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Anyone else tired of slow windows?

Joined
11 November 2006
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Location
vancouver
Has anyone ever tried to find a solution to the slow windows ?
I am considering the options here , rewinding the motors, rewiring (heavier gauge wire), adding a circuit to increase voltage( ie. kenne bell "boost-a-pump!)

I'm sick of it and I'm not gonna take it anymore!!!
 
power is over-rated...

If you come up w/ some solution/modification that hastens the window-speed, please be sure to document it in a D.I.Y. tutorial via video or images!

Also, while you're at it... if you can come up w/ a hand-rolling mechanism of the windows (retro-fit bits from a base-model Honda or even HomeDepot/Lowes), I'd be 100% game to acquiring such a conversion-kit! :biggrin:
 
Are the windows driven through a relay or directly from the switch? I know in Miatas, the electric windows were driven right from the switch which was hard on the contacts and they were never fast. Adding relays to the system helped a lot, wondering if it's the same situation on the NSX.
 
Funny, I was thinking the same thing....tired of slow windows. Was going to have my audio guy try to lube everything up and make adjustments. There has to be a better fix!

Jeff
 
same here. let me know if u figure any thing out and may be offer a DIY write up.
 
What do you call slow ? mine are about 5 seconds up or down.
I installed the Window "thingys" immediately after buying the car last Oct and while I was in there, I lubed the window tracks with an all- temp synthetic grease. (You don't want a grease that gets stiff in cold weather)
I just used mine today, there are both fine.
 
Anyone know how fast they're supposed to be when new? I lubed my driver's one last weekend which improved things a lot but it's still clunky. Seemed to me the front and rear guide tracks had an awful lot of play compared to other windows I've messed with. Not sure if that contributes to the various problems.

I just checked the wiring diagram, and the motors are run directly through the switches (the relay in the circuit is for the time delay). If connecting the motors directly to a 12v battery makes em go faster, then there may be merit to relays/rewiring; if not, something more involved would be likely.
 
Anyone know how fast they're supposed to be when new? I lubed my driver's one last weekend which improved things a lot but it's still clunky. Seemed to me the front and rear guide tracks had an awful lot of play compared to other windows I've messed with. Not sure if that contributes to the various problems.

I just checked the wiring diagram, and the motors are run directly through the switches (the relay in the circuit is for the time delay). If connecting the motors directly to a 12v battery makes em go faster, then there may be merit to relays/rewiring; if not, something more involved would be likely.

I suspect that a relay would help because you would use heavier wiring to eliminate voltage drop and take a run directly off the battery. I don't know what gauge wiring runs to the switch but it would be interesting to take some readings for amperage draw and voltage drop at the switch and motor.

Has anyone tried cleaning the contacts in the switch while lubing the window tracks? Cleaning the switch contacts would allow some of us old farts to dig out our old points file and make use of it once again :D

Here's the relay diagram that the Miata community uses to fix the slow window problem:
 

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What do you call slow ? mine are about 5 seconds up or down.
I installed the Window "thingys" immediately after buying the car last Oct and while I was in there, I lubed the window tracks with an all- temp synthetic grease. (You don't want a grease that gets stiff in cold weather)
I just used mine today, there are both fine.
+1, it helped mine significantly.
 
What do you call slow ? mine are about 5 seconds up or down.
I installed the Window "thingys" immediately after buying the car last Oct and while I was in there, I lubed the window tracks with an all- temp synthetic grease. (You don't want a grease that gets stiff in cold weather)
I just used mine today, there are both fine.

Yours are almost fast!
 
The issue is one of maintenance. The grease in the tracks will get caked and bind the "pads" on the windows. I remove the windows, remove the tracks, clean everything carefully, regrease with Honda grease, and all is well for another 8+ years:).

This is not a fast fix, but it does work well. You really need to read the service manual and follow the removal instructions carefully paying attention to the window track alignment. If you just unscrew everything you will have a looooong process to get them correct again. I have had folks think the regreasing was useless, only to find the window is completely out of adjustment, after they were disassembled/reassembled.

Some times you must RTM:D

Regards,
LarryB
 
The issue is one of maintenance. The grease in the tracks will get caked and bind the "pads" on the windows. I remove the windows, remove the tracks, clean everything carefully, regrease with Honda grease, and all is well for another 8+ years:).

