Please do! It was -35 C this morning so I am kind of trapped inside currently spending time trying to debug some uncooperative C++ code. Any distraction is welcome!
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Stranded: 2000 nsx
- Thread starter Mark Deffendall
- Start date
I haven’t personally done a history of the car but the Prime member that I purchased it did. He owns a red 97 and a silver 2005 and as of yesterday is still interested in buying this car back. I don’t think this is a flood car.
Hi Old Guy,
I have a couple of things to ask you as I start back on my car repair. When I hooked up the extended circuit for the fuel gauge, I chose the fuse panel on the driver side kick panel. It has a small triangular removable cover and holds fuses for SRS1 , SRS2/fuel pump, heater control/rear defroster etc. Because there was more room for the expandable circuit fuse holder, I chose the SRS1 location. When the ignition switch is on or the engine is running, the fuel pump gauge works fine but the SRS1 dashboard light is on. The light goes out if I take the temporary expandable circuit out and replace the original fuse. Instructions for the gauge say not to use a fuse location larger than 10 AMPS. Is the dashboard SRS1 light something I should be concerned about during the course of this test?
In your earlier response about taking the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump resistor out of the equation, you mentioned using a “suitable shunt.” Is that is a fused jumper wire as described in the NSX ’97-’02 electrical trouble-shooting manual?
I did find the location of the fuel pump resistor and a thread that mentioned one owner solving a similar problem with a bad or corroded connection at the fuel pump resistor connector. However, I didn’t find a thread on how to by-pass the resistor. Do I unplug the fuel pump resistor plug then jump the 2-pin female terminal (Red/Black Yellow/Black) with the fused jumper wire? The manual indicates that if it starts, replace the fuel pump resistor.
Lastly, you said that when I check for voltage to the fuel pump during the 2-3 second prime pulse, I can do a test for voltage at the fuel pump by-pass resistor plug. Is this the same plug in the prior paragraph? If not, where is it? If they are the same, I just put a volt meter on it to test for 12 Volts instead of the fuseable shunt?
Sorry to ask such basic questions. I’m trying to go slowly so I get it right.
Mark
I have a couple of things to ask you as I start back on my car repair. When I hooked up the extended circuit for the fuel gauge, I chose the fuse panel on the driver side kick panel. It has a small triangular removable cover and holds fuses for SRS1 , SRS2/fuel pump, heater control/rear defroster etc. Because there was more room for the expandable circuit fuse holder, I chose the SRS1 location. When the ignition switch is on or the engine is running, the fuel pump gauge works fine but the SRS1 dashboard light is on. The light goes out if I take the temporary expandable circuit out and replace the original fuse. Instructions for the gauge say not to use a fuse location larger than 10 AMPS. Is the dashboard SRS1 light something I should be concerned about during the course of this test?
In your earlier response about taking the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump resistor out of the equation, you mentioned using a “suitable shunt.” Is that is a fused jumper wire as described in the NSX ’97-’02 electrical trouble-shooting manual?
I did find the location of the fuel pump resistor and a thread that mentioned one owner solving a similar problem with a bad or corroded connection at the fuel pump resistor connector. However, I didn’t find a thread on how to by-pass the resistor. Do I unplug the fuel pump resistor plug then jump the 2-pin female terminal (Red/Black Yellow/Black) with the fused jumper wire? The manual indicates that if it starts, replace the fuel pump resistor.
Lastly, you said that when I check for voltage to the fuel pump during the 2-3 second prime pulse, I can do a test for voltage at the fuel pump by-pass resistor plug. Is this the same plug in the prior paragraph? If not, where is it? If they are the same, I just put a volt meter on it to test for 12 Volts instead of the fuseable shunt?
Sorry to ask such basic questions. I’m trying to go slowly so I get it right.
Mark
Expandable circuit fuse holder - do you mean one of these things?
https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-ATO-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F92QC9D4G0HC9GAG7G42
If the SRS light is on with the expandable fuse holder in place, I am going to make an educated guess that you have killed power to the SRS controller. That means no air bags or seat belt pre tensioners so not a good thing. The expandable fuse holder has two fuse slots. One for the original fuse and the other for the fuse for the accessory that you are adding. When you stuck the expandable fuse holder in the slot, did you remember to plug the original 10 A SRS fuse into the vacant slot on the fuse holder? If you did, then something is up with your holder and I definitely would not be leaving it in place. Personally I would use fuse position #3 which should be vacant on your car since it is for the DRL system. That way if something is messed up with the adapter you are not affecting anything that is critical. It should still have switched 12 v in that position. Don't worry about the 10 amp fuse requirement. The fuse for the glow shift is the fuse in the adapter which you should have set at around 4 amps.
