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a few pics of john@microsoft's nsx

I saw John leaving campus a few weeks ago. Hi John! Man, all i have to say is pictures do not do that car justice. I was behind him and next to him on 520, it simpley looks amazing. Its like seeing a race car on the street.

John whats ur alias? I'll like you up, maybe we can grab lunch.

~Vu
 
vtp said:
I saw John leaving campus a few weeks ago. Hi John! Man, all i have to say is pictures do not do that car justice. I was behind him and next to him on 520, it simpley looks amazing. Its like seeing a race car on the street.

John whats ur alias? I'll like you up, maybe we can grab lunch.

~Vu

That would be awesome. Ever since Wann left MSNBC I don't have any fellow NSXers on main to eat with anymore. I've PM'd you my look-up info. :)
 
WOW! That car looks great! I have a couple of questions:

1. Is that bodykit actually aerodynamically functional? or is it primarily for looks? In other words, is it an actual bodykit designed and produced for racing purposes? There is a Flossman widebody kit for the M3 and it is designed primarily for racing. But there are kits that are made just to look cool.

2. What material is it made of? And what materials is it available in?

3. How much does it cost?
 
E46M3GTR said:
WOW! That car looks great! I have a couple of questions:

1. Is that bodykit actually aerodynamically functional? or is it primarily for looks? In other words, is it an actual bodykit designed and produced for racing purposes? There is a Flossman widebody kit for the M3 and it is designed primarily for racing. But there are kits that are made just to look cool.

It's functional if installed properly with purpose. Functional brake ducting inlets, larger radiator inlet, lower side skirts, lower front end, canards, lots of fender clearance for lower offset wheels and wider rubber, effective diffuser and wing, etc...

I as running today at BMWACA Portland in the hot dry August weather, and the rear end felt so stable from the cumulative effect of the aero, wider track on the suspension, etc... that I could pretty much just point the nose and have the confidence in my rear end staying put even as the track temps and tire pressures edged up under the hot summer sun and my rubber got really greasy on hot laps. When your drowning in sweat from the heat it can be hard to maintain 100% all the time, and downforce definitely has kept me out of trouble more than once.

Last session of the day, I hopped back into the S2K with no down force and knew what needed to be done (wave my wand and have it magically turn into an Exige.. heh.. j/k).

Personally, I am more than sold on the confidence and feel usable downforce affords drivers whom regularly track their vehicles.


E46M3GTR said:
2. What material is it made of? And what materials is it available in?

Like most body kits, Fiberglass or CFRP. Lightweight, sufficiently rigid for the application, and best of all very easy to repair track damage unlike some of the other composites. My exhaust burnt up a small part of my diffuser today so I just may appreciate that this week as I do some John repairs.


E46M3GTR said:
3. How much does it cost?

It depends on several factors including specific parts, options, shipping, fabrication, etc... but for a complete installation including prep and paint expect in the range of about 12-24 grand.

I've gotten a lot of interest over the past year, so look for a full review in the next issue of NSX Driver.
 
E46M3GTR said:
Did you get wider wheels or actually move the suspension further out?

It is closer to a mildly modified spec application.

The suspension was pulled and re-built. Spherical bushings / heim joints were installed at each motion point in place of the OEM rubber bushings. The stock hub was retained with the only modification being the installation of higher strength wheel studs and new wheel bearings. The wheels are the lowest offset/widest single piece TE37's Volk offers- 8.5J front ET+22 and 10.5J ET+12 rear



E46M3GTR said:
Have you done anything to the engine?

The engine is a very healthy spec Honda C32B with I/H/E, a Toda racing timing belt, a few minor top end tweeks, ducting/cooling, some minor emissions de-tuning, track prep, good fittings, redline fluids, excellent maintenance, etc... it feels strong and I got a comment yesterday from a passenger that it seems to still pull amazingly strong down the straights despite the added drag.

Still, if credit is due anywhere it is to Honda. I've driven or gotten rides in all sorts of things over the years, and dollar for dollar IMO Honda just builds damn good engines. If they moved over to dry sump, offered more factory race support for the ECU I would be gold. If their is anything else you'd like to know I'd be happy to answer any question you might have.

Best Regards,

John
 
I just sent you a PM. I finally got a hold of my contact at IT. They want to shoot John's NSX.

