Last Batch Closing Out Price $1.2K Shipped(US/CAN) - Bladed Sway Bars
Friends,
We are offering a "higher tech" sway bars(aka anti-roll bar ARB 2.0) than OEM/Dali/CT style as a set to have better control of the roll stiffness. We have received PM here and from our website of many questions so we will answer them here to make it less confusing.
- What was your design criteria based upon?
OEM Anti-Roll Bar Data
diameter x wall thickness (all units are mm)
<tbody>
</tbody>
Then we crunching some numbers followed by FEA analysis and made a prototype for track testing and now its ready for the public.
-Why 4130 not mild steel?
We are more familiar working with 4130. Pricewise, not a big difference. It has about the same modulus as mild steel and 4130 has higher yield. They are more sexy than mild steel. Mild steel is perfect for a Civic or Integra application, 4130 is more fitting on an NSX.
- Can I buy just the front bar?
Not at this batch. We designed this to work as a complete package and to offer just the front is like offering a BBK for the front but no rear. We may consider offer "made to order front or rear" AFTER this batch is sold but its really not the right approach. We believe in doing it right or don't do it at all. Why spend your hard earn money and only get half the result right?
- Why are these bars 3-4x more expensive compare to whats on the market?
Excellent question. These are not like the typical sway bars on the market for any car which have been around since 1960 so the manufacturing process is mature with a CNC tube bender in large qty and then drill and powder coat. There are no special treatment needed since most of them are made from mild steel. The bladed type sway bar takes a lot more steps to make it right. It involves CNC milling, lathe, heat treat, Rockwell, nickel, welding, etc.
- Are there any benefit if I don't track my car?
Yes. You can certainly feel the car is more planted during a turn BUT, you can also adjust the stiffness and corner balancing of all 4 corners independently by turning the blade and the endlinks in different position and that is done very easily without changing to a large dia. bar with the old method which is really a PITA to do being so long and twisty. This is the first mod you should do if you want to increase your cornering speed not by install heavier springs which hurts the ride comfort and the grip.
- What’s wrong with the Dali/CT bars? They are adjustable too aren't they?
Correct. BUT with one critical detail. The angle of the endlinks to bar is meant to be 90 deg. at all time to each other to have the proper geometry(check any OEM sway bars, the endlinks are small in diameter because the load path acting on it is at 90 deg all the time thus it will not bend) The more of that angle is askewed, it will tend to bind and bend the endlinks on the street or on the track. A set of new endlinks from TiDave or SOS is ~$200 per bar. If you don’t have this problem, meaning your are not cornering hard enough to cause that problem but the load path will have a X & Y components not just Y(90deg) to the bar like the oem. The geometry of other bars on the market is not correct when the angle is not 90deg and to use larger rodends to take care the extra load is blacksmith and add unnecessary weight.
- Are they noisy? Who made the endlinks?
No noisy at all with either the poly bushings or with the optional solid alum bushings. We have over 5000 miles with no noise on solid bushings. Not saying they never will make noise.
We use aerospace quality rod ends from Aurora and all the spacers are alum hard anodized.
- What is the dia. of the rear bar and wall thk and how would the car handles compare to OEM?
The dia. is 3/4" w/ .120 wall on 4130. At mid stiff, it will behave similar to the Zanardi bar but w/ approx. 25-30% +/- stiffness adjustment with our blade. Therefor, you can change the handling behavior of the car very quickly so one should be very careful when trying out different setting at a safe location with minimal traffic.
- Can I feel the difference on the street/normal driving?
yes you can. You will feel the difference every time you make a turn especially at freeway speed. So this is NOT just for people who track their cars often but people who like to have less roll without increasing their spring rate which often cause a stiffer/bumpy ride like a ricer.
- What kind of bushings come with this kit?
it comes with 1" poly bushings w/ grease. We will have solid alum. bushings avail. for extra mojo stiff. It will be ~$50/pair.
- Would this price stays the same for this batch?
Probably not. We are setting the intro price near cost NOT because its not a quality part BUT its first time this part is made avail. on Prime as we want the early adopters to experience what a race-bred bladed ARB is like 1st and provide feedback for those who cares more about better handling but still on the fence. We have been on Prime for a long time and its a small "family" affair. By signing up now, you can lock in at the current price until we decided its time to raise it.
- Would I need to change my current set up?
That is a loaded question. The short answer is it depends as all our cars are set up differently. But try this bar and play with the settings and see how the car behaves 1st in a safe environment before changing your springs and comp/rebound settings.
