this is just a note for anyone considering adding component tweeters to the stock bose setup. I just had a set of jl's put in and it really sounds good (wont compete with aftermarket systems) but for anyone that prefers to keep the stock bose system in tact, adding components w/crossovers helped with the sound. Placed them in the triangular spots by the window.
-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
component tweeters added to stock bose setup
- Thread starter sjones
- Start date
Did you drive them with an additional amp?
How did you wire it up ...
How did you wire it up ...
Did you do it yourself, or have it done at a stereo shop?
I want to do it, but am afraid of taking off the door panels.
I want to do it, but am afraid of taking off the door panels.
its a .75-inch tweeter. Here is the model #: JL Audio VR075-CT
The back of the speaker itself is pretty flat, it comes with a small enclosure that wasn't used because it looked as if it would hit the bracket behind the triangular piece.
The back of the speaker itself is pretty flat, it comes with a small enclosure that wasn't used because it looked as if it would hit the bracket behind the triangular piece.
I'm going to do it to mine soon.. Some questions please:
1. What about the clips that hold the plastic triangle on. Did you take one out, or is there room between them to mount the tweeter?
2. What size hole did you drill through the plastic?
3. Are 1" tweeters too large to fit?
Where did you buy yours?
Thanks
1. What about the clips that hold the plastic triangle on. Did you take one out, or is there room between them to mount the tweeter?
2. What size hole did you drill through the plastic?
3. Are 1" tweeters too large to fit?
Where did you buy yours?
Thanks
mikec, you have a pm.
quick answers to your questions.. .the two plastic clips on the triangle piece are still in place. A 1inch tweeter will be too big to fit between the plastic clips which is why i went with the 3/4inch. AutoAcoustics in Hillsborough, NC did my install and supplied the JL's.
quick answers to your questions.. .the two plastic clips on the triangle piece are still in place. A 1inch tweeter will be too big to fit between the plastic clips which is why i went with the 3/4inch. AutoAcoustics in Hillsborough, NC did my install and supplied the JL's.
I'm going to put mine in this weekend. I'm not sure if I am going to surface mount the tweeters or flush mount them like yours. That will depend on how I think I can cut the metal bracket behind the plastic cover.
Concerning the triangular plastic cover that the tweeter mounts in, Does anyone have a part number and cost for replacements? If I cut mine, I want to buy a set of new ones just to have.
Thanks.. wish me luck.
Concerning the triangular plastic cover that the tweeter mounts in, Does anyone have a part number and cost for replacements? If I cut mine, I want to buy a set of new ones just to have.
Thanks.. wish me luck.
i remember when i did this on my last nsx, the stereo shop had opened the bose door speaker amp enclosure to tap the wires for sound...do you know which wires they were?
Thanks
Thanks
Yes, you remove the enclosure from the door and open it. Tap into the two wires going directly to the speaker. You will need to drill a small hole in the enclosure to bring the wire through. Seal it with hot glue.
I surface mounted my tweeters
Thanks to sjones sharing information I now have 'tweeties' too and let me tell you, they make a great difference. The stock stereo has some bass and lots of mid, but no highs. The JL Audio .75 inch tweeters add sparkle that really brings the sound alive.
I just got done with the installation. It took about 3 hours. I got the door panels off following the instructions to the letter. You need to remove the speaker enclosure from the door and open it. Next, drill a hole in the top and feed the tweeter wire through. Solder the tweeter wires to the speaker leads at the speaker. Seal the hole with hot glue. Put everything together and feed the wire up to the front triangle area where the tweeter will go.
I decided to surface mount the tweeters to the front cover rather than flush mount them. (you must cut a metal bracket behind the plastic cover in order to flush mount them and I don't have the tools or expertise to do a good job of it, so I took the easy way out.
I used hot glue to attach the speaker housing to the plastic cover and drilled a hole through the cover for the wires to exit.
Put it all together, and WOW.. It was definatly worth it.
