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Passive key entry PKE on NA1 with start button

Joined
30 December 2002
Messages
232
Just want to share my PKE install. It open doors as you walk up to the car and to start the car just press the start button. No need to have a key. Safety is that brake and clutch have to be pressed or the start button will only turn on accessories.

This is the kit I got, there is one with app on phones but I wanted something basic.
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I removed the key steering lock. Since it’s manual and not electronic it have to be taken out. Tric was to press in those hole for the switch assembly to slide out. It’s only bolt on with one bolt.
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Start button fits pretty good
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Back of the start button
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Old ignition harness coupled with new alarm harness.
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For engine running signal I used fuel pump relay
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Brake signal wire that goes will go to pke. Car will not start until brake is pressed.
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Installed :)
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The question now is how long does your battery last while the car is sitting. Same goes for the battery in the FOB. The proximity feature was introduced by Compustar a while ago and was not favored because of this.
 
The question now is how long does your battery last while the car is sitting. Same goes for the battery in the FOB. The proximity feature was introduced by Compustar a while ago and was not favored because of this.

With daily use I don’t see this as an issue and my car is on battery tender when ever I don’t drive for few days anyway. It makes the car more modern and it’s great convenience.


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Thanks :)

Here is the link

Partol Push Start System Smart Key PKE Car Alarm Passive Keyless Entry Car Alarm System Engine Start Stop Push Button Remote Starter Shock Sensor Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KR1M9CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpoRDbJCJ6M69


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Do you have details on which wires/functions you tapped into with the ignition switch. Also the wires for door locks and trunk release?

Do the lights flash to show lock / unlock?
 
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Do you have details on which wires/functions you tapped into with the ignition switch. Also the wires for door locks and trunk release?

Do the lights flash to show lock / unlock?

It would of be helpful if I take notes as I went with it, lol. It was pretty straight forward, but below is what I remember, will get you remaining this weekend hopefully.

Startup Outputs
Red (+)  White (+) hot all the time on nsx ignition switch
Black (-)  Ground to nsx body
Brown (+) ON2 (wired together)
White (+) ON1 (wired together)
Blue (+) ACC+
Yellow (+) Start (+)

6Pin connector outputs
White (lock -300mA)  Blk/Red on nsx door module in glovebox
White/Black (unlock -300mA)  Blk/White nsx door module in glovebox
Pink Car Siren (-)
Brown Trunk (-)
Blue Blk/Red on Fuel pump relay
Orange (+) Brake pedal

I didn't wire the trunk yet.
The red acrylic adapter in the back did not come with it, I cnc it to be the size of the rubber peace that was there and just glue it, but all is reversible. The keyfab looks exactly like Audi kessy fab and it can hold normal key inside when you open it. I'll be going to locksmith this weekend too to cut a new key blade then cut the blank to length so it can be pinned inside the feyfab as just in case to get in the car.
 
I want it! For $55.99 it is a steal. One concern would be how durable / reliable is the equipment, including how does one add an extra keyfob? Then again, I've been with one, non working keyfob for the better part of 20 years, so maybe that part doesn't matter.
 
I actually just put a similar kit into my car. I got the EASYGUARD EC002-P7N. I did a few things different:

1) the push button on mine is a bit different (silver Audi style), I mounted it by the shifter.
2) I didnt remove the ignition switch assembly, I just inserted a key and turned it to I to release the steering lock.

Installation for me was easier as I had an existing alarm. I just reused the wires that were already tapped. I did notice a battery drain after leaving the car in the garage for a few weeks untouched. I will need to time how long it can sit between drives to avoid a dead battery.
 
I actually just put a similar kit into my car. I got the EASYGUARD EC002-P7N. I did a few things different:

1) the push button on mine is a bit different (silver Audi style), I mounted it by the shifter.
2) I didnt remove the ignition switch assembly, I just inserted a key and turned it to I to release the steering lock.

Installation for me was easier as I had an existing alarm. I just reused the wires that were already tapped. I did notice a battery drain after leaving the car in the garage for a few weeks untouched. I will need to time how long it can sit between drives to avoid a dead battery.

Oh, thats right you can also do that, keep a blank key in steering column unlock position. That is way less work then what I did. It makes sense, good idea! Too late for me, spend whole day trying to figure out how to remove the ignition switch. The locking pin on top got me, but was easy to remove once I learned there was locking pin holding the entire ignition switch assembly, lol. If someone is saving some weight, the thing was like 2.5lb

I want it! For $55.99 it is a steal. One concern would be how durable / reliable is the equipment, including how does one add an extra keyfob? Then again, I've been with one, non working keyfob for the better part of 20 years, so maybe that part doesn't matter.

There is a service button that you press to learn new key fab, I think max it can hold is five but it comes with two keyfabs. The only thing is I was not able to find key fabs alone for sale to keep as spare. Maybe at this price if one want to have extra key fabs would get two systems and just use the key fabs from the second box ;)
 
Just had the key blade made and pinned in the fab housing. It’s good to have as backup to get in to the car at list.

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This looks awesome! Very modern! I'm assuming there's no trunk pop though?

Yes, it has trunk pop. For trunk release in disarm mode need to hold unlock button for 5 seconds.

The only thing to wire trunk release need additional generic relay since the PKE controls it over negative cable and nsx is using positive cable. I didn't get to it but it should work.
 
