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DIY clutch install

Nope.. eyes are not fooling you.. only 6.. I thought that was odd too compared to the 9 that the nsx started with. Although I do have to admit... the nsx is the first car i've ever seen to have more than 6...

Pressure plate is stiff yes.. but not as people cry out to say and stuff. Although I'm a bad person to compare it to b/c my last hybrid had a pure drag clutch (still sprung hub though) in it and I drove it around the street daily... now THAT was stiff.. But stiffness over stock... yeah. i can see where some people would frown on this clutch.

This clutch is interesting in the fact that it's rather binary.. when I mean that I mean that it's either on or off... on the street I'm fine with it.. it's going up hills (particularly driveways) that kicks your tail. On a lighter note.. b/c of it's grab properties, it has forced me to learn how to heel-toe very quickly... :biggrin:

For my own personal reference I installed this clutch at 78475 miles... this way I can always go back to this post to see how long the clutch lasted.. :tongue:

thanks to those who helped again and good luck to those who wish to move forward w/ this DIY.

cheers,
x
 
Just did another one...

Few more things I think I'd add to this...

1. When removing the axles, the angle you need to remove them is usually accomplished when you both pull the hub assembly away from the car and turn it... (yes you need two people... unless you're a contortionist like i was who had my legs and feet pushing and my arms pulling). By turning it you'll get the extra 'umph' you need to pull the axle out.

2. When pulling the tranny out... try your hardest to keep the alignment of the transmission right when you pull it out. I like to use some wood on the base of the transmission to keep it straight.

3. Some may yelp at this but I didn't have to remove the downpipe...

cheers,
x
 
Larry Bastanza said:
VB,

Did you remove the entire front beam? If not, get the damn thing out of there. Also get both the front and rear mounts off completely. I typically will have the entire drivetrain hanging by the two side mounts (engine and trans). Then I support the engine, remove the trans mount and lower the entire drive train with only the upper engine mount in place(passenger side) so the trans is about 2-3" lower then it is in the installed position, then just wiggle the trans off. Again make sure the clutch fork is pulled back away from the throwout bearing.

The service manual does not even mention removal of the front beam, I could never figure why, it is so easy once that thing is out of the way.

HTH,
LarryB
Click to expand...

bringing this thread back from the dead.....

i'm working on removing my transmission right now.... making some pretty good progress, and i should be able to pull the tranny out soon, but just a few questions.....

this "front beam"..... is this that huge one up front that looks like it supports half the car? (please see picture)

also, to remove the pass. side shaft, what exactly do i have to do? do i just pop the driveshaft out of the intermediate shaft, just like i did to remove the driver side shaft from the tranny? or do i have to unbolt the joint/bearing? right now i unbolted the bearing from the block, and am having trouble getting the 3 bolts out of the int shaft joint. there is no wrench clearance.... am i pursuing this correctly? please advise.

from the pics in this thread it looks like the bolts were removed first, then the driveshaft from the int shaft....i duno - any detail/ advice for this part of the process would be appreciated. i've only messed around with it for about 15 mins so far, but i'm looking to save any frustration/confusion.... thanks.
 

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I just did this a couple months ago, ah, the memories. Next time i'll probably have it done by a shop, we'll see.
 
Larry Bastanza said:
4. Proper grease (HONDA high temp) IS REQUIRED, PERIOD you will need a pilot shaft. Follow the book for the clutch installation but go 1/2 turn per bolt is the order they show rather then 2 turns at a time. Once bolted in, I initialize with the polit shaft in place, others may do it differently. Read the book on initialization and we can discuss it further:).


HTH,
LarryB
Click to expand...


also, where exactly am i using the high temp grease?

thanks again
 
NSXrebel said:
I just did this a couple months ago, ah, the memories. Next time i'll probably have it done by a shop, we'll see.
Click to expand...

how did it go? so far everything has gone pretty smoothly for me.... just hope it stays that way - i'm getting into the tougher stages now.

any insight on my questions from your experience? I'd like to complete this job without regretting that i didn't take it to a shop :redface:
 
my snap ring finally broke into about a dozen pieces last week at 124K miles. So I am now in the process of R&R'ing my transmission.

I'm planning on putting in a single disc clutch, as I drive though some terrible traffic in Los Angeles and I figure the heavier flywheel will be a better match for moving through the miles of car parks we call "streets" out here.


I have some questions:
1. I cannot pull the clutch fork out of the housing. Doesn't seem right, does it come fully out? Is there some special trick?

2. My car supposed had the snap ring fix, I've got a receipt to prove it :rolleyes:. How do I tell a snap ring problem housing from a good one?

3. I'm putting on some 97+ headers on the car as a Midas swell.
a) how often do exhaust studs snap off?
b) does a heat/gas wrench help?
c) are the studs used on the cast manifolds usable with 97+ headers?

Thanks

Drew
 
1) If the trans is out of the car you should be able to remove the clutch fork completely. Not sure if you can do it while it is still attached to the engine.

2) Check the serial number on the trans housing. If it is within the range listed on the wiki, it likely wasn't fixed and someone just replaced the snap ring instead of replacing the defective housing and the snap ring.
 
it likely wasn't fixed and someone just replaced the snap ring instead of replacing the defective housing and the snap ring.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've gathered as much.

