+1 :wink:
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Anyone know where i can convert to targa top?
- Thread starter banditt
- Start date
+1 :wink:
+1 :wink:
- Joined
- 10 February 2011
- Messages
- 48
I will try and get more pics up soon. I purchased the car with the subwoofer installed but the box feels like it is made of wood but its covered in matching black leather. It fits well with the car and they did a good job makeing the box fit flush... the only issue is that the seats cant go back all the way, but Im only 5'6" so I fit just fine. This is the only other pic I have right now.
+2 ........ there a lot of folks on this forum who would rather own a coupe. Do not destroy it. Maybe some targa guy would trade with you?
Let's try to keep this beautiful car as close to the way it was built with reversible mods only. That also should mean ..... any of you other guys out there that may be considering "parting out" a car, please try saving it or selling it. :frown:
YUP
Here's the math:
Assuming you own your car outright with a clean and clear title,
you can sell/dump your NSX for $20,000 cash on the market to nearly anyone
Add a $15,000 note from penfed for 60 months @ $269.46/month
Go buy yourself a fine condition 1995 or 1996 for around $35,000 AND
there are several available right now ready for you to drive into the sunset
Done... and no NSX is chopped, hacked, and put on the worthless list
I had 2 targa and 1 coupe, I like the coupe better.
sell or trade for a "T" car.
Thanks everyone for the morning laughs here at work!
Thanks everyone for the morning laughs here at work!
YUP
Here's the math:
Assuming you own your car outright with a clean and clear title,
you can sell/dump your NSX for $20,000 cash on the market to nearly anyone
Add a $15,000 note from penfed for 60 months @ $269.46/month
Go buy yourself a fine condition 1995 or 1996 for around $35,000 AND
there are several available right now ready for you to drive into the sunset
Done... and no NSX is chopped, hacked, and put on the worthless list
Now this is great logic - I don't know what the OP is thinking but this makes perfect sense.
I hate to say it and I don't mean any disrespect to the individual that came up with this idea but there is no way anyone here would recommend this idea and the guhy that had this done was a nut. That idea will come back to haunt the current owner and that kind of alteration is just ruining the value of a good car.
Now there is a guy on Prime that took his GPW targa and welded in a top and suceeded in making a beautiful clone of the R. I don't know what kind of value the car has now since it isn't stock but it was a masterful job and impeccably performed. It cost a huge sum to do what he did but it is done right - unlike the coupe turned targa. That was not done right and it has ruined the value and as said the coupes are the lightest and best track models and best ones to mod for serious duty. Why mess one up for the wrong thing.
You know one thing I believe - we are stewards and our ownership is but a temporary position of a care taker. We need to preserve these cars as they are and do things that can be undone. That's my two cents.
- Joined
- 1 December 2009
- Messages
- 622
I saw one of these converted cars at SOS.
It had a HUGE x brace on the bottom to counter the massive twist that was occurring over time due to it being a HORRIBLE idea to convert these cars.
Please just go buy what you want instead of destroying another NSX
It had a HUGE x brace on the bottom to counter the massive twist that was occurring over time due to it being a HORRIBLE idea to convert these cars.
Please just go buy what you want instead of destroying another NSX
- Joined
- 10 February 2011
- Messages
- 48
the top just barely fits in the trunk!! I have only put it in there once...
- Joined
- 25 April 2010
- Messages
- 159
A wise decision. Both you and the NSX will be happier. Even though some people on the forum appear rude, they generally have experience and expertise to give worthy advice, which is why people ask these kinds of questions here in the first place.
Please note your quote above.
I have reproduced it with one part in bold type.
To that I have a couple of questions.
1) Could you please explain exactly what you are referring to as the "frame".
Is it one part as in "door frame" or the overall chassis to which you refer?
2) Could you please explain the basis of your declaration about "thinner metal"? This is a subject of interest to me and I have seen others declare this but have not been able to find any documentation to support the notion. I am very curious how you came to know this.
I am not aware of a change in the gauge or grade of the original structure metal. This is of extreme interest to me.
As to the subject of the thread, structural considerations aside, I am surprised it would be cost effective to make such as conversion. I see no advantage or reason to do it since you can buy one already made.
This is from the WiKI
Changes for 1995
Added targa top version: the NSX-T
Only -Ts were avilable in 1995 in the US; coupes were unavailable.
Roofs now all body colored
Bumper reinforcements were changed to extruded aluminum instead of the stamped steel
Approx. 100 lbs heaver than 1991/1992 models due to reinforcements for targa top, including: The base of the B pillar where it joins the rocker panel, larger rear bulkhead crossbar, thicker trunk leading edge panel, a redesigned and thicker-walled rear roof section, a redesigned front roof rail section, additional rib in the center rear bulkhead section, a completely redesigned and thicker upper A-pillar. There's also a redesigned and thicker upper dashboard cross member and a redesigned front lower floor section. The extruded aluminum side sills were extensively reinforced - wall thickness of the vertical center web of the 5-sided extrusion went from 2mm to 6mm.