I haven't had this done to my NSX yet, but with my old Integra Type-R, I had Acura lube the windows 2-3 times in my 6 years of ownership. It always made a nice improvment, and they always did it for free.
 
I haven't had this done to my NSX yet, but with my old Integra Type-R, I had Acura lube the windows 2-3 times in my 6 years of ownership. It always made a nice improvment, and they always did it for free.

I suspect that Acura used a light lube like WD40 for this "fix", and did it quick and free:D. I have seen this done and it works great, but not for that long. Since the light lube ends up at the bottom of the door eventually, this needs repeating more often:).

JMO,
LarryB
 
There appear to be three issues that cause the slow window. First is the old grease which like mentioned earlier gets thick and/or brittle. Second is the alignment of the tracks. I don't know how many people close my door like it's a '79 Buick. The door weighs like 8 pounds :rolleyes:. When the window is not all the way up or down it's weight is not supported well on the tracks. This can cause the track to flex or even move and lead to the third issue. The UHMW (white plastic sliders) become worn from poor lubrication and repetitive movement. I was planing on stripping mine down this fall the rebuilding the mechanism. Maybe even redesign the UHMW sliders to support the window better. Mine are not terribly slow but do need attention. Personally, I do not think voltage/amperage to the motor is a viable fix. May speed up the window but may also cause the window to fail/burn up.
 
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Has anyone tried replacing the plastic guide blocks that travel inside the aluminum guides? Mine did seem "too small" when I messed with it a few years ago. I wonder if they are just extremely worn. They are listed in the parts list at about $28 x 8 (!). I may try this if I ever have some extra time and money.
 
There appear to be three issues that cause the slow window. First is the old grease which like mentioned earlier gets thick and/or brittle. Second is the alignment of the tracks. I don't know how many people close my door like it's a '79 Buick. The door weighs like 8 pounds :rolleyes:. When the window is not all the way up or down it's weight is not supported well on the tracks. This can cause the track to flex or even move and lead to the third issue. The UHMW (white plastic sliders) become worn from poor lubrication and repetitive movement. I was planing on stripping mine down this fall the rebuilding the mechanism. Maybe even redesign the UHMW sliders to support the window better. Mine are not terribly slow but do need attention. Personally, I do not think voltage/amperage to the motor is a viable fix. May speed up the window but may also cause the window to fail/burn up.

I have personally disassembled many NSX windows/doors. If you get a rail out and look at it, there is no way it is flexing due to window movement. It is a boxed extrusion, strong and lite. The window will break before the rail flexes.

I have never had a worn set of pads either, they are caked with grease that looks like cement, but once you clean them off they look like new.

If the window tracks are out of alignment, someone made them that way, mainly by not following the procedure when removing them. The other possibility is that someone removed the pads and lost or misplaced the alignment shims for each pad from the factory, although I have been able to get every one to align, by adjusting the rails.

My $.02 based on doing it many times;).

Regards,
LarryB
 
Larry,
I assume the plastic spring blocks should fit snuggly in the track without rattling around, correct? (I've only seen my '91 :smile:)
 
Larry,
I assume the plastic spring blocks should fit snuggly in the track without rattling around, correct? (I've only seen my '91 :smile:)

Inerestingly enough the spring blocks are a little misleading in my experience. You would intuitively think that the spring loading would be horizontial to eliminate all of the movement. But this is not really the case. The fact is, if you install them and have the block spring into the sides of the window rails, they will not go up properly, if at all. The bind almost immediately.

I spent many hours on my first window repair, insisting to myself, that the orientation of the spring blocks were horizontial. I did not pay attention to how there were oriented when I disassembled them. When I could not get the window to go up, regardless of adjustment, I rotated them, and all was fine.

The next car I did, I noticed that they do not spring load horizontially from the factory. If you look at the service manual pictures carefully you can see how they are positioned, spring loaded side going up and down.

I have to say I still scratch my head about this:).
I really expected them to be spring loaded sideways.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Hi the friends :smile:, I also have a problem with the 2 windows, the left window (pilot) goes up completely through and I must guide it with the hand to be able to close the door :confused:
windows passenger does not go up more, I can reduce it but it does not go up, I think that for this window, it is an electric problem, but for that of the pilot, it is more serious, that is necessary it to buy like parts to make repair? thank you!:smile:
 
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