Here is a better version of the question:

If I give somebody a known good housing and a defective one, how does one tell the difference? (difficulty: no wrapper or part box available).

OR

How does a rebuild exchange service know if a 1991/1992 transmission has been properly repaired? Or are these rebuild customers going to be constantly billed for a new housing? The 1991/1992 model represents half the total production, so there is a good chance of getting such a unit.


Is there a casting artifact, date code or descernable machining difference in the housings?

Drew
 
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The snap ring groove was machined too wide in the defective housings. When the snap ring is in, it shouldn't move side to side within the groove. If it moves noticeable the groove was machined improperly and the housing is defective. That movement allows the bearing to hammer on the snap ring and eventually cause it to break up.
 
drew said:
I have some questions:
1. I cannot pull the clutch fork out of the housing. Doesn't seem right, does it come fully out? Is there some special trick?

2. My car supposed had the snap ring fix, I've got a receipt to prove it :rolleyes:. How do I tell a snap ring problem housing from a good one?

3. I'm putting on some 97+ headers on the car as a Midas swell.
a) how often do exhaust studs snap off?
b) does a heat/gas wrench help?
c) are the studs used on the cast manifolds usable with 97+ headers?

Thanks

Drew
Click to expand...

1. The fork will only back out about one inch. Once you remove the trans, it comes out from inside the clutch housing.

2. There has been no measurement defined for the case. The serial number is NOT on that case half and it meaningless, with the exception of knowing it was a snap-ring trans to begin with. Best to check if your paperwork has the case half P/N 21200-PR8-000. That will tell you it has been replaced. Also remember, transmissions outside the range have failed.

3a. Exhaust studs for the NSX are 10mm, pretty strong. Make sure the hardware is cold, and an overnight with PBBlaster will never hurt;).

3b. Maybe, but I have had better luck with cold hardware on the NSX

3c. Yes, studs are OK
 
EdinKali said:
The snap ring groove was machined too wide in the defective housings. When the snap ring is in, it shouldn't move side to side within the groove. If it moves noticeable the groove was machined improperly and the housing is defective. That movement allows the bearing to hammer on the snap ring and eventually cause it to break up.
Click to expand...

EVERY NSX trans has movement of the shaft side to side, (actually for/aft along the length of the coutershaft). The detailed issue is not the groove thickness, but rather the depth of the chamfer on the groove edge. There is no measurable way to detect it. At one point 8 years ago I built a special jig for a dial indicator to measure the end play of the countershaft with snapring vs. good transmissions. I reviewed some known late 1991/early 1992's in the range, and then a few 1995+ cars. After I saw no appreciable difference between good and bad transmissions, the details of the chamfer were explained to me.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Larry,

Is it the outer edges of the groove? See picture of a Civic one for illustration purpose. I have a spare transmission that's apart and it would be fun to take some close up pictures for comparisons.

Eddy
 

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Larry Bastanza said:
EVERY NSX trans has movement of the shaft side to side, (actually for/aft along the length of the coutershaft). The detailed issue is not the groove thickness, but rather the depth of the chamfer on the groove edge. There is no measurable way to detect it. At one point 8 years ago I built a special jig for a dial indicator to measure the end play of the countershaft with snapring vs. good transmissions. I reviewed some known late 1991/early 1992's in the range, and then a few 1995+ cars. After I saw no appreciable difference between good and bad transmissions, the details of the chamfer were explained to me.

Regards,
LarryB
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info Larry! I always thought it was the width of the groove.
 
Eddy said:
Larry,

Is it the outer edges of the groove? See picture of a Civic one for illustration purpose. I have a spare transmission that's apart and it would be fun to take some close up pictures for comparisons.

Eddy
Click to expand...

It's actually the inner edge. So the snap-ring can twist and snap if there is too much force for/aft on the countershaft.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Need help,after replacement of oem clutch whit same one, car don't want to go in gear.
Saw there are talks about initialization for double disc clutch?(sad I don't have manual).Is this my problem?:confused:
 
It needs to be done for the clutch to work properlly but it may not be your only problem. You could have a master-slave issue, you could have the release fork messed up or the slave push rod out of place. You did not say if you can get it into gear with the engine off?
 
Briank said:
It needs to be done for the clutch to work properlly but it may not be your only problem. You could have a master-slave issue, you could have the release fork messed up or the slave push rod out of place. You did not say if you can get it into gear with the engine off?
Click to expand...

It is going well when engine is off.
 
Sandro, it could very be the problem.

You need to initialize the clutch and see if it helps.

1. Use a bolt (8mm head) from the injector covers
2. Remove the flywheel inspection plate
3. Rotate the crankshaft pulley
4. "Lightly" (slightly, mildly) bottom out the bolt on the threaded holes in the flywheel.
5. Make sure you get all the bolts.

It takes only a few minutes. Make sure you don't tighten the bolt too much, just a little bit.

Good Luck

Drew
 
Sandro said:
And what it mean in initialization no.2.-screw bolt in 150-210"what?mm or degrees?
Click to expand...

Hello Sandro,

Installing my clutch? :wink:
In the SM 150-210'' means a half turn (180 degrees) +-30 degrees depending on how much is needed (Drew: lightly, not too much).

Good luck!
 
Congrats! Good to know.

EDIT: you owe us some pics of the installation. :wink:
 
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