It's not the break down of the oil that should be your concern, rather the "crap" that makes it dirty. Rule of thumb, run synthetic and only change it when the dipstick turns dirty.... it's the suspended "crap" that the filter cannot remove that gets to your bearings etc... unless you get the motor very hot, you probably wont run long enough to break premium oils down. Rather the dirt factor will get you first. Old organic based oils used to form acids and wax which were not too good for your internals. New formulas use much more sophisticated viscosity stabilizers and are formulated for higher temps. Again, it's a personal choice, but as most mentioned.. I use Mobile 1 in all of my vehicles and haven't looked back. Or worried for that matter. I change the oil when it looks dirty... no mileage worries, just grit.
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Synthetic Vs Oem Oil
- Thread starter DCORBIN
- Start date
Oil change intervals!!! You want to hear some scary crap. We have some new police tahoes here and the oil change light comes on between 7/8000 miles. A lot of newer vehicles now have "oil change" indicator lights. That makes it very hard when your old school like me.
To cancel the oil change indicater light in our Yukon you would have to put the key in the ignition, turn it to the first or second click(when the dash lights come on prior to starting), then pump the accelerator pedal 3 times, then turn the key off.
Why would you change the oil more often than every 7,500 miles (and the filter every 15,000!), as recommended by the Owner's Manual service schedule?
I suspect the superb engineers who designed this fine engine know a thing or two about maintaining it.
[This is a rhetorical question, and doesn't really need an answer since I know some owner's insist on perpetuating the "every 3,000 miles" myth forced on us by dealerships and jiffy lubes looking to make more money...]
/puts on fireproof coveralls...
D&L
'04 Rio Yellow / Black
I suspect the superb engineers who designed this fine engine know a thing or two about maintaining it.
[This is a rhetorical question, and doesn't really need an answer since I know some owner's insist on perpetuating the "every 3,000 miles" myth forced on us by dealerships and jiffy lubes looking to make more money...]
/puts on fireproof coveralls...
D&L
'04 Rio Yellow / Black
^^^^Because we are paranoid. It makes us think our NSX will last forever.
So many Honda's are getting over 300,000 miles on regular oil and run great.
Synthetic oil is a waste of money unless you have a turbo, heat issues.
IMO, based on doing research.
Change oil at 4000 miles and you will never be at risk, unless you track the car, totally different.
Synthetic oil is a waste of money unless you have a turbo, heat issues.
IMO, based on doing research.
Change oil at 4000 miles and you will never be at risk, unless you track the car, totally different.
Yes
Congrats on the purchase! I used to see that Silver NSX parked at the Porsche dealership on the way home from work and then I didn't see it anymore. Now I know why! :smile:
If you are local to Houston, check out the SouthCentral section and hopefully you can join us one of these days.
Regards,
- Zishan
btw, as for oil, I stick to synthetic for peace of mind.
The only way to convince you is to do your own lab test with your own car.
I've done several lab tests with my oil, and I will tell you, even running M1 full syn, after 3,000 miles it's broken down so much that you shouldn't be using it.
By 'broken down', I mean 10W30 becomes 10W20 or 10W15.
Do you really want to redline your $30,000 engine on 10W20 oil???
Wow, Id like to see those test results...
+1...
thre have been lab tests where people run over 10K miles on mobile1 and have the oil in great shape.
thre have been lab tests where people run over 10K miles on mobile1 and have the oil in great shape.
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
Cool, another oil thread on prime. 
But I won't put my meaning here.
I just wondered why you should not go back from synthetic to regular oil? I'd say that you should not go back from regular to synthetic oil if you've used the regular oil has been used a long time. The synthetic oil will clean down all the deposits of the regular oil from the internal of the engine.
But I won't put my meaning here. I just wondered why you should not go back from synthetic to regular oil? I'd say that you should not go back from regular to synthetic oil if you've used the regular oil has been used a long time. The synthetic oil will clean down all the deposits of the regular oil from the internal of the engine.
I have a Lexus GS430 mileage queen.
It is the ONLY car I've ever had that I can tell a difference in oils on. The car idles and drives differently once the oil gets 'old'. This happens gradually, but by 3k miles on conventional oil and 4k on synthetic I can tell it wants to be changed. Yes, know it sounds crazy.
Anyways, put me in the "changes it way too often" with M1 synthetic camp. 10-30 for the NSX and 5-30 for the lexus. A jug of it is ~$21 at walmart.