Shoot me a PM in response to what they said. Sounds good to me.:smile: I also sent John a PM with more info.

dcho said:
hey john, im not awesome :redface: your car is. well i hope you like the pics. ill send you hi-res ones some time. hey endless, do you mind helping me (and john) out with some contact #'s or email's for the editors or whomever you spoke to for those mags? a PM would be great :biggrin: it'll speed things up alot

its no doubt that the "smaller" publications will take interest in this car i believe, but its the big dogs that i'm shooting for!
 
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John@Microsoft said:
It is closer to a mildly modified spec application.

The suspension was pulled and re-built. Spherical bushings / heim joints were installed at each motion point in place of the OEM rubber bushings. The stock hub was retained with the only modification being the installation of higher strength wheel studs and new wheel bearings. The wheels are the lowest offset/widest single piece TE37's Volk offers- 8.5J front ET+22 and 10.5J ET+12 rear

Interesting, so the wider wheels and offsets filled the gap created by the wide body kit? How much wider is the body over stock? BTW, I have Volk TE37 for my M3. They are limited edition speced out by Dixis race team.

Front: 18" 9.5 ET +22
Rear: 18" 10.5 ET +35

As for tires, I have 265/35 R18 up front and 275/35 R18 in the rear. I run a square set up to get rid of understeer. Do you run a relatively square set up with your tires? Are your wheels 18"?

John@Microsoft said:
The engine is a very healthy spec Honda C32B with I/H/E, a Toda racing timing belt, a few minor top end tweeks, ducting/cooling, some minor emissions de-tuning, track prep, good fittings, redline fluids, excellent maintenance, etc... it feels strong and I got a comment yesterday from a passenger that it seems to still pull amazingly strong down the straights despite the added drag.

Still, if credit is due anywhere it is to Honda. I've driven or gotten rides in all sorts of things over the years, and dollar for dollar IMO Honda just builds damn good engines. If they moved over to dry sump, offered more factory race support for the ECU I would be gold. If their is anything else you'd like to know I'd be happy to answer any question you might have.

Best Regards,

John

Where can one obtain a fresh C32B motor? And how much is it?
 
E46M3GTR said:
Interesting, so the wider wheels and offsets filled the gap created by the wide body kit? How much wider is the body over stock? BTW, I have Volk TE37 for my M3. They are limited edition speced out by Dixis race team.

Front: 18" 9.5 ET +22
Rear: 18" 10.5 ET +35

Nice sizes! BTW the M3 GTR is one of my all time favorite race cars ever since I saw that video at the ring! Isn't it amazing what 30 million dollars in go fast parts can do! Even 1st time HPDE novices need one of those! Passing Audi station wagons at the 200 foot braking zone into the chicane would ramp up the driving excitement around here!! :biggrin:

Anyways, as far as the width, I don't recall the exact spec but according to Eddie's employee Brian- per his rear view mirror, the body is apparently wider by a good bit. Practically it's more than adequate- 3-4 inches likely 6 at the widest point. :)

On the street I can just about fit in an extra 15mm spacer, but for the track I've taken it out due to rubbing and performance issues. Visually, the widest section of the fenders come clear straight out to the edges of the stock mirrors in the front and the wider rear bumper extends all the way out flush to the edge of the 6.3 foot rear wing. Versus the convervative stock styling that tapers off right after the edge of the frame rail, it looks pretty aggressive. Even the side skirts extend 4" inches clear out from the door.

As far as wheel position the stock late model offset is 55 mm front, 56 mm rear so with the Volks I have now that positions the rear wheel further out at 44mm per side, and the front further out by 33mm per side, without the spacer. Ideally you want to position the wheels towards the extreme ends of the vehicle, but the stock suspension geometry is designed with the wheel to be in a certain position, so their is some latitude for adjustment but you likely don't want to go too far or you can interfere with some of its other handling characteristics.



E46M3GTR said:
As for tires, I have 265/35 R18 up front and 275/35 R18 in the rear. I run a square set up to get rid of understeer. Do you run a relatively square set up with your tires? Are your wheels 18"?