HOWEVER.. I'd gladly have paid a stereo shop $60 to install them, but on the other hand I'm glad I did it myself and know that nothing got broken or reassembled wrong.
Thanks sjones, and everyone else on this board.
Best wishes
Thanks to sjones sharing information I now have 'tweeties' too and let me tell you, they make a great difference. The stock stereo has some bass and lots of mid, but no highs. The JL Audio .75 inch tweeters add sparkle that really brings the sound alive.
I just got done with the installation. It took about 3 hours. I got the door panels off following the instructions to the letter. You need to remove the speaker enclosure from the door and open it. Next, drill a hole in the top and feed the tweeter wire through. Solder the tweeter wires to the speaker leads at the speaker. Seal the hole with hot glue. Put everything together and feed the wire up to the front triangle area where the tweeter will go.
I decided to surface mount the tweeters to the front cover rather than flush mount them. (you must cut a metal bracket behind the plastic cover in order to flush mount them and I don't have the tools or expertise to do a good job of it, so I took the easy way out.
I used hot glue to attach the speaker housing to the plastic cover and drilled a hole through the cover for the wires to exit.
Put it all together, and WOW.. It was definatly worth it.
HOWEVER.. I'd gladly have paid a stereo shop $60 to install them, but on the other hand I'm glad I did it myself and know that nothing got broken or reassembled wrong.
Thanks sjones, and everyone else on this board.
Best wishes
Attachments
Very very nice, especially if they improve the sound quality.
When I got my 98-T, I thought the tweeter did not work and asked for it to be replaced under warranty only to be told the problem was from my end ........ LOL!
Both instalations look nice.
So, and if I may ask, how much are the pair and where did you purchase them, or presumably local stores should have them?
When I got my 98-T, I thought the tweeter did not work and asked for it to be replaced under warranty only to be told the problem was from my end ........ LOL!
Both instalations look nice.
So, and if I may ask, how much are the pair and where did you purchase them, or presumably local stores should have them?
I got mine online at
www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1820.html
$75 plus shipping. My local stereo shop could get them for $110. Howerver, if you can get them installed for $150 ish, it would be worth it providing you trust the shop.
I went with the JL Audio brand recommended by sjones. Others may work, but these sound good.
www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1820.html
$75 plus shipping. My local stereo shop could get them for $110. Howerver, if you can get them installed for $150 ish, it would be worth it providing you trust the shop.
I went with the JL Audio brand recommended by sjones. Others may work, but these sound good.
Thanks Mike.
Our best known local shop for audio/stereo carries only 1" but could get the 0.75" and quoted about $100 for similar products made by other brands; they don't carry JL but can get. Instalation is about the same $50-$75.
I presume the crossover came with the tweeters right? And did you do anything to the other tweeter between the seats or left it as is?
Our best known local shop for audio/stereo carries only 1" but could get the 0.75" and quoted about $100 for similar products made by other brands; they don't carry JL but can get. Instalation is about the same $50-$75.
I presume the crossover came with the tweeters right? And did you do anything to the other tweeter between the seats or left it as is?
Hrant said:
The 1" would be too large.
The crossover comes with, but is not built into the tweeter, but is a separate item. Easy to deal with.
I did nothing with the center tweeter. I can't even hear it unless I put my ear right next to it.
Such a shame.. The bose speaker looks very cheap. Probably upgrading just the speaker would be a big help, but I read somewhere that the speaker is 1 ohm. I've never heard of speakers below 4 ohm. I'm not sure if this is the case or not.
Anyway.. plenty of highs now. I have the trebble turned down to mid way. It used to be all the way up. The highs are nice and clear, but not overwhelming.
Will any small component tweeter work as long as it has a crossover? I don't know alot about car stereo systems and was wondering if the Pioneer TS-T110 (like this one) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5717584406&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT or the JL Audio Evolution TR050-CT (like this one), http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5716498850&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT will work.
