front area, so it does not hit the lower brace bar, even at full compression on a lowered car. The car I did also had fresh Eibachs installed at that time.
HTH,
LarryB
HTH,
LarryB
Good to hear and I look forward to installing them. Thanks!
It kind of makes sense that the Type-R parts are designed to work together.
It kind of makes sense that the Type-R parts are designed to work together.
If you would have read earlier posts about this problem, you would have notice that I've had a kit available to fix this problem for both the pre 97 and post 97 model years for 1 1/2 years. This allows you to use any sway bar currently on the market for the car and still have the clearance needed for the bar to clear the lower brace even if has been lowered. I've been tracking my 91 with the Comptech sway bars and I have over 1/2" clearance between the bar and lower brace which is more than enough to prevent binding. My price for the kit on the pre-97 is $45 with included shipping.
I just installed the lower Type-R chassis bar as well as a 2002+ Type-R front sway bar in my 1991 NSX. Before attaching the ends of the sway bar to the suspension, I swung the sway bar through its full range of movement.
The 2002+ Type-R front sway bar is shaped so that it cannot hit the lower Type-R chassis bar at any point in its travel. It will hit the front right edge of the battery tray when the suspension is fully compressed, but snipping off about 1/2" of the tray at that point makes contact there impossible as well.
ATERPAK told me that all OEM front sway bars (other than the 2002+ Type-R) will hit the lower Type-R chassis bar if the car is lowered at all. In my 1991, it happened as soon as I took the car off the jack. With the Eibach springs I was using, there was a gap about a finger wide between the top of the 215/40 17 tires and the fender lip. At that point, the front of the OEM sway bar had already rotated down enough to ride on top of the chassis bar, preventing further upward travel of the wheels. Even if the car had not been lowered, that would have happened every time the front wheels were pushed up enough to be about one finger below the fender lip - such as when driving over a big bump.
I think SoS's statement that "some larger aftermarket sway bars will need spacers in order to clear the chassis bars" is an understatement. They're also needed with the OEM sway bars when the front suspension compresses. To cure that, I think you can either:
The 2002+ Type-R front sway bar is shaped so that it cannot hit the lower Type-R chassis bar at any point in its travel. It will hit the front right edge of the battery tray when the suspension is fully compressed, but snipping off about 1/2" of the tray at that point makes contact there impossible as well.
ATERPAK told me that all OEM front sway bars (other than the 2002+ Type-R) will hit the lower Type-R chassis bar if the car is lowered at all. In my 1991, it happened as soon as I took the car off the jack. With the Eibach springs I was using, there was a gap about a finger wide between the top of the 215/40 17 tires and the fender lip. At that point, the front of the OEM sway bar had already rotated down enough to ride on top of the chassis bar, preventing further upward travel of the wheels. Even if the car had not been lowered, that would have happened every time the front wheels were pushed up enough to be about one finger below the fender lip - such as when driving over a big bump.
I think SoS's statement that "some larger aftermarket sway bars will need spacers in order to clear the chassis bars" is an understatement. They're also needed with the OEM sway bars when the front suspension compresses. To cure that, I think you can either:
- install a 2002+ Type-R front sway bar, or
- continue using your existing sway bar but use spacers to mount the chassis bar lower, out of the way of the sway bar, and then also mount the battery tray lower so that it clears the chassis bar
So how hard would you rate this DIY?
can a novice do this? adn how long does it take?
can a novice do this? adn how long does it take?
It is not hard. There are a couple threads that discribe it. Here is one. It took me about 5 hours the first time because I had no instructions indicating the locations of the bolts that held on my '02 bumper. If I had to do it again, it would only take 3 hours including the grinding of the tie-down bracket.AdnanVCS said:
Has anyone had a problem removing the anti sway bar? The nut/stud spins in the control arm link. It appears that I will have to either cut the stud or replace the entirte control arm link. I applied Blaster overnight before using the wrench. An impact wrench was fruitless as was dry ice. The stud just continues to spins in the control arm... There is no way to grasp the stud from the back side either. Suggestions are welcome.
Usually, there is a hex head opening in the link stud which you hold with an allen while turning the nut with a wrench.Bodhi said:
Hmm, did not see the recessed hex. I will look again but it appeared that that the backside was smooth and flush. Does someone make a non-hexed aftermarket link stud?? It seams idiotic to do so. Maybe it is packed with debris/grease. I'll look again tonight. Thanks!
Great Writeup !
Very helpful. I just used it to complete my installation. I also went with the type r- sway up front and zarnardi bar in the rear. No issues.
But I did not re-install the radiator shroud as it looks like its a pita. Any known drawbacks to no re-using this. The car is not tracked and has plenty of airflow at 100 mph.
sxman
Very helpful. I just used it to complete my installation. I also went with the type r- sway up front and zarnardi bar in the rear. No issues.
But I did not re-install the radiator shroud as it looks like its a pita. Any known drawbacks to no re-using this. The car is not tracked and has plenty of airflow at 100 mph.
sxman
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