Alot of tuning is just experientation, so I've tried things several different ways and if it felt better/faster than I went with it. My fronts are tucked in slightly more than the rears, which I've put some thought into. My conclusion is that it likely doesn't hurt due to weight distribution.. once you take the weight off a mid engine application like the NSX from what I see on the scales, IMO the rear likely benefits from the wider track more than the front, particularly with the engine in the stock position, if that makes any sense- simply because their is more load weight to laterally shift towards the rear of the vehicle.

For tires, I'm currently running a 255 in the front and a 305 in the rear for a street/track application. For a street tire- RE050A's seem to hold up extremely well for a combination of street/track use. I see now why they put these on the Enzo as OE. Bridgestone's engineers just rock.

Due to cost, I've never run full slicks (Michellin, Yokohama, etc... ) before, but I'm edging towards the purchase of a set of magnesium wheels with Hoosiers, or perhaps a more aggressive R Compound like the Pilot Sport Cups shortly. I'd like to run a set on the stock wheels on the S2000 and see what I like first and make my driving mistakes there. I have been told full slicks take some time to become acclimated to.



E46M3GTR said:
Where can one obtain a fresh C32B motor? And how much is it?

Unfortunately somewhat expensive and hard to come by a good one I must say. While all NSX engines as a general rule are far harder to come by than F20C's or B18C5's, etc.. the later model vehicles number far fewer in production. Not much more to say, I guess hopefully more will become available with more incidents. :biggrin:

The C32B is the 290hp 3.2 liter revision stock in the 97+ NSX. Entirely cost prohibitive new, they do come up here and there, sometimes here on prime, usually you can find a later model C32B 3.2L out of a totalled NSX in the $8500 range not including shipping, prep, or install. While it is only a 20HP difference or so on paper, even a bone stock C32B feels a lot more responsive on the race track, putting down more torque, and feeling a lot less sluggish than it's predesessor particularly coupled with the newer 6 speed. The TypeR motors are further B&B'd and most BMI drivers claim that they feel a lot stronger than spec, but a used JDM one with even moderate mileage would likely negate much of that benefit.
 
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Swap an S54 engine in there! :smile: :eek: :biggrin: Then you'll have atleast 333+hp. I think you can buy one for about $7-$10.
 
I nominate this as one of NSX Prime hottest NSX's. Great work John:wink:
 
John, I love your car!!!

Off topic question.

Is that a Taitec JGTC500 wing? And if yes, how does it attach to the trunk lid with the wicket spoiler?

I ask because Ive recently purchased (from a PRIME member) a TAITEC500 wing with a wicket spoiler and Ive found that I seem to be missing some parts! I have the wing and the end plates, thats all! The end plates do not have the studs in them to attach to the decklid (I sourced some bolts that should work fine).

I do not have either the two fiberglass pieces or the two aluminum plates that mount horizontally.

I am assuming that is because they wont fit with the wicket spoiler, but Im trying to get the info from the seller before I:

1) source the missing parts from Japan for at least a few hundred bucks :(
2) assume that what I have will work and pay a few hundred bucks to get the wicket spoiler painted and then have to source the missing parts ALSO :( :(

How does your wing connect to the trunk lid?
 
BioBanker said:
John, I love your car!!!

Off topic question.

Is that a Taitec JGTC500 wing? And if yes, how does it attach to the trunk lid with the wicket spoiler?

It is not. The wing is a really expensive one-off from Kawagen made to order.



BioBanker said:
I ask because Ive recently purchased (from a PRIME member) a TAITEC500 wing with a wicket spoiler and Ive found that I seem to be missing some parts! I have the wing and the end plates, thats all! The end plates do not have the studs in them to attach to the decklid (I sourced some bolts that should work fine).


I've had a Taitec GT500 before so I can assist with that. The GT500 wing comes with the two CNC cut countoured reinforcing plates that sit on the decklid, and the horizontal mounts your missing have the threaded bolts which poke through both the deck plates and the trunk lid, requiring nothing more than a nut on the other side. On the top side, they then attach to the permanently affixed mounts riveted to the wing.

If aestetics is an issue, and you do not have those two mounts, I would say it's likely worth getting a set from Taitec. If you had to swing by a machine shop and have them machine a nice set of mounts yourself it would get just as pricey if not more anyway.



BioBanker said:
I do not have either the two fiberglass pieces or the two aluminum plates that mount horizontally.