Dave
Changes for 1995
Added targa top version: the NSX-T
Only -Ts were avilable in 1995 in the US; coupes were unavailable.
Roofs now all body colored
Bumper reinforcements were changed to extruded aluminum instead of the stamped steel
Approx. 100 lbs heaver than 1991/1992 models due to reinforcements for targa top, including: The base of the B pillar where it joins the rocker panel, larger rear bulkhead crossbar, thicker trunk leading edge panel, a redesigned and thicker-walled rear roof section, a redesigned front roof rail section, additional rib in the center rear bulkhead section, a completely redesigned and thicker upper A-pillar. There's also a redesigned and thicker upper dashboard cross member and a redesigned front lower floor section. The extruded aluminum side sills were extensively reinforced - wall thickness of the vertical center web of the 5-sided extrusion went from 2mm to 6mm.
Dave
listen to the guy that has one already, all these other fools are just talking from reading numbers and specs. The key factor is will you be racing this NSX or mostly driving it aggressively? If not then, do it. I own a body shop and if it's done correctly you will be happy with it.
From having owned a convertible NSX, I can tell you with 100% certainty that, even if they cross braced the bottom of your car for strength, they most certainly did not properly bolster the A pillar. Regardless of how I tried, I could never figure out how to give the A pillar strength without a roll cage. You are at serious risk from both front impacts and roll overs. A roll over is very unlikely, but we don't always control our fates. But what will support your A pillar in a front end collision?
I'm not bagging on you. Remember, I owned a custom convertible NSX for many years! I never had an issue and I really loved the top down motoring, but the risk was real. Furthermore, a custom job will almost never be as well performed as OEM. It is nearly impossible as the engineering effort just isn't there. You will devalue the car to anyone who has enough sense to recognize what you have done to it. Walk away dude, walk away...
I'm not bagging on you. Remember, I owned a custom convertible NSX for many years! I never had an issue and I really loved the top down motoring, but the risk was real. Furthermore, a custom job will almost never be as well performed as OEM. It is nearly impossible as the engineering effort just isn't there. You will devalue the car to anyone who has enough sense to recognize what you have done to it. Walk away dude, walk away...
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Listen to the guy that had one already. :biggrin:
shawn110975
Suspended
DDozier thanks I was gonna paste that too for PBassjo
This is from the WiKI
Changes for 1995
Added targa top version: the NSX-T
Only -Ts were avilable in 1995 in the US; coupes were unavailable.
Roofs now all body colored
Bumper reinforcements were changed to extruded aluminum instead of the stamped steel
Approx. 100 lbs heaver than 1991/1992 models due to reinforcements for targa top, including: The base of the B pillar where it joins the rocker panel, larger rear bulkhead crossbar, thicker trunk leading edge panel, a redesigned and thicker-walled rear roof section, a redesigned front roof rail section, additional rib in the center rear bulkhead section, a completely redesigned and thicker upper A-pillar. There's also a redesigned and thicker upper dashboard cross member and a redesigned front lower floor section. The extruded aluminum side sills were extensively reinforced - wall thickness of the vertical center web of the 5-sided extrusion went from 2mm to 6mm.
I just picked up an 02 from Jason and while driving the car I had my arm out the window with my finger on the rubber where the cars front window frame meets the targa top. and with every bump in the road you can feel the chassis pinching my finger a little, and this is from the factory.
so again I say dont do it.
it was fun driving with the top off Sure. but the wind and noise I put the top back on after about 2 hours of wind in my hair and no A/C I dont think I will ever get another targa, maybe get an old coupe and get a 02 and up -T and do a full including OEM wire harness thru out the whole car and swap into the coupe.
and have a Zanardi fake clone. hahha
This is from the WiKI
Changes for 1995
Added targa top version: the NSX-T
Only -Ts were avilable in 1995 in the US; coupes were unavailable.
Roofs now all body colored
Bumper reinforcements were changed to extruded aluminum instead of the stamped steel
Approx. 100 lbs heaver than 1991/1992 models due to reinforcements for targa top, including: The base of the B pillar where it joins the rocker panel, larger rear bulkhead crossbar, thicker trunk leading edge panel, a redesigned and thicker-walled rear roof section, a redesigned front roof rail section, additional rib in the center rear bulkhead section, a completely redesigned and thicker upper A-pillar. There's also a redesigned and thicker upper dashboard cross member and a redesigned front lower floor section. The extruded aluminum side sills were extensively reinforced - wall thickness of the vertical center web of the 5-sided extrusion went from 2mm to 6mm.
