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Suspension Tuning: How to set Rebound and Compression

RYU

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I'm wandered into the world of 2-way dampers. I tried to avoid it for so long but my curiosity got the best of me. I feel like i'm learning all over again.

Anyone have any tips on how to adjust Rebound and Compression? I've heard from many folks that once you get the Compression setting right you rarely touch it again. How do you get your compression right?



I've been reading articles and this seems to be the best "How To" from Koni. My butt dyno sucks so hoping to hear some advice from folks here.



Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Road Course Use


Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control





Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.





Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.





1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.



2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.

NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.



3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.



4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.



NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.





Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control

Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.





It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.







1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.



2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.





EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.

My dampers are JRZ RS Pros
2 way (Rebound and Compression)
Front Spring Rate 11K / 616lbs | Dali Racing Track bar on medium setting
Rear Spring Rate 9K / 504lbs | Zanardi OEM sway bar

if anyone has any baseline settings, i'd love to know about them
 
Hopefully Coz can chime in. He sent me a great email explaining it with diagrams and graphs to help. Although I haven't changed my setup "since he recommended my spring rates, sway, compression and rebound", it's a great document to have since it helps you understand and dial things out the way you want your car. Maybe he'll chime in or if you PM me your email address I'll forward it onto you.
 
Hopefully Coz can chime in. He sent me a great email explaining it with diagrams and graphs to help. Although I haven't changed my setup "since he recommended my spring rates, sway, compression and rebound", it's a great document to have since it helps you understand and dial things out the way you want your car. Maybe he'll chime in or if you PM me your email address I'll forward it onto you.

steve you still got the diagrams and graphs? could you send them to me? i need to get my car align and corner balance before the winter
 
Actually I'm also busy with suspension fine tuning too with my 2 way system.
2 way dampers allows fine adjustment, think my Bilsteins are on the same level. (maybe a bit higher, dont have experience with the JRZ)

I would recomment to start the adjustment of rebound and compression into the middle position on each of the external adjusters.

When I do tests at the Nordschleife, I always starts with that.
My 2 way high end dampers works fine that way, rear is perfect, front rebound too, than I start to play with a softer rebound.

Thats for track use, but Nordschleife is very bumpy and no flat GP circuit.

Finally you can be sure that common spring rates like 100/80 kg, 110/90kg or simular setups are not really setups for the racetrack, maybe for track days.

The HRE NSX-R race car used 18'' BBS rims front and rear, 1 inch adjustable sways bars and 220kg front and 180 kg rear main springs ( at the bumpy Nordschleife)


BTW....
Ryu, why did you changed the DG5 suspension against the JRZ?
 
Last edited:
Regan,
maybe you know this, you should have Erik Messley to set up your car once you have the JRZ. He is local in Huntington Beach. He is a long time Penske guy(but will set up other dampers) and does mostly high end race cars and sports cars. He is a one man show and doesn't need to advertise and gets plenty of work and hard to get hold of but its worth it. He is one of those mad skills kinda guy and has a long racing history as well.

My phone is: Seven one Four, 713- nine zero nine six. or you can always directly contact me via email at :
[email protected]
 
Thanks guys. Ryan recommended Eric as well. I might give him a call next season. Good news is that I've had some decent seat time on the JRZs now and I'm getting comfortable adjusting them and learning the range. Still so much to learn though.

I sold my DG5s to a close friend and wanted to try a set of two ways. I'm many ways I still like the DG5s more but it is primary due to the simplicity of the 1-way. If I could do it over again I'd have kept the DG5s but still happy with the JRZs. I think once I learn these coilovers more it has much more potential.
 
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