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turning without running...

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Hi,
I just completed the rebuild of my NSX. I would like to turn the engine first without the engine firing.
What's the best way? Cut of the injectors by cutting the pre-resistance circuit? Where do I find these resistors?
thx. (probably Larry again :wink: )
 
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thx... why didn't I think of that first. Silly me, starting to look for a 8 or 12 pole connector of the injector-resistors.
My job for tomorrow: put oil in the engine, coolant, MTF, pull that fuse, and see if that already works. (oil-pressure light should go out when crancking? or isn't that enough?) I read somewhere you need 6.2 liters of oil after a full overhaul. ( I did put a new oil-pump in there)
 
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Removing the spark plugs is good as it allows the engine to turn over faster and easier, best to either unplug the coils or leave the plugs attached and grounded, so the spark has somerhere to go. But you still need to stop the fuel from entering the combustion chambers as it removes any lubrication from the cylinders walls, and if enought gets in is can "flow" past the rings into the engine oil.
 

goldNSX

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Bart Geerts said:
I DID IT !! Engine running, car driving... all ok!!
Hi Bart!

Good job! I wonder what you say about the shorties and R&P. :)

Greetings,
thomas
 
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goldNSX said:
Hi Bart!

Good job! I wonder what you say about the shorties and R&P. :)

Greetings,
thomas

I'll let you know, but sure you understand that I'm not going to be doing red-line/max torque take-offs for the first 100 km...
My car is ready for the Suisse meet, the meeting in Belgium this week-end I'll probably skip, I want to do some km here around the block before going to the ardennes :rolleyes:
 
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Great News Bart. I guess you worked out the oil pump as planned. Nice accomplishment. Now you have all those pics when you car was kit:), let's see it all together!!!!!!!!!!

Regards,
LarryB
 
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Here you go !!
 

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Larry,

thx again for all help. Yes, I did the oil-pump like you said, I had it measured and had the housing flattend. I had no probs anymore since then. 1 problem came up later that I never saw when dismantling, one of the cilinderhead allignment pins was broken off and 1 part was still sitting in the lower engine block. This probably caused the cilinderhead leak at the first place. It was a b*tch to remove. I used the 'grease in hole and tab on grease' trick to take it out, I was scared to damage the block tho since the pin was steel and the block aluminium... weakest thing breaks first no? :)


another question. with my suspension : koni+eibach, what numbers should I use for allignment? stock numbers out of the MaintManual?

thx,

Bart
 
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DutchBlackNsx said:
Hey Bart,

What was the cause off your leaky gasket?

Probably the fact that the car was 14 years old, and I wasn't the only owner. You never know that the previous owner didn't care about warming up the engine before doing max torque accellerations. And they previously installed one cilinderhead without the cilinderhead allignment pins (ik bedoel de paspennen in het nederlands)
 
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Bart Geerts said:
Probably the fact that the car was 14 years old, and I wasn't the only owner. You never know that the previous owner didn't care about warming up the engine before doing max torque accellerations. And they previously installed one cilinderhead without the cilinderhead allignment pins (ik bedoel de paspennen in het nederlands)

Wow.... what a shame that there are people putting a nsx engine back like that.

Just a thought, you still have the old coolant tank?
 

goldNSX

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Bart Geerts said:
another question. with my suspension : koni+eibach, what numbers should I use for allignment? stock numbers out of the MaintManual?
Hi Bart!

I had my car aligned recently by a NSX specialist. I have the Eibachs too. Front total toe -1 mm, Rear + 6 mm, camber rear the least possible was -2 degrees, front I don't know. Rear toe is still aggressive enough. :) (I had 12 mm before! :()

Congrats to the bodywork! I didn't recognize it! :) I'm very looking forward to meet you, your wife and NSX again. :)

Greetings,
Thomas
 
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