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Dali Sway Bar Settings, Which Holes To Use Front and Rear

mcano

mcano

Experienced Member
Joined
27 May 2006
Messages
1,884
Location
West San Gabriel Valley Area, CA
I'm considering installing Dali Street/Track sway bars to minimize body roll, but more importantly to eliminate or at least minimize snap over steer that the NSX is known for. Can any one tell me which holes to use, front and rear, to accomplish my goals?

I have a 97 T-Top with Bilstien shocks set at lower perch, OEM springs and 25 mm spacers at the rear wheels. I'm also considering getting 20 mm spacers on the front wheels. I'm running 02 wheels.

It is my understanding that the rear sway bar setting needs to be softer than the front. I just don't know how to properly achieve this with the Dali sway bars.

Thanks for your help!
 
Softest in the rear, go with a Zanardi rear, or leave your stock rear bar on. Then decide on front bar setting which may be limited due to the end link binding. The geometry of the end links do not allow for much adjustment and often you can't even use all of the front hole options on aftermarket front bars for the nsx.
 
stuntman said:
Softest in the rear, go with a Zanardi rear, or leave your stock rear bar on. Then decide on front bar setting which may be limited due to the end link binding. The geometry of the end links do not allow for much adjustment and often you can't even use all of the front hole options on aftermarket front bars for the nsx.
Click to expand...

Thanks Billy,

I guess I'll try to install the Dali front sway bar in the most rigid setting I can, i.e., the hole furthest away from the cut end. I suspect that even at the softest sway bar setting, the Dali Street/Track front sway bar will be noticeably stiffer than the OEM rear sway bar, which should help me accomplish my goal of eliminating or at least minimizing snap over steer.

Does anyone else have a comment to make?
 
Your OEM end links may not work on the most rigid setting. I think they might bind. If they do, you might need to get the end links from TiDave like I did and request the longer extensions. See my pic below.

IMG_20141122_181141_zps9v25nqaf.jpg
 
RYU said:
Your OEM end links may not work on the most rigid setting. I think they might bind. If they do, you might need to get the end links from TiDave like I did and request the longer extensions. See my pic below.

IMG_20141122_181141_zps9v25nqaf.jpg
Click to expand...

is the item on the right, the extended end links? Where do I get these end links?

Thanks
 
To help get rid of your snap over steer you might want to look in to getting the non compliance rear bushings and toe links installed as that is the source of the snappiness.
 
So you want it to understeer: softest in the rear and medium/harderst for front; I don't like when car pushes - makes me feel less in control as the only way to correct it would be to reduce steering angle/lift off. Lifting off can cause more issues as well as unwinding steering when you're heading out takes balls(street/canyons etc) and seat time in controlled environment. I like neutral behavior. I have dali street bars on medium F/R and it still seems to understeer more than I would like. But I think my tires are becoming limiting factor in this game. Front end is lighter than rear and I'm thinking about moving front to softer setting and run it for some time. I have Bilstens with stock '94 springs and on stock height.

This is just my view on it and I'm always listening to folks like stuntman have to say. Call me amateur who's willing to learn :)

Regan, are you running TiDave's endlinks as pictured without any rubber boot over the joint? Something like these below:

boot-kitproducts844promo_pic.jpg
 
Last edited:
Rope said:
To help get rid of your snap over steer you might want to look in to getting the non compliance rear bushings and toe links installed as that is the source of the snappiness.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm talking to Dave T about the rear bushings and toe links too. Expensive, but I think it will be worth the cost in improved handling. I ordered the Dali Street/Track front sway bar and the Zanardi rear sway bar.

Which hole should I use on the front sway bar? I don't want too much under-steer.
 
From everything I read I learned that you can not have enough front bar. I went with the 1" straight bar that Dali sells or used to sell up front and run that on the soft hole due to endlink geometry. For the rear I am running OEM. You will have to play with the various settings to find which one you like.
 
No rubber boots on mine at the moment

- - - Updated - - -

Mario, if I had your car I would run the Dali street/track bar on the stiffest setting with the OEM rear. The Dali track or the trophy from bar I'd run with the zanardi rear bar. That's just my preference but I'm not the fastest guy out there so take it with a grain of salt.

My car now has the Dali track bar in front in the stiffest setting and the zanardi rear bar but I'm also running a stiffer front spring bias.

Rope, I think for a track car what you're saying is true. However, when I run a really stiff front bar low speed bumpy driving yields for poor ride quality if the road has uneven left/right bumps.

- - - Updated - - -

Btw... The Dali straight bar is called the Trophy bar. I have that bar sitting on my shelf and I'm able to tune out under steer (on my car) with damping, rake, and tire pressure adjustments so I haven't found the need to install yet. My heavier front springs help negate the need for the Trophy front bar I reckon.
 
Hey Mario, the sister car to yours (mine) is running the Dali Trophy bar, with TiDave's end links front and rear with a OEM rear sway. I had to make my own "extenders" for the end links so that there would be zero binding. I have it in the middle setting but I can assure you the car rides flat as in no lean at all. the push or understeer I had before was due to the crappy tires I had. I have a very neutral car now. FYI.
 
Valhalla said:
Hey Mario, the sister car to yours (mine) is running the Dali Trophy bar, with TiDave's end links front and rear with a OEM rear sway. I had to make my own "extenders" for the end links so that there would be zero binding. I have it in the middle setting but I can assure you the car rides flat as in no lean at all. the push or understeer I had before was due to the crappy tires I had. I have a very neutral car now. FYI.
Click to expand...

Hello JC,

I want to eliminate body roll too, but I want to keep my spare tire, so that is why I'm going the aftermarket sway bar route. I'm taking the car to the track next month, so I'll see how the car handles then. By the way, would you like to go to the track too? I'm running with the Alpha Club.
 
Can anyone with zanardi rear bar post any specs on it? Dia? And maybe stiffness. Or relative to usdm rear bar.
 
I'm a little confused about the settings that are recommended here?
The theory says that the stiffer the sway bar on the front the more understeer you get.
My car is equipped with Bilstein shocks, Zanardi springs and 22 mm Dali bars in medium position front and rear.
I'm running with Toyo R 888 235/40*17 up front and 265/35*18 rear.
The camber is set at - 1°50' front and -2°30' rear.
Well the car understeers in tight corners and the only way to get it to corner is to lift off...
I can't imagine what would happen if i had a smaller rear bar and a larger front one?
Off course I'm not in the pro driver league.
I'd like to go for stiffer bars to reduce my roll but I would be tempted to use the same diameter front and rear?
What do you guys think?
Here's a video on a slow track that illustrates the snap oversteer at 6'30 and the understeer at 9'10
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBzM8NUA_ng
 
RYU said:
^^^ I like to run more negative front camber. Mine maxes out at -2.3 to -2.5 depending on my ride height.
Click to expand...

Which tires are you using?
 

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