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P2F Racing Bladed Sway Bar For All Years

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FWIW: Seals-It only sells in bags of 6x so in order to install the required eight (four per bar) you'll need to order two packages of 6x. At $25 per package of six, no big deal. But they also charge $15, each, for shipping and handling for a <1lb. box. I bought the installation tool ($14) plus another $14 shipping. I asked them to combine shipping and they did so it was $15 for everything (still less than a 1lb. box). That still seems unreasonable for shipping but what are you going to do...

Actually do this: so once I get done installing the Seals-It boots, I'd be happy to give two of those boots away so that someone doesn't need to buy that extra bag (just let me know). I'd also be happy to send over the installation tool so that another in the community doesn't need to buy a (likely) one time tool. PM your address and, once I'm done with the install, I'll send it over. Just send it back when you're done.

Back to regularly scheduled programming. :)
Thx Shawn. Seals-It gave us no love either. Its kinda frustrating deal with them. We thought Aurora was backwards but these guys won't bend at all.

We've decided to include the boot installation as a service for $60 so future buyers won't need to go thru it with Seals-It of buying the tool, extra boots, installation, shipping hassles...etc. But, once they are on, its really nice the expensive rod-ends are protected from the element.
Ok, it has been two years and many miles since we installed this part on our test mule. The poly bushings are finally talking which was easy to take care of and a tapping/knocking noise has occurred. It sounded like its coming from the steering rack thus the knocking bushing was installed but did not save the day.

It turned out the driver side upper rod end 10mm hex has gotten loose and it was creating a bind occasionally thus the knocking. After torqued it to 45 ft/lbs, it was quiet as a church mouse. We also torqued the bottom hex to 60 ft/lbs and made sure the rest were righty-tighty as well since we're at it. The load path of the ARB will have a tendency to become loose so make sure all the bolts and hex are torqued properly.

We should've install the Seals-It boot in the beginning to protect dirt and grime from the $$$ Aurora rod-ends, perhaps next time.
So I had some free time this morning and decided to remove the present sways, clean 'em, and install the P2F ARBs. Quality kit and well executed aftermarket bars. Paint was well done and finished. Install was fairly straight forward. I had to remove the tray and nsx-r bottom but it didn't take long. I only got to the install the rears before I was called for baby duty.

I'll have to remove the end links again (my ball joints are swiss cheese) but everything is easy enough to reinstall. Looking forward to putting these things into action. Thanks for the well engineered and executed product, Tim.
Thx Shawn. I hope you have a coupe and a good sets of dampers that are properly valved so you will feel the difference even more on the street and more. Otherwise??? Make sure the rod ends are as close to L(90*)to the blade as possible. and tork the rod end bolts to chassis to 65 ft/lbs and bolts to the blades to 45 ft/lbs.

We are saving up for a set of Penskes from Erik Messley who has a long history of setting up many fast NSX and has the data to dial it in for anyone. He is in high demand and very hard to get hold of but Ryan Rush time of 1:39 w/ near stock NA I/H/E 235/275 at Laguna Seca is mighty quick but he also has mad skills.
You're welcome, Tim. Mine is a coupe ('91) and I run the Comptech Pro suspension. I'm hoping I can run with slightly lower spring rates but we'll wait and see...or maybe the A005 slicks will work to their potential. Thanks for the torque numbers.

I contacted Messley years ago to tune the handling on my car and we just couldn't make our schedules work at that time. He's sold on Penskes - as you know. ;) He did an incredible job with Paul Mumford's Viper and Hayashi's NSX. Consider yourself very fortunate to have him tune the handling on your NSX. :thumbup:
I went to his shop recently and learned a few things. also found out he was in a motorcycle accident:frown: so he is moving and recovering slowly:smile:. He is also getting married so his time is more limited. Quite a sharp dude I may add.:cool:
With his "magic", I want to feel what a top damper can do when valved properly. If the NSX chassis was not so great, I would not have troubled him. I want to set up my car so it can do 1:39 but my driving skill is another challenge i have to overcome.:eek:
Started putting the sway bar kit together but notice 2 out of 4 blades have a conical looking spacer. Should all 4 blades have this?


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No. Look at the 1st pix under Install Tips.

Only the front needs it. this is to keep the geometry and the load path as straight as possible to avoid bending but the Aurora is quality stuff so that won't happen. Your rod ends will be at an angle but make sure is to one side and as straight as you can make it but not like a Z-shape.

Tork the hex to blade to 45lbs and the rod ends bolts to 65lb. Shake it down and re-check. It should not talk back to you. Be careful when you take them apart, it has anti-seize on all the bolts.

Since i finished the install of these sways but have yet had the chance to really test them out so i cant give a comparison. But will say that to make adjustments on these when need to takes just a few minutes 👍🏼.. I also installed the ball seals with just needle nose pliers and two small flathead screw drivers or awls no special tooling just an extra set of hands.. Once you figure it out it should take you less then 20mins to install them..
FWIW, I haven't been able to track down the ZEP Metal Protectant from Grainger. Grainger says the small can is out of production. "But I can order the 47 pound 5 gallon bucket for you." Anyone else have any luck?
no luck here either but that 5 gallon bucket.. Baught some CRC lubricant spray from napa figured i just keep it lubed.. Say it leaves a light protective film against corosion/rust..
any metal protectant would work to slow down the rust. we have no luck sourcing special plated bolts to prevent rust to be "affordable". If you really want to, you can spray paint the tip of the expose portion with Rustoleum.
I just ended up using WD40 White Lithium grease as an alternative. It dried quickly, is a protectant as well and, according to the manufacturer, it won't run or melt off. Temp range is 0 - 300 F. Considering the Seal-It seals seal everything in, I'm sure it'll work out.

Thanks for the insight, Tim.
"Unfortunately it dropped out of Le Mans with clutch problems".. followed by video of the Drift King's clutchless upshifts. [emoji47]

Back on the subject I finally got the new springs and am ready to install mine.

Trick and rare bladed anti-roll bars final sale!! You mostly find these on high end race cars but we have made it possible for the NSX.

we have only a few sets left in stock and the high quality Aurora rod ends have gone up 6% in price since Dec. 2015 but we are keeping it at $1660 + shipping for both front and rear.

You can not get this kind of pricing for any other cars. Our fab and machine shops are our friends. The roll stiffness is highly tunable especially if you have quality shocks. Works great on street or track and quiet as a church mouse. Highly recommend use Seal-It rod end boots($60 installed) for dirt protection.

Once they are gone, we won't be making anymore. More detail here.


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