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audax's build
- Thread starter audax
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Nice numbers. You need to refresh us with your goals for the car. Are you still going CTSC or perhaps you're thinking TT or NA/ITB? :biggrin:
Btw... I forget.. are the Fujitsubos equal length primaries?
Btw... I forget.. are the Fujitsubos equal length primaries?
I haven't fully decided yet. Most likely just mildly supercharged. I'd be happy with just 400rwhp.
That 280 could probably be a bit better with clean injectors and a tune. I didn't bother to have the injectors cleaned up since I'm quite sure I'll go FI within a couple months.
According to SoS, they are equal length:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource/FAQs/NSX/eap/header_comparison/
That 280 could probably be a bit better with clean injectors and a tune. I didn't bother to have the injectors cleaned up since I'm quite sure I'll go FI within a couple months.
According to SoS, they are equal length:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource/FAQs/NSX/eap/header_comparison/
Installed my ATI Damper yesterday 
. Have you thought about the RDX injector kit? Great injectors and good n/a gains.
. Have you thought about the RDX injector kit? Great injectors and good n/a gains.
Installed my ATI Damper yesterday
If he is going with the SuperCharger he should probably wait on the injectors....since the SOS supercharger kit comes with new injectors
Exactly.
I few people have asked how I wired the 2000-2003 Acura TL heated seat switches up to my VRH air lift kit. I'm dropping some crude details here.
I'm assuming that you have the OEM connectors and pigtails for the switches.
Each pigtail has two unique colors, the other colors are duplicated. Those wires with the same colors serve the same purpose, so they can be wired together.
Red/Black - ground
Black - ground
Red - Power for the light in the switch to illuminate with parking lights - easiest to connect to C910 by the driver's side fuse box under the dash
White/Black - Power to the switches (sent to output when the buttons are pressed) - easiest to connect to C913 which is hot on ACC
Left switch:
White/Red - 12v output when H is selected
White/Blue - 12v output when L is selected
Right switch:
Green/Red - 12v output when H is selected
Green/Blue - 12v output when L is selected
Here's the TL switch wiring diagram for reference:
I'm assuming that you have the OEM connectors and pigtails for the switches.
Each pigtail has two unique colors, the other colors are duplicated. Those wires with the same colors serve the same purpose, so they can be wired together.
Red/Black - ground
Black - ground
Red - Power for the light in the switch to illuminate with parking lights - easiest to connect to C910 by the driver's side fuse box under the dash
White/Black - Power to the switches (sent to output when the buttons are pressed) - easiest to connect to C913 which is hot on ACC
Left switch:
White/Red - 12v output when H is selected
White/Blue - 12v output when L is selected
Right switch:
Green/Red - 12v output when H is selected
Green/Blue - 12v output when L is selected
Here's the TL switch wiring diagram for reference:
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Thanks for posting that [MENTION=25140]audax[/MENTION]. Did you run a relay in between the switch and the air valve solenoid? I had mentioned this to [MENTION=25247]MexiRicer[/MENTION] that it *should* work but I wasn't sure if the switch could handle the electrical load for the long term. Would be great to hear both of your feedback on this.
No, I did not. That'd require 2 relays per switch. I did put a relay before the switches though so I'm not pulling power directly from C913. I also put a 2A fuse in front of the switches.
Now you have me curious... I'll bust out the multimeter and see what load those solenoids pull when activated.
i'd be curious if continuous draw was more than 500miliamps. It's the spikes i'm worried about. They seem like pretty hefty solenoids on those valves for what seems like a very delicate OEM seat heater switch.
I noticed that too but I wasn't sure since the diagram shows references to other diagrams not on this page. Doesn't it seem weird to you that they would route high amp wiring thru those switches? It's not unheard though. The tell all indicator would be the size of the wire going into those switches. Do you have that by chance? If they're at least 16-18gauge I wouldn't be worried about running a relay. I'll go with your recommendation on this. My OEM NSX heater (which hopefully are the same as these TL ones) switches have been mounted for maybe 3 years but still running high amp 5amp style switches for my cup solenoids. Overkill i'm sure...
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According to this page some of these solenoids draw 5amps? That's a lot... Not sure how accurate this data is.http://www.kmwperformance.com/products/electricvalves/2
HAHA!!! Opps!!!.5 is perfect!Your eyes are deceiving you. It says 0.5 amps.