Sign Up list:
GregTT has done a write up on his impression of the bars.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-2-Flag-Bladed-Anti-Roll-Bar-Review-amp-Offer
See www.tarett.com/ for Porsche 996/997 and provenwicked.com for late model Camaro for price and quality comparison.
The front bars are complete and both bars will be ready to ship approx. 2-3 weeks @ $1,250 + shipping and a full deposit is required. You can have your bank to mail a check our bank at Wells Fargo to avoid the pesky Paypal 3% fee. Your bank should have this service for free. You MUST agree to our Terms and Policy before you order as this is for OFF ROAD USE ONLY.
The process is simple: From your bank Bill Pay tab > Set up a New Payee (Pole 2 Flag Racing LLC, 9666 Businesspark Ave #110 , San Diego, CA 92131 (858)952-1038 > you bank will mail a check to us with no fees to you or us. Once that is complete, we don't need to wait until the check is cleared to ship your parts.
For those who wants to buy rod end boot to keep dirt away, you can buy direct from sealsit.com and the PN is RERS 2. You need 4 per bar and they don't offer any discount.
Below are a couple of past threads that may answer any questions you have.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...-Bar-(ARB)-2-0
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...hlight=ARB+2.0
Here is a good read from the Wiki section about sway bars. In short, roll stiffness should be controlled by the sway bars not more springs. Our bars are much more refined/advanced and will provide better, finer control of roll stiffness and much quicker adjustability w/o affecting the end-link geometry.
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Sway_and_Strut_Bars
For those who wants to buy rod end boot to keep dirt away, you can buy direct from sealsit.com and the PN is RERS 2. You need 4 per bar and they don't offer any discount.
1. Always4Sale
2. YF-19(Paid in Full- canada)
3. Greg-TT
4. Stuntman
5. whrdnsx
6. jsl757
7. jrnsx
8. 91nsx85crx
Friends,
We are offering a "higher tech" sway bars(aka anti-roll bar ARB 2.0) than OEM/Dali/CT style as a set to have better control of the roll stiffness. We have received PM here and from our website of many questions so we will answer them here to make it less confusing.
- What was your design criteria based upon?
OEM Anti-Roll Bar Data
diameter x wall thickness (all units are mm)
| Model | Front | Rear |
| 1991 NSX | 18.3 x ? | 17.5 x ? |
| 1993 NSX-R | 21.0 x 2.6 | 17.5 x 2.3 |
| 1995 NSX-R | 21.0 x 2.6 | 19.1 x ? |
| 1997 NSX | 18.3 x ? | 17.5 x ? |
| 1997 NSX-S and Zanardi | 18.3 x 3.0 | 19.1 x 3.0 |
| 1997 NSX S-Zero | 18.3 x 3.0 | 19.1 x 3.0 |
| 2002 NSX-R | 22.2 x 4.0 | 17.5 x 2.3 |
<tbody>
</tbody>
Then we crunching some numbers followed by FEA analysis and made a prototype for track testing and now its ready for the public.
-Why 4130 not mild steel?
We are more familiar working with 4130. Pricewise, not a big difference. It has about the same modulus as mild steel and 4130 has higher yield. They are more sexy than mild steel. Mild steel is perfect for a Civic or Integra application, 4130 is more fitting on an NSX.
- Can I buy just the front bar?
Not at this batch. We designed this to work as a complete package and to offer just the front is like offering a BBK for the front but no rear. We may consider offer "made to order front or rear" AFTER this batch is sold but its really not the right approach. We believe in doing it right or don't do it at all. Why spend your hard earn money and only get half the result right?
- Why are these bars 3-4x more expensive compare to whats on the market?
Excellent question. These are not like the typical sway bars on the market for any car which have been around since 1960 so the manufacturing process is mature with a CNC tube bender in large qty and then drill and powder coat. There are no special treatment needed since most of them are made from mild steel. The bladed type sway bar takes a lot more steps to make it right. It involves CNC milling, lathe, heat treat, Rockwell, nickel, welding, etc.
- Are there any benefit if I don't track my car?
Yes. You can certainly feel the car is more planted during a turn BUT, you can also adjust the stiffness and corner balancing of all 4 corners independently by turning the blade and the endlinks in different position and that is done very easily without changing to a large dia. bar with the old method which is really a PITA to do being so long and twisty. This is the first mod you should do if you want to increase your cornering speed not by install heavier springs which hurts the ride comfort and the grip.