I just picked up an 02 from Jason and while driving the car I had my arm out the window with my finger on the rubber where the cars front window frame meets the targa top. and with every bump in the road you can feel the chassis pinching my finger a little, and this is from the factory.
so again I say dont do it.
it was fun driving with the top off Sure. but the wind and noise I put the top back on after about 2 hours of wind in my hair and no A/C I dont think I will ever get another targa, maybe get an old coupe and get a 02 and up -T and do a full including OEM wire harness thru out the whole car and swap into the coupe.
and have a Zanardi fake clone. hahha
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I know of this but it is not what you, Shawn, had posted.
This is not so.
Read this carefully:
These are individual parts that were added, NOT the overall chassis or structure thickness of metal.
The actual chassis metal type and thickness has never changed from day one. This was made very clear when asked of the engineers who designed and made the car.
Some sections were made thicker by ADDING additional pieces NOT and let me stress this, NOT by making the metal thicker. This is a important difference as I will later explain.
Again these reinforcements appear to be mostly in the "frame" for the roof, ie., the pillars front, rear, verticals and horizontal front and rear.
Now I do not think this is something that makes sense at all but in theory there is no reason why you could not take these added parts from the donor car that you are getting the roof from and transferring them to the project car.
What I think is the more important question of which I am not sure, regards the 1997 -up coupe structures.
I am thinking that the 1995-up "T" and 1997-up coupe shared the exact same basic platform as the 1991-1994, with the additional of the dash, rear bulkhead, and side sills reinforcements but the 4 pillars on up to and including the roof panels might be the only parts they made separate and used them accordingly.
To clarify, I would like to have the opportunity to remove a dash for a 1997- up coupe and see if the larger cross-member is there or not. I'm thinking it is and that again it is only from the pillars up the two structures identity depart.
Let me be clear on this. I am not trying to assail anyone, we are here to learn and share because as time rolls on it will be important to know these facts if we want to preserve these fine cars and keep them in existence.
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It is also important to understand how aluminum handles stress. It does not exhibit the same properties of steel and does not deal with flex very well. Every time aluminum bends it loses a portion of its strength. This occurs in a logarithmic fashion where, for every time the metal flexes, it loses a magnitude of its strength from the previous flex. As opposed to steel that loses strength in a more linear fasion.
Take two strips of metal of the same gauge, one aluminum and one steel. Now fold each at a 45 degree angle, then back the other way at a 45 degree angle again. The steel wjll likely show a rippling effect at the bend, but retain approximately 90% of its strength. The aluminum will simply snap or be so weakened by the process that you will see separation at the fold on the inside of the first bend.
The bottom line, you are seriously compromising you safety and ruining the value of your car in the process. If you really want a NSX-T, I suggest you find a way to buy a proper one. After owning the convertible, I ended up selling it at a HUGE loss in order to own a fixed top. I wouldn't even consider the NSX-T because I am now more concerned with handling dynamics and chasis flex. A very expensive lesson to learn. I encourage you to enjoy your NSX as the way it was intended and spend your money on performance enhancing parts, not poser mods. Again, from experience.
Take two strips of metal of the same gauge, one aluminum and one steel. Now fold each at a 45 degree angle, then back the other way at a 45 degree angle again. The steel wjll likely show a rippling effect at the bend, but retain approximately 90% of its strength. The aluminum will simply snap or be so weakened by the process that you will see separation at the fold on the inside of the first bend.
The bottom line, you are seriously compromising you safety and ruining the value of your car in the process. If you really want a NSX-T, I suggest you find a way to buy a proper one. After owning the convertible, I ended up selling it at a HUGE loss in order to own a fixed top. I wouldn't even consider the NSX-T because I am now more concerned with handling dynamics and chasis flex. A very expensive lesson to learn. I encourage you to enjoy your NSX as the way it was intended and spend your money on performance enhancing parts, not poser mods. Again, from experience.
Nice post Juice.
Yes, when you bend metal you are re-arranging the molecules and spreading them apart. The 90% strength retention after bending the steel back is very optimistic IMO unless you are using mild steel in your illustration. For some grades of steel such as HS LA or Ultra HSLA the loss of molecular density will be much greater than 10% rendering some useless and unrepairable. Heat can have a similar effect to some types of metal as well, that is, dispersing the molecules and irreparably weakening the material.
For this example of changing a coupe to a "T", which I don't believe is a good idea, it really is not a consideration. Removing parts at the factory seams and transferring them should not include bending them.
Yes, when you bend metal you are re-arranging the molecules and spreading them apart. The 90% strength retention after bending the steel back is very optimistic IMO unless you are using mild steel in your illustration. For some grades of steel such as HS LA or Ultra HSLA the loss of molecular density will be much greater than 10% rendering some useless and unrepairable. Heat can have a similar effect to some types of metal as well, that is, dispersing the molecules and irreparably weakening the material.
For this example of changing a coupe to a "T", which I don't believe is a good idea, it really is not a consideration. Removing parts at the factory seams and transferring them should not include bending them.
Cutting a perfectly good coupe makes Baby Jesus cry.
Sweet little 7lb 8oz Baby Jesus.
Sweet little 7lb 8oz Baby Jesus.
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