I have toyed around with getting an oil pump so I don't have to change the filter every time. That is purely or the lexus tho, as you have to remove 20+ screws to get off this damn plastic cover to get to the filter.
It is the ONLY car I've ever had that I can tell a difference in oils on. The car idles and drives differently once the oil gets 'old'. This happens gradually, but by 3k miles on conventional oil and 4k on synthetic I can tell it wants to be changed. Yes, know it sounds crazy.
Anyways, put me in the "changes it way too often" with M1 synthetic camp. 10-30 for the NSX and 5-30 for the lexus. A jug of it is ~$21 at walmart.
I have toyed around with getting an oil pump so I don't have to change the filter every time. That is purely or the lexus tho, as you have to remove 20+ screws to get off this damn plastic cover to get to the filter.
Yeah my buddy has got the last gen Chevy 1500HD 6.0L truck and he goes by the oil change light. Sometimes it won't flicker on till WAY past 11,000 miles! He also runs synthetic, generally mobil 1 or lately whichever name brand synthetic is on sale.
Mobil 1 it seems is a damn good oil or the porsche motor is a damn good motor, either way, factory specs say 25k miles between oil changes. Lifetime on all other fluids or something EXTREMELY long anways.
7/25/2002
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=163845&page=17
BlackStone Lab Results:
Car: 2000 ITR 36,000 miles.
Oil: Mobil1 Tri-Synthetic 5w30. 3000 miles of hard driving(redline at least twice a day).
##The numbers on the left are mine, the numbers on the right are universal averages.
Aluminum(Pistons, bearings, cases)-- 4 (6)
chromium(Rings)-- 1 (4)
iron(Cylinders, rotating shafts, valve train)-- 7 (18)
copper(brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil collers, oil additive)-- 9 (7)
lead(bearings)-- 11 (13)
tin(bearings, piston coatings)-- 1 (1)
molybdenum(anti-wear additive, some types of rings)-- 66 (62)
nickel(element of steel)-- 0 (0)
manganese(additive in gas)-- 0 (1)
silver(trace element)-- 0 (0)
titanium(trace element)-- 0 (0)
potassium(antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oils)-- 0 (0)
boron(detergent additive)-- 107 (27)
silicon(airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets)-- 45 (15)
sodium(antifreeze, additive in some gas)-- 3 (11)
calcium(detergent additive)-- 2147 (1464)
magnesium(detergent additive)-- 66 (568)
phosphorus(anti-wear additive)-- 763 (752)
zinc(anti-wear additive)-- 924 (887)
barium(detergent)-- 1 (0)
9/3/2002
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=163845&postid=2575358#2575358
BlackStone Lab Results:
Car: 2000 ITR 39,500 miles.
Oil: Mobil1 New SuperSyn 5w30. 3000 miles of hard driving(redline at least twice a day).
##The numbers on the left are the new SuperSyn numbers, in the middle is from my previous sample with the old 5w30 tri-synthetic, and the numbers on the right are the universal averages.
Aluminum(Pistons, bearings, cases)-- 4, 4, (7)
chromium(Rings)-- 1, 1, (1)
iron(Cylinders, rotating shafts, valve train)-- 8, 7, (13)
copper(brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil collers, oil additive)-- 6, 9, (14)
lead(bearings)-- 13, 11, (3)
tin(bearings, piston coatings)-- 2, 1, (0)
molybdenum(anti-wear additive, some types of rings)-- 69, 66, (110)
nickel(element of steel)-- 0, 0, (0)
manganese(additive in gas)-- 0, 0, (1)
silver(trace element)-- 0, 0, (0)
titanium(trace element)-- 0, 0, (0)
potassium(antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oils)-- 1, 0, (0)
boron(detergent additive)-- 137, 107, (51)
silicon(airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets)-- 13, 45, (18)
sodium(antifreeze, additive in some gas)-- 8, 3, (5)
calcium(detergent additive)-- 2597, 2147, (1569)
magnesium(detergent additive)-- 21, 66, (617)
phosphorus(anti-wear additive)-- 747, 763, (780)
zinc(anti-wear additive)-- 854, 924, (904)
barium(detergent)-- 0, 1, (0)
SUS Viscosity 58.5, 55.5, (55-62)
FlashPoint 405, 420, (>365)
Fuel% <0.5, <0.5 (<2.0)
Antifreeze% 0.0, 0.0 (0)
Water% 0.0, 0.0, (<0.05)
Insolubles 0.2, 0.4, (<0.6)
I can't find my 3rd analysis...
