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Several variations of Mobile1 Synthetic 10W30 to choose from

Joined
10 October 2004
Messages
76
Location
Oklahoma
Hello everyone... which would you choose?
There are several variations of Mobile1 Synthetic 10W30 to choose from.
My 1991 Automatic NSX has 89K

All choices are Mobile 1 Synthetic 10W30

A.) 10W30 Synthetic

B.) 10W30 Synthetic {75k+ High Mileage} (says it has engine seal additive to prevent leaks).

C.) 10W30 Synthetic {15,000 Mile Extended Life}


As for B). Will the seal additive in the 75k+ High Mileage 10W30 hurt any internals or titanium parts in my engine? Even though I do not have any leaks, is this a good idea? I would think it might be better to know if I have a leak so I can address the seal, instead of trying to hide the possibility of such. Again, I have no leaks that I know of.

As for C). I am wondering if this additive has additional beneficial lubrication properties.

Regardless of choice, I still plan to change the oil at 3,000 miles. Or do you recommend a sooner or later interval change.

Thanks for your help
 
Mobil 1 is marketed very well.

There are better synthetic oils out there.

I'm currently using Pennzoil Platinum since it's just $20 for 5 quarts at Walmart and for this month there is a $15 gift card each (limited 2).

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Mobil 1 is marketed very well.

There are better synthetic oils out there.

I'm currently using Pennzoil Platinum since it's just $20 for 5 quarts at Walmart and for this month there is a $15 gift card each (limited 2).

sso_4ball_large.gif

Thanks! I was wondering what the deal was. I saw them moving ALL of that product over to a different hidden end cap but no price tags!

I just dropped in 5.5 of Royal-P though. Wonder how much of a rip that stuff is. Still got 2.5 quarts left.
 
As Batmans stated just go with the Pennzoil.Its good stuff its what I use.It seems not to breakdown or burn off.Its all about the additives that make it a good oil.Its the only syn we use in our shops anymore.
 
So why is everyone going to 5W-30 when the owners manual calls for 10W-30?
 
If u have a fat wallet the best is 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series.

The 0 weight will pump faster to the dry parts than anything.

Yeah, but VERY scared it'd be too THIN! Plus in California, I doubt it'd go to zero weight vicosity unless you're in the snowy sierras in winter.
 
If u have a fat wallet the best is 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series.

The 0 weight will pump faster to the dry parts than anything.

how much will a quart of this cost?

A quart of mobil 1 costs roughly $6.99 at Autozone/Pep Boys..
 
I have a question about the chart attached by BATMANs. If the testing was done by an independent lab, why isn't the lab's name on the chart?

I've spent a career in testing and requirements (but in telecommunications) so I'm attuned to companies "overstating" their case. I'm not sure what use a chart is without traceability. Also, since my experience is in telecom, how does ASTM D-4172 relate to wear on an engine undergoing normal stop/start/parked-in-the-garage cycles?

I'm not defending any of the oils, but I simply get zero information out of that chart until someone can give me a bit more information.
 
Back to the OP's question.

It's hard to tell WHAT additive they use to prevent the seals. BUT my main question is: why don't they use it in all the other oils?! Is it just a marketing gag? Having the additive and knowing that there's no free lunch WHAT are the backsides of it?

I'd go with the normal one. As you intend to change it every 3k miles (which is a waste of money for itself :)) the 'extended mile life' is even more a waste of money. :)
 
the 'seal swelling' additives are meant for the loose-tolerance american clunkers usually leaking from main seals, not your precision engine. if you have no oil leaks now, chances are you will not have them in the future (unless you take something apart in which case you will use new seals anyway) and you may actually create leaks by inducing seal swell. the best thing ALWAYS is to use the oil type (not only viscosity) that is specified by the manufacturer as it is formulated in a way that its byproducts do not dissolve/deteriorate the rubber seals over time - a simple example is use of incorrect brake fluid which then destroys your master cylinder seals etc.
 
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