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Something keeps blowing the main 120Amp Fuse...?

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Well after thinking my alarm was stuck in kill/on mode, I dont think that was it when replacing my battery.

With the help of another member here I noticed I blew the main120amp block fuse in the engine compartment.
Ordered one at the dealer and got it today. Put everything back to normal, pos. on 1st then neg. I always hear the door lock go off when I attach the negative terminal.

Same symptoms- solid front parking lights and I'm sure the horn was blaring (fuse is out)...nothing still works...go back to the eng. compartment the 120amp new fuse is blown....this is getting bad...gotta wait another day to order one at the dealer....any help, maybe leave the fuse out for the alarm?
 
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OK- super embarassing post of the year. I just noticed my battery is in BACKWARDS. at least I think I know the problem.

Now my real question is could I of done some real major damage having it hooked up like this while I tried to start the car? or fiddle around with the electrical? the main was fuse was blown by then... (crossing fingers)
 
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Wow, that is horrible. Are you sure that the battery terminals were connected to the right places? I know you would have been very careful this time around, but to blow a 120 amp fuse takes a real bad short or the battery terminals were reversed. The only thing NOT FUSED in the diagram that has the 120 amp fuse between is the alternator.

So as I understand it, I can only think of 2 scenarios left in which the fuse could blow.
1. Wire to alternator is shorted out.
2. The fuse box is shorted out somehow (not even sure if this is possible and extremely unlikely).
2a. You have enough accessories shorted out to pull over 120a current (very unlikely)

Just do a sanity check and make sure the terminals were connected properly. + to + and - to -. Bring a flashlight and make sure you were looking at it right. If they were in the right places, then the situation is pretty ugly. You'll need to check for a short and fix the short.

The alarm will not be able to pull 120 amps to pop the fuse so pulling that will not help.
 
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Ok saw your 2nd post after replying, PHEW!

With the terminals reversed, most posts I've read about have just been blowing the 120 amp fuse. Could other things be damaged? Possibly, but let's still keep the fingers crossed.

What a great experience you've had in the past few days! :)
 
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I usually connect the negative terminal first but I guess it does not matter as long as you connect it right.....good luck and I hope everything is working when you connect it again.
 
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I've reversed the cables before and nothing happened to me...guess I got lucky :redface:

link

On a different note, and until you can figure things out, is there any way you can wire another non-OEM 120 amp fuse in series with the main fuse so you blow the main fuse? If so, this will allow you to t/s and not have to keep buying the main fuse.
 
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We see reversed battery cables all the time. The main fuse blows and ususally the clock fuse, so check it as well. It is the only 7.5A (brown) fuse in the front fuse box. 1TITENSX didn't get lucky, nor did you-
you got design!!

MB
 
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thanks for the support! I was so bummed about the car in general I didnt double check stuff....how crazy. Have to wait one more day for the fuse to come in from the local dealer....

OK so we will do positive first and then negative second....I should write this down...
I just hope leaving it on like this and cranking the motor didnt do any damage electrically.
 
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NSXTech said:
We see reversed battery cables all the time. The main fuse blows and ususally the clock fuse, so check it as well. It is the only 7.5A (brown) fuse in the front fuse box. 1TITENSX didn't get lucky, nor did you-
you got design!!

MB

Mark,

Now I know why my clock fuse was blown :biggrin:
 
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