My electrical trouble shooting manual and paper version of my service manual is locked up in the NSX's trunk in secure storage so I can't reference it, so I am working from the 1991 .pdf version on the NSXPrime site. Page 11-106 of the 1991 manual (fuel section) just refers to a jumper, not a fused jumper. A fused jumper seems like overkill because the circuit is already fused. Have a look at page 11-106 just to confirm that we are talking about the same thing.
"Do I unplug the fuel pump resistor plug then jump the 2-pin female terminal (Red/Black Yellow/Black) with the fused jumper wire? "
Yes. When you unplug the resistor, the fuel pump will not start up. You jumper the two pins on the wiring harness side of the plug (not the side of the plug connected to the resistor). This gives a direct connection from the output of the main FI relay to the pump terminals. I would use a short section of wire with small alligator clips on either end for the jumper, or if you can find a plug that matches the plug on the fuel pump resistor you could use it to fabricate a shunt.
Is this the same plug in the prior paragraph? If not, where is it? If they are the same, I just put a volt meter on it to test for 12 Volts instead of the fuseable shunt?
Yes. With the shunt in place you just need to access either terminal in the plug to get a voltage measurement to ground. You can also do this with the shunt removed and the resistor plugged back in. You would need to back-probe the blk/yel wire in the plug to test for +12v. If you back-probe the other wire the voltage will be less than 12 v because of the voltage drop caused by the resistor. You can drive around with the resistor by-passed, your pump will just be running faster than normal at low speeds and the pressure regulator will be by-passing more fuel.
When doing testing, tape up or otherwise secure the wiring so that stuff is not flopping around and potentially shorting out.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-ATO-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F92QC9D4G0HC9GAG7G42
If the SRS light is on with the expandable fuse holder in place, I am going to make an educated guess that you have killed power to the SRS controller. That means no air bags or seat belt pre tensioners so not a good thing. The expandable fuse holder has two fuse slots. One for the original fuse and the other for the fuse for the accessory that you are adding. When you stuck the expandable fuse holder in the slot, did you remember to plug the original 10 A SRS fuse into the vacant slot on the fuse holder? If you did, then something is up with your holder and I definitely would not be leaving it in place. Personally I would use fuse position #3 which should be vacant on your car since it is for the DRL system. That way if something is messed up with the adapter you are not affecting anything that is critical. It should still have switched 12 v in that position. Don't worry about the 10 amp fuse requirement. The fuse for the glow shift is the fuse in the adapter which you should have set at around 4 amps.
My electrical trouble shooting manual and paper version of my service manual is locked up in the NSX's trunk in secure storage so I can't reference it, so I am working from the 1991 .pdf version on the NSXPrime site. Page 11-106 of the 1991 manual (fuel section) just refers to a jumper, not a fused jumper. A fused jumper seems like overkill because the circuit is already fused. Have a look at page 11-106 just to confirm that we are talking about the same thing.
"Do I unplug the fuel pump resistor plug then jump the 2-pin female terminal (Red/Black Yellow/Black) with the fused jumper wire? "
Yes. When you unplug the resistor, the fuel pump will not start up. You jumper the two pins on the wiring harness side of the plug (not the side of the plug connected to the resistor). This gives a direct connection from the output of the main FI relay to the pump terminals. I would use a short section of wire with small alligator clips on either end for the jumper, or if you can find a plug that matches the plug on the fuel pump resistor you could use it to fabricate a shunt.
Is this the same plug in the prior paragraph? If not, where is it? If they are the same, I just put a volt meter on it to test for 12 Volts instead of the fuseable shunt?
Yes. With the shunt in place you just need to access either terminal in the plug to get a voltage measurement to ground. You can also do this with the shunt removed and the resistor plugged back in. You would need to back-probe the blk/yel wire in the plug to test for +12v. If you back-probe the other wire the voltage will be less than 12 v because of the voltage drop caused by the resistor. You can drive around with the resistor by-passed, your pump will just be running faster than normal at low speeds and the pressure regulator will be by-passing more fuel.
When doing testing, tape up or otherwise secure the wiring so that stuff is not flopping around and potentially shorting out.
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