Car starts, then stalls

[Brings]

Car starts then dies. Idle drops below normal RPM.

Hi all, I just recently had some work done by a shop for valve adjustment and they replaced the spark plugs in the process. On the way home, I noticed that the idle dropped below regular idle rpm every time I pulled the car out of gear into neutral, however, it never stalled.

This has never happened before. Now the car won't even start up completely. It starts up, then stalls out immediately. I've tried holding down the accelerator while starting and it doesn't do anything. The car is a 96 with DBW.

I've been reading around Prime for similar idle issues, but how can the car go from working perfectly when I dropped it off, to not even starting the day after I pick it up? I tried resetting the ECU, which didn't work. I do not have a service manual for 95+ so I have no idea of where to start or what I'm even looking at sometimes.

I need to be able to start up the car so I can take it back to the shop. Anyone have any ideas as to what a valve adjustment or spark plug change can cause this?
Thanks in advance.

 

[C-speed]

Check all the grounds in the engine bay. A loose ground or not connected ground strap can easily cause this problem.

 

[Racerxjling]

Where did you take it? Why don't you contact the shop? They should pick up the tab to have it towed back to them or send someone out to look at it. I agree to check the grounds esp. where they worked (coil packs).

Jeff

 

[Brings]

Where did you take it? Why don't you contact the shop? They should pick up the tab to have it towed back to them or send someone out to look at it. I agree to check the grounds esp. where they worked (coil packs).

Jeff

I checked the grounds, they seem fine. I'll contact the shop when they're open. I probably don't want to drive it in this condition though.

UPDATE:
So far, I got the car to start up, only after trying to crank 3-5 times, then the idle gets all dinky and the car feels like it wants to stall. However, unlike when I drove it home, this time there is a CEL on.

I'm thinking its probably related to main relay, ignition switch, throttle body related, spark plugs, or fuel pump.

Any of these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?

 

[Briank]

Sounds like the ignition switch.

 

[scorp965]

The SoCal weather seems to be taking a toll on main relays the last 3 weeks, first my 1991 was idling and stalled, then had difficulty starting. Resoldered the main relay, and it was fine. Now, as of 2 days ago, I am having similar problems with my 1994, it will start (sometimes with difficulty), then stall - if I keep my foot into it (keep revs at 2k+) the car will not stall, until I let off the gas, or drive it around for a while.

My 1991 has been trouble free since I resoldered the relay, I believe my 1994 is also a main relay issue, unfortunately I have a roll bar in the 1994 that will need to be removed, at around 2 hours, to gain access to the relay.

I see you're in riverside, so its possible you could have a similar issue, but you description sounds slightly different than mine, does banging on the rear center bulkhead (between the headrests) allow you to start the car when you're having difficulty? The main relay controls fuel delivery, so this could perhaps be your issue.

Its easy to remove from a stock nsx, just pull the center bulkhead cover top towards you, and slide the panel up, then you will see the relay in the middle, its a black plastic square (approx 2x2") with 'mitsuba' written on it, held in by a bolt on a bracket at the bottom. Remove it, bring it inside, open the housing up, and use a soldering iron to melt and reform all of the solder joints at the bottom. In my 1991, nothing looked particularly troubling, except one hairline crack in one of the joints - I still reformed them all, and have been trouble free since (approx 2 weeks).

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I checked the grounds, they seem fine. I'll contact the shop when they're open. I probably don't want to drive it in this condition though.

UPDATE:
So far, I got the car to start up, only after trying to crank 3-5 times, then the idle gets all dinky and the car feels like it wants to stall. However, unlike when I drove it home, this time there is a CEL on.

I'm thinking its probably related to main relay, ignition switch, throttle body related, spark plugs, or fuel pump.

Any of these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?

If the car did not do this before you brought it for the work there is only one thing to do. Stop asking here, and take it back to where the work was done.

Getting responses from a bunch of us, over the internet, never seeing your car or understanding the exact details will send you off on a wild goose chase.

As far as getting it back to them, call them and have THEM come get it.

JMO,
LarryB

 

[ffffanman]

Larry, let me have on guess at it before he does this!
Did you check your vacuum lines?
Trev
K, now call them and get it fixed.

 

[lqqky]

Turn the key as you normally would to start the car but do not let go. If the car runs while you are holding the key cranked to the right, your iginition switch is bad. The sound you will hear along with the engine is the starter motor. Ignition swithces are a common failing point in all hondas. Don't try to clean it or fix it, buy a new one for approx. $90 and put it in (easy install about 1/2 hour) and save yourself alot of grief.

 

[Brings]

Turn the key as you normally would to start the car but do not let go. If the car runs while you are holding the key cranked to the right, your iginition switch is bad. The sound you will hear along with the engine is the starter motor. Ignition swithces are a common failing point in all hondas. Don't try to clean it or fix it, buy a new one for approx. $90 and put it in (easy install about 1/2 hour) and save yourself alot of grief.

I had a feeling it was the ignition switch as after a little bit of tapping around that area, the car starts right up. The car does start up on the first try though when it is warmed up.

The car is in the shop now and we'll see what they find and what the check engine light code is for.

 

[Brings]

Turns out it was throttle body related, as was the CEL code. A cleaning of the TB and she runs good as new now.
Thanks for all the help once again!

 

[ffffanman]

I was close, there are vacuum lines attached to the throttle body.....
lol
Trev
Good you got her fixed...