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Dave's front compliance clamps, New finish

Re: Dave's front compliance clamps, New finish!

Can you elaborate on this? I love this subject!

meatwad_dancing.gif

The toe link and lower bushing work as a set to control the direction the rear wheel point(toe-in in stock alignment, front of the wheel pointed toward the centerline of the car). If these pivot points are of different firmness, the softer will compress more under cornering load, effectively making the firmer pivot a fulcrum around which the direction of the wheel changes.
 
Re: Dave's front compliance clamps, New finish!

Lets' do a group buy, $200 shipped Priority USPS, including PayPal fees, first 10 folks:
1. PKim
2. Turbo2Go
3. kwinkler
4. Myaddiction
5.
6.
7.
8
9.
10.

PM sent,
Thanks,
Dave
 
Re: Dave's front compliance clamps, New finish!

Parts have shipped for everyone who has paid!

Thanks,
Dave
 
Struggling with the same camber related issue on the rear. I have read and re read these threads, looked at the pictures, looked at the suspension on the car, and yet can not see how the rear beam, toe links will allow me to bring in the lower suspension components to eliminate the camber issue. Yes they will deal with Toe in or Toe out, but how do the get the bottom of the tires in? Thom's kit moves the top out, with all of those associated problems,, it is easy to see how his kit works to achieve this. But I just do not see how this $1000.00 kit moves the rear lower in? Please take a moment and explain this
thank you very much for all of the input I see through these pages in trying to help members out with this problem.
 
Struggling with the same camber related issue on the rear. I have read and re read these threads, looked at the pictures, looked at the suspension on the car, and yet can not see how the rear beam, toe links will allow me to bring in the lower suspension components to eliminate the camber issue. Yes they will deal with Toe in or Toe out, but how do the get the bottom of the tires in? Thom's kit moves the top out, with all of those associated problems,, it is easy to see how his kit works to achieve this. But I just do not see how this $1000.00 kit moves the rear lower in? Please take a moment and explain this
thank you very much for all of the input I see through these pages in trying to help members out with this problem.

The holes on the step down adapters for the beam bearings are drilled off-center. They are 2.5mm from the center of the hole in the beam where the stock rubber bushing mounts. The hole can be positioned, offset toward the center-line of the car, effectively making the lower arm shorter. This will reduce camber. What I like about my set up, is you can also re-position the hole toward the outside of the car and increase camber and you are not stuck with either adjustment, they can be re-positioned easily. Plus, the bearing is a NHBB Teflon lined stainless steel bearing, not a plastic bushing like all other product on the market for the NSX- this means very long life and silent function.
 
that explains the method,, Though 2.5 mm is about 1/8" I need near like 1.5 CM to get my camber issue flattened out. Any suggestions?

thanks again
 
that explains the method,, Though 2.5 mm is about 1/8" I need near like 1.5 CM to get my camber issue flattened out. Any suggestions?

thanks again

My set up gives you 1.2 degrees of adjustment, depending on the ride height. This is about 1 cm at the tire edge, there is a 4-1 ratio of the effect the arm has as compared to the tire patch.
 

The camber adjustment is made close to the centerline of the hub, the distance number truckadsjoe mentioned is at the outside radius of the tire. The outside radius of the tire is approximately 4 times farther from the centerline of the hub than the lower A-arm attachment point.

Hope this makes sense.

Dave
 
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