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Transmission & Clutch Removal (Tips & Tricks)


Legendary Member
Patron Supporter
Tech Expert
1 August 2008
City of Angels
I've read the SM procedures about removing the trans for my 5spd. I'm considering doing this in my garage with a set of jackstands and some basic air tools. Having never done this before if anyone out there will care to chime in with some tips and tricks i'd appreciate it.

Also, on a related topic. Asides from a clutch alignment tool, are there any other special tools needed to install a clutch? I hear many accounts of premature clutch wear due to a poorly installed clutch. Though my research leads me to believe it's a MC adjustment problem not necessarily a problem of the install of the fly, disc, and pressure plate itself.
Will do! Thanks for the tip. I'll def look into it.

Also found this thread which just reinforces to me that one should read the SM first :)

I'm just wondering though if there are any other steps that may be done differently as to what the SM recommends. Sometimes the SM doesn't take into account a shortcut somewhere or someone lying on their back doing this! The 2x4 suspension removal method comes to mind.
The premature wear I believe you're talking about is from not initializing the disks since it's a dual disk setup. There is a pdf on Dali's site somewhere on the procedure and it's well written and also describes where and how to grease the input shaft. http://daliracing.com/v666-5/download/SRclutch-inst11-19-00.pdf

It's pretty similar to doing the job on FWD Hondas. The only difference is that when it comes time to raise and lower the trans, I found that you can't just go straight up and straight down like other trans installs due to the suspension components getting in the way. You end up having to snake it up by tilting it one way, going up a few inches, then tilting/turning it another. Also it's much heavier than a typical FWD Honda trans. Forget any ideas of bench pressing it up. A padded jack saddle is high recommended here if you don't have one already. I used the one from HF. It's pretty sketchy doing this alone, but possible.

I think it has also been written in many places, but don't touch the ball joints! And also if it's not going all the way in (particularly the last 2" onto the input shaft) don't force it or clamp it down with the bolts. It's due to the clutch disk being out of alignment. Turning the motor and then giving it another shove worked for me in the end.

Good luck!
Ryu, I would give LarryB a call and he can walk you through some of the tough tasks not ideally described in the SM. I love when the SM says stuff like "Step 2: remove engine." Uh huh. ;)
You can message me if you have any more questions.

Make sure that you have a fresh bottle of honda urea grease to lube the input shaft splines, the slave cylinder clutch fork joint(round knob), and the center of the pilot bearing. Make sure not to get anything on the clutch, especially the disks.

It is also a good idea to put a dab of grease on the shift cable joints where the cables meet the transmission shift arms.

DO NOT forget to install the clutch fork BEFORE you reinstall the transmission.
That sucks that your transmission gave up, I wish I can be there to assist you through the removal. Good luck with the transmission, make sure you press the fork in so it is released from the transmission before you started pulling it out. I was stuck for a while trying to figure that out.