coilovers installed but now end links are leaking grease.

[hhoang3]

Has anyone encounter the problem of damaging the rear sway bar stabilizer / end link boots. I think when i banged out the bolt to remove the rear strut, the end links had to stress so bad the boot tore off and grease was comming out.

Does anyone remember if I have to put in an allen wrench to remove the end link assy from the sway bar.... b/c the bolts keep spinning. My friend gave me a set of adjustable end links that he got for his integra, it looks like it will work. Just need to get a shorter bolt on the other end. If not might have to get OEM.

Thanks

 

[TyraNSX]

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117815&highlight=link

Posts 13, 15, probably a few more

 

[W]

The first diagram shows that you should have used a wrench to stop the bolt from turning. If not, you risk damaging the endlink.

 

[hhoang3]

mine end link didn't break.... the bushing got damaged because of the extream angle required for strut removal

 

[ChopsJazz]

Does anyone remember if I have to put in an allen wrench to remove the end link assy from the sway bar.... b/c the bolts keep spinning.

Thanks

Yes, you do.

 

[02#154]

I've installed several suspensions lately and the process is fresh in my mind.

The bolt that goes through the shock/strut didn't turn on any of the NSXs that I worked on when I tried to remove the nut. If yours does, you can use a wrench on the other end, as the picture depicts.

On the lower end, the bolt *will* turn and needs to be held with an allen wrench while turning the nut.

To gain clearance and not put the link into extreme angles, remove the lower bolt first (the one that goes through the anti-roll bar) and the upper bolt (the one that goes through the shock/strut) will come out much easier. Put the top bolt in first when re-assembling.

J

 

[hhoang3]

hey thanks.

looks like i should of removed the end of the sway bar like you said. well a little bit of grease came out.... if it starts giving me problems guess I'll go replace the darn thing. its 90bucks ea from acura.

 

[angus]

actually , I always just undo the swaybar by removing the two 12mm bolts on each side , this way there is no stress on anything.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

actually , I always just undo the swaybar by removing the two 12mm bolts on each side , this way there is no stress on anything.

Me too

 

[atlanta nsx]

actually , I always just undo the swaybar by removing the two 12mm bolts on each side , this way there is no stress on anything.

I actually took it a step further. When i took out the 12mm bolts on each side i had a buddy on the other side of the car hammer at the same time as me while grabbing the sway bar to try to decrease the stress. seemed to work good and twice as fast!:biggrin:

 

[ALSWEL]

I just did my coilovers and I swear they (end links)were 17mm. Not removing these 2 nuts/bolts (each side) on the endlinks makes the the job almost impossible. The angle they are placed in will for sure damage them. It's also a must to have all tension (jack stands on both sides) off the sway bar. Put your 6mm allen on the end of the bolt and remove the nut (17 mm.)

Edit: While I'm at it, spring compressors are not at all needed. The 6 ft 2x4 is a must though. I used the break caliper as apposed to the rotor to press down on the hub. I also used a 2ft prybar to nudge the bottom of the shocks out of their 'holder.' Then twist them as you remove. Never came close to the CV boot (in back) as long as you keep the 2x4 doing it's job. I did have trouble getting the top of the coilovers aligned (only in back). Had to get one nut in place, then use it (tighten down) to bring the others up. I actually had to tap the engine bay 'crossbar' down to fit it over the coilover bolts. Used a rubber mallet. Not a bad job. Better than paying $800. Car looks great lowered and I have no noises/issues.

 

[hhoang3]

it was actually very easy. front I used spring compressors while assy was on the car. came out easy.

the rears was HARD... but became easy after I help of this forum. I cut a 5-6ft long piece of 2x4... wedged it between the front of the assy and use the frame and rotor (small block on top of rotor because metal guard gets in the way) to push down the assy.

one man job if you know what your doing.

one error... should of removed the end links. oh well I'll replace them later because the rubber boots are torn.