- What’s wrong with the Dali/CT bars? They are adjustable too aren't they?
Correct. BUT with one critical detail. The angle of the endlinks to bar is meant to be 90 deg. at all time to each other to have the proper geometry(check any OEM sway bars, the endlinks are small in diameter because the load path acting on it is at 90 deg all the time thus it will not bend) The more of that angle is askewed, it will tend to bind and bend the endlinks on the street or on the track. A set of new endlinks from TiDave or SOS is ~$200 per bar. If you don’t have this problem, meaning your are not cornering hard enough to cause that problem but the load path will have a X & Y components not just Y(90deg) to the bar like the oem. The geometry of other bars on the market is not correct when the angle is not 90deg and to use larger rodends to take care the extra load is blacksmith and add unnecessary weight.
- Are they noisy? Who made the endlinks?
No noisy at all with either the poly bushings or with the optional solid alum bushings. We have over 5000 miles with no noise on solid bushings. Not saying they never will make noise.
We use aerospace quality rod ends from Aurora and all the spacers are alum hard anodized.
- What is the dia. of the rear bar and wall thk and how would the car handles compare to OEM?
The dia. is 3/4" w/ .120 wall on 4130. At mid stiff, it will behave similar to the Zanardi bar but w/ approx. 25-30% +/- stiffness adjustment with our blade. Therefor, you can change the handling behavior of the car very quickly so one should be very careful when trying out different setting at a safe location with minimal traffic.
- Can I feel the difference on the street/normal driving?
yes you can. You will feel the difference every time you make a turn especially at freeway speed. So this is NOT just for people who track their cars often but people who like to have less roll without increasing their spring rate which often cause a stiffer/bumpy ride like a ricer.
- What kind of bushings come with this kit?
it comes with 1" poly bushings w/ grease. We will have solid alum. bushings avail. for extra mojo stiff. It will be ~$50/pair.
- Would this price stays the same for this batch?
Probably not. We are setting the intro price near cost NOT because its not a quality part BUT its first time this part is made avail. on Prime as we want the early adopters to experience what a race-bred bladed ARB is like 1st and provide feedback for those who cares more about better handling but still on the fence. We have been on Prime for a long time and its a small "family" affair. By signing up now, you can lock in at the current price until we decided its time to raise it.
- Would I need to change my current set up?
That is a loaded question. The short answer is it depends as all our cars are set up differently. But try this bar and play with the settings and see how the car behaves 1st in a safe environment before changing your springs and comp/rebound settings.
Sign Up list:
GregTT has done a write up on his impression of the bars.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...-2-Flag-Bladed-Anti-Roll-Bar-Review-amp-Offer
See www.tarett.com/ for Porsche 996/997 and provenwicked.com for late model Camaro for price and quality comparison.
The front bars are complete and both bars will be ready to ship approx. 2-3 weeks @ $1,250 + shipping and a full deposit is required. You can have your bank to mail a check our bank at Wells Fargo to avoid the pesky Paypal 3% fee. Your bank should have this service for free. You MUST agree to our Terms and Policy before you order as this is for OFF ROAD USE ONLY.
The process is simple: From your bank Bill Pay tab > Set up a New Payee (Pole 2 Flag Racing LLC, 9666 Businesspark Ave #110 , San Diego, CA 92131 (858)952-1038 > you bank will mail a check to us with no fees to you or us. Once that is complete, we don't need to wait until the check is cleared to ship your parts.
For those who wants to buy rod end boot to keep dirt away, you can buy direct from sealsit.com and the PN is RERS 2. You need 4 per bar and they don't offer any discount.
Below are a couple of past threads that may answer any questions you have.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...-Bar-(ARB)-2-0
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...hlight=ARB+2.0
Here is a good read from the Wiki section about sway bars. In short, roll stiffness should be controlled by the sway bars not more springs. Our bars are much more refined/advanced and will provide better, finer control of roll stiffness and much quicker adjustability w/o affecting the end-link geometry.
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Sway_and_Strut_Bars
For those who wants to buy rod end boot to keep dirt away, you can buy direct from sealsit.com and the PN is RERS 2. You need 4 per bar and they don't offer any discount.
1. Always4Sale
2. YF-19(Paid in Full- canada)
3. Greg-TT
4. Stuntman
5. whrdnsx
6. jsl757
7. jrnsx
8. 91nsx85crx
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if they want to.