01/16/03
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...275&Words=jond&topic=0&Search=true#Post216689
Lab: BlackStone
Car: 2000 ITR 45,900 miles.
Oil: RedLine 5w30. 3,300 miles of hard driving
##The numbers in sequence are:
##Newest Sample of RedLine 5w30
##Mobil1 SuperSyn 10w30
##Mobil1 SuperSyn 5W30
##Mobil1 TriSynthetic 5W30
##Universal Averages
Aluminum(Pistons, bearings, cases)-- 11, 4, 4, 4, (7)
chromium(Rings)-- 2, 1, 1, 1, (1)
iron(Cylinders, rotating shafts, valve train)-- 7, 7, 8, 7, (13)
copper(brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil collers, oil additive)-- 15, 5, 6, 9, (14)
lead(bearings)-- 18, 15, 13, 11, (3)
tin(bearings, piston coatings)-- 1, 1, 2, 1, (0)
molybdenum(anti-wear additive, some types of rings)-- 452, 65, 69, 66, (110)
nickel(element of steel)-- 0, 0, 0, 0, (0)
manganese(additive in gas)-- 0, 0, 0, 0, (1)
silver(trace element)-- 0, 0, 0, 0, (0)
titanium(trace element)-- 0, 0, 0, 0, (0)
potassium(antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oils)-- 2, 0, 1, 0, (0)
boron(detergent additive)-- 37, 137, 137, 107, (51)
silicon(airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets)-- 15, 10, 13, 45, (18)
sodium(antifreeze, additive in some gas)-- 12, 9, 8, 3, (5)
calcium(detergent additive)-- 3150, 2260, 2597, 2147, (1569)
magnesium(detergent additive)-- 12, 16, 21, 66, (617)
phosphorus(anti-wear additive)-- 1036, 674, 747, 763, (780)
zinc(anti-wear additive)-- 1106, 750, 854, 924, (904)
barium(detergent)-- 0, 0, 0, 1, (0)
Viscosity: 62.7
Flashpoint: 415
Fuel%: < 0.5
Antifreeze: 0
Water: 0
Insolublies%: 0.3
Seems as though the Redline isn't as good as the Mobil 1? Otherwise all samples seemed pretty close to each other.
IMHO, comparing to the "Universal" engine is an apples to oranges evolution without being provided the definition of said "Universal" engine (mileage, type, size, RPM range, HP and Torque, manufacturer etc, etc).
-Dave
'04 Rio Yellow / Black
IMHO, comparing to the "Universal" engine is an apples to oranges evolution without being provided the definition of said "Universal" engine (mileage, type, size, RPM range, HP and Torque, manufacturer etc, etc).
-Dave
'04 Rio Yellow / Black
Yeah, Redline was disappointing. There were several explanations like redline has a detergent in it that cleans out your engine that what I saw was 'cleaning'. I don't buy that though. For the price of redline, it should be NOTICEABLY better. The fact that it was almost 2x worse makes me a lifetime non-user.
One thing to pay careful note to is 'SUS Viscosity'. This tells how much the oil broke down. I don't have the formula to calculate it, maybe someone here does?
So what if I use regular oil then get a turbo, its going to be alright switching to mobil 1 fully synthetic?
And what I'm saying is that no matter how long you own your car, this won't occur.
You won't have a reason to open up your engine.
You won't open up your engine.
Any real benefit will be undetectable.
And, even if you did open up the engine, you won't be running any analysis to see if there was any difference. Plus, you'd have to have something to compare to, which you won't.
The NSX engine works just fine on regular dino oil. The only benefit you'll receive is largely of perception.
If Honda thought the NSX engine (or any other) worked better on synthetic oil, they'd specify it as the recommended product to use. They don't.
This thread goes on and on, over and over, in all car forums. Just giving you some perspetive, from my opinion, of course. Happy debating.
I've found that the biggest advantage to synthetic oils is COLD weather startup. Synthetic oils flow MUCH better in very cold temps. If you don't believe it, put a quart of syn and dino oil in the freezer overnight and see which flows better. I did that test over 25 years ago, dino oil flowed like molassis, syn flowed like water.