Thanks, Wswen
Thanks, Wswen
I don't know if any tweeter will work. I suspect that there are some that will be fine. I choose the JL model because it was already known to work, and it works well for me. I didn't want to take a chance and reinvent the wheel
Any tweeter will work - the issue with those identified on E-Bay is there is no crossover, which is required in order to prevent the full range of frequencies being applied.
Incidentally - regarding the references to the the stock center "tweeter" - that's no tweeter, just another mid-range speaker. It has a really primitive "cross-over" - just a capacitor across it to sink the low frequencies.
Incidentally - regarding the references to the the stock center "tweeter" - that's no tweeter, just another mid-range speaker. It has a really primitive "cross-over" - just a capacitor across it to sink the low frequencies.
- Joined
- 14 April 2002
- Messages
- 2,273
Awesome thread - thank you to all who have contributed. I am going to do this myself as well and am really looking forward to the sub $100 stereo upgrade.
BTW - if you order by phone:
sonicelectronix.com
(661) 250-7825 / 1-877-BUY-SONIC
and tell them you were referred by Carstereo.com they will take an additional $5 off. I couldn't beat their price of $74.99 on pricegrabber.com / shopping.yahoo.com / or www.froogle.com so this is definately the best deal right now.
Can't wait to do this myself! Questions - I don't have a soldering gun nor do I know how to use one. Can I just use the "press fit" couplers similar to the ones you see with the SmartTenna?
Thanks all - this gets my vote for Top 10 Threads of the Year!
BTW - if you order by phone:
sonicelectronix.com
(661) 250-7825 / 1-877-BUY-SONIC
and tell them you were referred by Carstereo.com they will take an additional $5 off. I couldn't beat their price of $74.99 on pricegrabber.com / shopping.yahoo.com / or www.froogle.com so this is definately the best deal right now.
Can't wait to do this myself! Questions - I don't have a soldering gun nor do I know how to use one. Can I just use the "press fit" couplers similar to the ones you see with the SmartTenna?
Thanks all - this gets my vote for Top 10 Threads of the Year!
Head down to your local radio shack or automotive store & pick up some wire taps.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=64-3052
No cutting, soldering or whatever - they're pretty obvious how to use.
You will see there is a "through" channel that goes over the wire you want to "tap" onto and also a dead-leg channel that your new wire goes on to. There is a blade type of bridge that cuts through the insulation (but not the wire) and connects the two wires together.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=64-3052
No cutting, soldering or whatever - they're pretty obvious how to use.
You will see there is a "through" channel that goes over the wire you want to "tap" onto and also a dead-leg channel that your new wire goes on to. There is a blade type of bridge that cuts through the insulation (but not the wire) and connects the two wires together.
- Joined
- 14 April 2002
- Messages
- 2,273
mikec said:
Hi MikeC / others,
Couple questions. I was going to try to surface mount them too but don't understand your comment about "cutting metal bracket". Can you elaborate?
I don't have any "hot glue gun". Is there another way to do this that is equally good?
Also - never did get the answer for the size of the hole for surface mounting. Any help much appreciated.
matteni said:
The plastic triangular shaped cover that I mounted the tweeter on is held on by three clips. When you pull the plastic cover off there is a metal bracket directly behind it that contains the sockets that hold the plastic cover on. In order to flush mount the speaker, you must use a dremel tool and cut away part of this metal bracket to make room for the speaker. I didn't want to do this.
To surface mount the speaker you only need to drill a small hole in the plastic for the wire to go through. I used hot glue to cement the speaker enclosure to the plastic triangle. I would not recommend using any other type glue, such as epoxy because of the long set time and mess. If you don't have a glue gun go and buy one. They are inexpensive, easy to use, and just the thing for this application. You will also find many other uses for it around the house. Call me on my cell at 717 278 0235 if you'd like more detailed info. I am really happy with this mod because it makes a so so stereo sound much better. at least to my ears.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
