• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Recommendations on an air/fuel meter?

One other option is the Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge. Does not come with the sensor, but priced at $50-$60 for the Gauge.


Originally posted by sjs:
One of the Split Second products is an air/fuel meter and matching heated sensor. Looks pretty good, compact, and not outrageously priced.
http://www.Splitsec.com/

Can anyone suggest a better one?
 
Originally posted by 19inchNSX:
One other option is the Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge. Does not come with the sensor, but priced at $50-$60 for the Gauge.

Thanks. I was just looking at those. They have 10 and 20 LED gauges. Their sensor runs about $90, so the combo is reasonable. Too bad they only come in standard round format.

Perhaps I'll just build my own display. That way I can make it fit where I want it and have two modes, wide band, and a narrower band for better resolution at WOT. It will take a while to calibrate, but then I'll have exactly what I want.
 
I have 2 digital AF auto meters for my NOS setup that cost $60 each. If anything, it gives it that night rider look in the compartment.
smile.gif
 
Brand is Autometer. Digital was all they had when I went to buy some. It's a circular pattern with first third red, second yellow, last green... being lean, stoic, rich.
They only read correctly when at WOT and cycle back and forth the rest of the time, like the night rider light.
If you needed precision, this may not be a good way to go. In my case, I just need them to make sure they are always in the RICH while injecting the gas.
 
The only *true* a/f guage runs using a wideband 5+ wire o2 sensor. Using a gauge that uses the factory o2 sensor is basically useless. These sensors sweep generally up to 1.5 volts. They are ONLY used in the ecu's closed loop operation for emmisions purposes. It keeps emmisions under control by sweeping back and forth between rich and lean. You can't get any reading from that o2 other then its not stoich. Unless you buy a horiba lambda meter or some other expensive 5volt wideband o2 setup (~$2k+). Dont bother wasting your money on a cheap a/f gauge!

------------------
jack of all trades, master of some.
 
The one by Motec is awesome if you have the budget. Its called PLM. It provides an accurate wide band lambda trace across the fuel maps for faster more accurate tuning. The new model is cheaper than previous model from Motec, but its still $1270. Here is a link. http://www.motec.com.au/plm.htm


Originally posted by nsxhk:
So... what's the conclusion? Which one is a good air/fuel meter??

Henry.
 
Well, while the control units of these high end a/f systems are expensive, a lot of the price is from the actual sensor itself. Not many companies make these ultra sensitive sensors, and the few that do charge $300-$600 each. The typical type of sensors used in most cars can be bought for $20-$50.


Originally posted by nsxhk:
Wow! over 1k for a air/fuel gauge? There must be other alternatives, right?

Henry.
 
True sums it up pretty well. Actually unless you are capable of changing the fuel mixture or seriously modifying any car an A/F meter will do you no good. Especially the A/F by Autometer. The NSX is a very advanced and expensive automobile already and relying on a $60 gauge after installing a $10,000 S/C or TT kit would be absurd! There is a relatively priced(under$450)precision A/F meter from Japan that I have used for many years and on several different types of turbo applications. It's made by Tomei meters and reads between 9:1(rich) thru 17:1(lean). Available in as a standard type dial/needle faced meter available in a 60mm white or black face.
 
i didn't mention previously...but anyone who's into DIY (do it yourself), there is a diy wideband project that has just been completed. After almost 5 years this underground ultra elite EFI/FI community has put together a true wideband sensor for under 200 bucks! the amazing thing is that 175 bucks of that is the sensor itself. Honda used the NTK 5 wire wideband o2 sensor in its lean burn 92-95 civic vx's. If anyone is interested in building one, visit http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/projects/diy_wb/ I just recieved my pc board and will be ordering the parts kit soon. This 20 dollar circuit has already been put up against the legendary lambda meter by horiba (~3k) and the output was near identical. I'm extremely excited... should be soldering it up next week sometime. :]

------------------
jack of all trades, master of some.
 
Originally posted by true:
The only *true* a/f guage runs using a wideband 5+ wire o2 sensor. Using a gauge that uses the factory o2 sensor is basically useless. These sensors sweep generally up to 1.5 volts. They are ONLY used in the ecu's closed loop operation for emmisions purposes. It keeps emmisions under control by sweeping back and forth between rich and lean. You can't get any reading from that o2 other then its not stoich. Unless you buy a horiba lambda meter or some other expensive 5volt wideband o2 setup (~$2k+). Dont bother wasting your money on a cheap a/f gauge!

I had no intention of using the OEM sensor, but you are saying that the dedicated sensors from Autometer and others are useless? As for trusting my NSX to a $200 gauge & sensor, is it worse than no indication at all? Absurd is $1500-$3000 for a gauge.
 
Originally posted by true:
i didn't mention previously...but anyone who's into DIY (do it yourself), there is a diy wideband project that has just been completed. After almost 5 years this underground ultra elite EFI/FI community has put together a true wideband sensor for under 200 bucks! the amazing thing is that 175 bucks of that is the sensor itself. Honda used the NTK 5 wire wideband o2 sensor in its lean burn 92-95 civic vx's. If anyone is interested in building one, visit http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/projects/diy_wb/ I just recieved my pc board and will be ordering the parts kit soon. This 20 dollar circuit has already been put up against the legendary lambda meter by horiba (~3k) and the output was near identical. I'm extremely excited... should be soldering it up next week sometime. :]

Hey thanks! I'll look into that this evening.
 
Back
Top