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Service Bulletin #93007 - door lock problem

Joined
14 November 2006
Messages
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Location
Lake Worth, FL
Has anyone ever heard of this Technical Service Bulletin or know anything about it?

TSB
1992
Service Bulletin # 93007
NHTSA # 39402
Date of Bulletin: 11/1995 4/1993

*Unlocking the door sets off the car alarm.

http://www.obd-codes.com/tsb/1992/acura/nsx/
http://repairpal.com/cars/acura/nsx


Occasionally when I unlock my car on the drivers side the alarm will go off. I have to unlock the car again from the passenger side to make the alarm stop. However the alarm will never go off if I unlock the car from the passenger side.

Any ideas?
 
I've had this happen to my car a number of times but I never thought to check for a TSB. I just figured I didn't know all the parameters of the lock/alarm system and I was the one at fault.
 
I've had this happen to my car a number of times but I never thought to check for a TSB. I just figured I didn't know all the parameters of the lock/alarm system and I was the one at fault.
How did you fix it or is it intermittent?

Does the TSB mean a dealership will fix it for free?
 
My 92 did this a few years ago. As far as I know, TSB are not covered for free by dealers. It's not like a recall......no one's life or safety is at risk because of the problem.

I followed the TSB: removed, opened and cleaned the door lock sensor/switch. Kind of a pain to get to.

From what I remember, the switch is basically sealed and is not supposed to come apart. It's recommend to buy a new switch. I forced mine open and then glued it back together....its been working fine.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/tsb/93-007.htm

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/antitheft-keyless.htm
 
My 92 did this a few years ago. As far as I know, TSB are not covered for free by dealers. It's not like a recall......no one's life or safety is at risk because of the problem.

I followed the TSB: removed, opened and cleaned the door lock sensor/switch. Kind of a pain to get to.

From what I remember, the switch is basically sealed and is not supposed to come apart. It's recommend to buy a new switch. I forced mine open and then glued it back together....its been working fine.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/tsb/93-007.htm

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/antitheft-keyless.htm
So is the switch a 2pc glued together housing that you opened? What/How did you clean inside it? Was there corrosion or buildup of any kind?
 
I never fixed mine, I just let it go off on the rare occasion that I open the wrong door in the wrong way on the wrong day, like I said, I don't know all the parameters. I'll bring it in though, now that I know it's a TSB. I don't mind paying a little to have it fixed, the dang car is pretty cheap to operate anyhow. :wink:
 
So is the switch a 2pc glued together housing that you opened? What/How did you clean inside it? Was there corrosion or buildup of any kind?

Mine was intermittent for awhile but quickly got worse. Before I fixed it, the horn would go off almost every other time I opened the door. Quite embarrassing at a crowded street or a parking lot.

From what I vaguely remember, it's a glued 2pc 'sandwich' housing. I think there were some tabs that held it together too that broke on mine....but i can't remember for sure.

Definitely some buildup of dirt/corrosion on the contacts. Simply wiped off the crude and lightly sanded the contacts. I applied a little dielectric grease afterwords.

I would say the hardest part is taking apart the door and getting to the switch.
 
ZXTEC is right, mine did the same thing, I forced mine apart and then hot melted it back after cleaning the contacts with a fine grit sandpaper.

now it hasnt done it for almost a year.

but when both doors failed and my only option was to open the hood while the alram was going off and cut the wires going to all 3 horns are blairing

and find the right fuse to pull my head starts ringing when i talk about it.

it was 4 in the morning just got home from a club had been drinking not a good situation. LOL

after taming the beast I figured it was those contacts. so I took both door apart and removed the switch. cleaned it reinstalled. But

there is this metal pin that hold it in place once removed it will not go back in. so I used a paperclip and bent it like a cotter pin to keep it snug.

took about 1 hour on the first door and 15 minutes to do the other door, as the first door was the test door LOL, did this fix with-out breaking anything else. LOL as I like to break object off in fustration LOL

reconnected all the horns and bang bang bang done.

Dont buy the new one just fix the old one save a few bucks.

or buy the new one fix it yourself save bucks on labor as it will probably be around 600-800 bucks
 
Last edited:
ZXTEC is right, mine did the same thing, I forced mine apart and then hot melted it back after cleaning the contacts with a fine grit sandpaper.

now it hasnt done it for almost a year.

but when both doors failed and my only option was to open the hood while the alram was going off and cut the wires going to all 3 horns are blairing

and find the right fuse to pull my head starts ringing when i talk about it.

it was 4 in the morning just got home from a club had been drinking not a good situation. LOL

after taming the beast I figured it was those contacts. so I took both door apart and removed the switch. cleaned it reinstalled. But

there is this metal pin that hold it in place once removed it will not go back in. so I used a paperclip and bent it like a cotter pin to keep it snug.

took about 1 hour on the first door and 15 minutes to do the other door, as the first door was the test door LOL, did this fix with-out breaking anything else. LOL as I like to break object off in fustration LOL

reconnected all the horns and bang bang bang done.

Dont buy the new one just fix the old one save a few bucks.

or buy the new one fix it yourself save bucks on labor as it will probably be around 600-800 bucks
Sorry to bump an old thread, but which contacts do you clean the corrosion off of?

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/tsb/tsb-93-007-b.gif
 
My car does the same thing, so I just stopped using the remote to lock the doors. This spring I am going to take it in and have this fixed.

I was not a big fan of setting off the alarm at random times, so I went the manual route with the key in the door:mad:
 
wow this is an old thread bump. LOL

ok when you finally get the part out that needs to be replaced

use a flat head screwwdriver to pry the thing open. some plastic will break but I will get to that in a second.

once you have teh device open you will see there are these prongs that rub against the connection. you will see that there is a white corrosion on the surface. I took 3200 Grit sand paper, you can uyse anything really to polish this surface back to shiny new. hell you can even use the screwdriver to scrap off the stuff. after you do this you will have to figure out how the device is re-assembled. when yuo do this you will notice that the prongs are bent by design, well bend them out a little more so that they make an even stronger contact. you will know what i mean when you see it. then reassemble. what I did was got some model glue and glued it back together, then followed up with some black electrical tape to put a good seal around the edges to the device.

then the cotterpic thingy which you can not get back inside for the life of you. I decided to use a paperclip cut to length to fit back into the slot and then you bend the paperclip so it will never fall out. and you done. I would just go ahead an do both doors as the other door will probably not be far behind in failing.

any questions PM me its been awhile but I am usually on top of my game LOL
 
I just performed this TSB on my driver's side door because unlocking the door with the key would cause the horn to honk. The TSB says to remove the entire window, track and lock from the car. I was able to replace the switch while leaving everything else in the door. It's a tight squeeze but do-able with a small screwdriver. When inserting the door lock switch rod back into the actuating arm, I found it easier to fold the retaining clip and insert it through the actuating rod and into the door lock switch. Then push the switch rod into the retaining clip. In such a tight space, it's nearly impossible to push the rod with the clip already attached into the arm and switch.
 
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