I think you may be confusing the GT500 wing mounts with the S-Tai. The GT500 wing simply has the two upright aluminum mounts, whereas the S-Tai has a different aluminum mount along with two pieces of CFRP per side that sandwich / cover each exposed side of the upright mount for bling. I can attach pictures of all of this if needed.



BioBanker said:
I am assuming that is because they wont fit with the wicket spoiler, but Im trying to get the info from the seller before I:

By Wicket spoiler do you mean a trunk lid spoiler? The GT500's side mounts are designed to be used stand-alone, without the I's Impact decklid spoiler. Deck lid spoilers typically attach before the assembly is installed, by using the wings upright side mounts along with an inner pre-tapped aluminum plate to secure it in place. If your trying to use your GT500 along with a decklid spoiler, you'll have to do a little bit of modification/fab.



BioBanker said:
1) source the missing parts from Japan for at least a few hundred bucks :(
2) assume that what I have will work and pay a few hundred bucks to get the wicket spoiler painted and then have to source the missing parts ALSO :( :(

Again, I'd say if your missing the uprights to just pay the money and get them. They are small and after coordination and a wire can be shipped via overnight DHL if needed so long as Taitec has a set there in stock.
 

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That is very helpful John, thank you.

From that pic, my vertical end plate is missing the horizontal piece that sits on the black CFRP piece. If that and the vertical part are one piece, mine has been cut and tapped such that bolts can be inserted from the underside of the trunk lid up into the end plate.

Here is a pic:
http://s2ki.iroque.com/BioBanker/IMG_4934.jpg

I suspect that was done to allow the use of the deck lid spoiler because there is no room for those pieces with it in place.

My set up came from this car:

nsxside%5b1%5d.jpg


So it appears that what I have has already been fabricated; wish I was told that before!
 
It was awhile back, but now that I think about it I believe when I received mine that the bolts were simply reversed in direction, studs were in place for some reason, or perhaps it had a bullet head on it. I honestly just don't remember the exact hardware configuration. I had received mine second hand, which complicated things for me as well I don't recall how they arrive from Taitec out of box versus what I had. I've been digging for some pictures, but I can't find any good up close ones yet... I'll keep looking here...

Well, from that pic you just posted it appears the upright mount is already pre-threaded to accept a bolt coming up from the bottom of the trunk lid, through the mounting plate and into the vertical upright mount as you eluded to above.

IMO, that is the most typical way to affix a wing on the NSX using the stock side mount configuration, so that the underside of the trunk lid doesn't have an exposed nut so when shutting it their is no possibility of clearance issues, and for security reasons so there is no exposed head to tamper with.

Quite likely, it can be assembled in numerous ways and I've seen several people do things slightly differently.

Either way, no matter how you choose to install the hardware- I think your going to need to snag a set of those uprights unless you want to DIY.
 
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Thanks so much John.

Guess the only thing that I can do is give it a go. Unless Im being outright lied to, which I hope is not the case, this set up was indeed on a car (the silver car), so it should fit, somehow.

Ill give it a go and have to pull it all apart again for painting, if it indeed does work. I hope I dont bust the 02 deck lip during the process!
 
Those bolts that go through the deck lid, do they travel up into the vertical part of the end plate or do they sit outward of the vertical part?

If they sit outward, Im wondering if my distances between the end plates as they relate to the wing itself, will be correct.
 
BioBanker said:
Those bolts that go through the deck lid, do they travel up into the vertical part of the end plate or do they sit outward of the vertical part?

If they sit outward, Im wondering if my distances between the end plates as they relate to the wing itself, will be correct.

Whew, this was a while ago... but from all of the pictures I see, they travel up into the vertical up-right mount, so anotherwards the up-rights are pre-threaded from Taitec. Mine probably just had studs I would speculate, perhaps to make one person mounting easier. Pic attached. I'm sure any of the guys on here with GT500 wings (their are numerous) could say for certain.
 

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Awesome. Thx again.

Ill try to put it together tonight and Ill report.

Please return to your regularily scheduled programming: John's awesome NSX!
 
John's NSX is a beast!! i love the way it sounds and looks.. freakin lemans car.. haha :biggrin: i cant wait to see it in person again!
 
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