Does this activate the factory alarm system or is it strictly a keyless entry system?

This is only for car entry, but I think it can be wired for alarm to get turned on/off using extra relay. I did not have factory alarm system installed and only use it as car entry system.
 
I was just thinking about doing this too, since I have the entire car disassembled right now and easy access, but integrating it with the factory security system. This is really clever! Why not just remove the entire key lock cylinder? Weight reduction! :D

I would go with this one, as it has a dedicated trunk pop button.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCCK4JT/ref=emc_b_5_t
 
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The middle button is the trunk release even tho it’s labelled as remote start. All the kits from Easyguard have the same features, just different style key fobs and different style push buttons.


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The middle button is the trunk release even tho it’s labelled as remote start. All the kits from Easyguard have the same features, just different style key fobs and different style push buttons.


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For me the middle button is the panic button
 
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I was just thinking about doing this too, since I have the entire car disassembled right now and easy access, but integrating it with the factory security system. This is really clever! Why not just remove the entire key lock cylinder? Weight reduction! :D

I would go with this one, as it has a dedicated trunk pop button.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCCK4JT/ref=emc_b_5_t

Yea, I removed my entire key lock cylinder. Nice find I did not see this unit, I like the idea of dedicated trunk release button too. On my I press and hold the unlock button. The middle button on my is the panic button, maybe it can be somehow reprogram to trunk release but I'm not going to complain, it's still works fine. I'll try to do a review after long time using it. One thing that I notice when it's around 0F to 10F the car will not start with first crank, only way to start the car is to press and hold the start button and release it when you hear the engine running, it's no biggie but wanted to let others know. Also when you have a fab in your packet and work in garage close to the car or washing it, it will constantly lock and unlock as you get close and go far, I made sure I keep by fab either inside the car or on the table so it does not cycle, it gets annoying. Other then that is awesome mod.
 
Yea, I removed my entire key lock cylinder. Nice find I did not see this unit, I like the idea of dedicated trunk release button too. On my I press and hold the unlock button. The middle button on my is the panic button, maybe it can be somehow reprogram to trunk release but I'm not going to complain, it's still works fine. I'll try to do a review after long time using it. One thing that I notice when it's around 0F to 10F the car will not start with first crank, only way to start the car is to press and hold the start button and release it when you hear the engine running, it's no biggie but wanted to let others know. Also when you have a fab in your packet and work in garage close to the car or washing it, it will constantly lock and unlock as you get close and go far, I made sure I keep by fab either inside the car or on the table so it does not cycle, it gets annoying. Other then that is awesome mod.

I noticed you can switch the PKE on/off on the control unit, so that solves it for me. The real trick is to figure out how to get it to arm and disarm the factory security system at the same time it locks and unlocks the doors. In the 91 keyless thread, [MENTION=18698]NSX-Files[/MENTION] mentioned the red and yellow wires from the OEM keyless brain being the arm and disarm signals for the security unit. It was never confirmed, however. I want to figure out a way to make this seamless- cutting/splicing no wires and making my own harness from junkyard Honda plugs.
 
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I noticed you can switch the PKE on/off on the control unit, so that solves it for me. The real trick is to figure out how to get it to arm and disarm the factory security system at the same time it locks and unlocks the doors. In the 91 keyless thread, @nsxfiles mentioned the red and yellow wires from the OEM keyless brain being the arm and disarm signals for the security unit. It was never confirmed, however. I want to figure out a way to make this seamless- cutting/splicing no wires and making my own harness from junkyard Honda plugs.

Keep us posted if you ever figure out how to arm/disarm the factory security unit.
 
I noticed you can switch the PKE on/off on the control unit, so that solves it for me. The real trick is to figure out how to get it to arm and disarm the factory security system at the same time it locks and unlocks the doors. In the 91 keyless thread, @NSX-Files mentioned the red and yellow wires from the OEM keyless brain being the arm and disarm signals for the security unit. It was never confirmed, however. I want to figure out a way to make this seamless- cutting/splicing no wires and making my own harness from junkyard Honda plugs.

according to [MENTION=5430]drew[/MENTION] in post#20

Arm/Disarm is 12V to Ground, momentary. Arm = Red, DisArm = Yellow

The doors and engine compartment switch go from 12V to Ground as long as they are open. If the doors/engine compartment are closed = 12V. (actually they are Battery Voltage, everything seems to be 12V).

Un/Lock request is 12V to Ground, momentary, this flips the door lock relay

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/201894-OEM-keyless-entry-harness-schematic
 
I have more information here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...yless-Solved?p=2008386&viewfull=1#post2008386

The OEM keyless will only fire if 1) Key is not in ignition (BLU/GRN = 12V) and 2) Driver door is Closed (GRN/BLU = 12V)

If those two conditions are met: it will flip states either A) Arm and Locked *OR* B) DisArmed and UnLocked, by sending to ground the pair of wires.

What I don't know is the timing of the Arm and Lock or the DisArm/UnLock requests. I would presume they are fired at the same time as they are independat systems.

Which likely means is that a cheap $15 keyless should be able to patch into the OEM vehicle harness: LOCK means to have relay Ground vehicle LOCK and ARM at the same time. And UnLock means to have the relay Ground UNLOCK and DISARM at the same time. A less quick and dirty method would be to test for the presence of the key and position of doors...which I would presume there is a sense wire on the keyless for such a thing (dome light on etc...).
 
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