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Today, I was having a problem starting my car. More specifically, I was having a problem keeping it running. It would crank just fine, and the rpms would rise to 2000 or so, like normal, but it would immediately stall within 1 second. If I gave it some throttle, I could keep the engine running...

Or if they total it, you can have another project car... It was a grand cherokee. It was a glancing blow. I was going about 5mph, it was going about 30mph. Her driver door/fender joint right into the middle of the bumper. I will definitely keep that offer in mind.

The thin top part in bent but I can't see any damage down low right now. - - - Updated - - - The one picture I got of under the hood. The hood actually still latches (kinda) right, so that's a decent sign.

I was in an accident in Atlanta, GA about an hour ago. Nobody is hurt, except the nsx. Front end damage. Doesn't appear to have any structural damage. Just hood bumper fenders lights, radiator support. The accident was not my fault and the other woman has insurance. I need to know a good place...

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137075

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showpost.php?p=309684&postcount=23 The part numbers may be outdated, but you can find all the capacitors with those specifications at Digikey.

Remove the right-rear wheel if you need a little bit more room to work.

I have the comptech fore/aft and side/side short shift pieces and the short stalk with a heavy type-r knockoff style knob. It's pretty short, maybe too short for some people, but it feels great to me. Getting into reverse felt a little bit stiff at first but it's not that bad now.

Try spraying some penetrant on the stuck part. Something like PB Blaster might help. If not, maybe heat would do it.

From what I understand, the GTLW only drones with stock exhaust manifolds or catalytic converters. Mine is with Taitec test pipes and Cantrell headers and there is no drone. Someone has also claimed that removing the engine cover silences the droning. Not sure about the engine cover but the...

I believe the parts were about $150 total from Delray Acura. The pulley is $70!

Check your a/c idle pulley. Mine was squealing like this about a year ago. I tightened the belt a little bit and that helped for a few days, until the pulley seized up and ripped itself off the car!:eek::mad: The pulley broke off a couple of fasteners and the a/c belt got caught in the...

This looks really neat. I considered trying this a while back but wasn't really sure how to make it work. If this turns out well, I may give it a try. I built a new glovebox that is a good bit bigger than stock but I can never have too much storage space in this car.

After a year of gtlw with headers and test pipes, my perspective of what "loud" means has changed a bit. :biggrin:

Hit a tire (I think) on the interstate last night and lost my tow hook cover and the passenger's side blinker/running light assembly got cracked. I have paint so the color of the tow hook cover does not matter.

I replaced my fuel pump four weeks ago. Actually removing and replacing the pump took maybe 10-15 minutes but removing the tank is quite a task. It is necessary to remove the tank to get to the pump. I had less than a gallon of gas in the tank so it was pretty light, but having a full tank would...

I have the ddm 35w on my low beams and the 55w on the high beams, all installed on the factory wiring. I am considering installing a relay for the 55w lights. When I turn on the brights from a cold start, the left light cuts on for a fraction of a second but then dies. The right light works...

Rough idle and stalling could mean that your throttle body needs to be cleaned. It can get gummed up over time. try this: http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139132

As far as "ram air" goes, there is no significant difference in pressure unless you are going something like 300mph. "Cold air" on the other hand, is very meaningful. The stock intake draws cold air from outside the engine bay. Most aftermarket intakes for the NSX are designed with the filter...

I drove without them for one day when I had them off for repair and dirt got all in the door sill part. Probably best to leave them on.

headers + test pipes + GTLW = very loud If you want more volume, test pipes are the way to go.

If you use a good penetrant (I recommend PB Blaster) and a breaker bar, it should not be too hard. The cat on the passenger side is a bit tricky though. I would recommend removing the wheel to get better access to the bolts.

When I get home in a few days, I will put up some sound clips of my current setup. Currently, I have Cantrell headers and Taitec test pipes going into the GTLW. If you want me to, it would be no problem to reinstall my stock cats for comparison. I can also do a comparison inside with and without...

I would recommend test pipes. I have test pipes with my GTLW and I really like the sound. Test pipes should cost less than $200 and are very easy to install.

It sounds like some freak short circuit. I was actually looking at the wiring diagrams for this exact thing about a week ago and I noticed that even if the ccu somehow grounds the fan, it shouldn't still run with the car off because there is a relay on the hot side of the fan also. Does this...