DIY clutch install

[VBNSX]

I'm fairly proficient in working on cars... I've built my own drag hybrid twice.. yadda yadda.. I also have almost every tool ever made.

But recently I've been lazy about working on the NSX. Everything I know I could've done but I've been debating on if it's really worth my time. This isn't to say that my time is all that but I know that for this car, it's gotta be a bear to do.

I can usually change a fwd hybrid clutch in about 3 hours...(30 min taking it off, 2.5 putting it all back together.

Is there anyone who has done this? Just curious what your opinions are.

I was quoted 800 for just labor at acura. Which, from what I've read is about right.

thanks for any advice,
-x-

 

[Briank]

I have not done a clutch install but am thinking of attempting it in the off season so I am very intrested in any replies also.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

I think on average dealers are charging 10 hours. It gets easier after the first time, but it is a lot of work and no way three hours. I have done three of them, two on stands and once on a full hieght lift. I figure 10 hours, more or less, You need to understand how to properly grease it and initialize it, or it can be troublesome.

Let me know if you have any questions.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[VBNSX]

I think on average dealers are charging 10 hours. It gets easier after the first time, but it is a lot of work and no way three hours. I have done three of them, two on stands and once on a full hieght lift. I figure 10 hours, more or less, You need to understand how to properly grease it and initialize it, or it can be troublesome.

Let me know if you have any questions.

HTH,
LarryB

Here's my take on what I "perceive" would be a few issues.
1. Getting it out. I thought that maybe I'd tilt the engine from the passenger side to give me some tilt to slide the tranny off. Is there space to accomplish this?

2. I'll be on stands btw.

3. Space to get off and on? How much garbage do I have to remove to finally have space to seperate the tranny? Or do i have to "fully" remove it? Can I just slide it out enough to get work done?

4. What are some major issues that you have encountered besides initialization? Is the FAQ initialization technique fairly accurate?

Thanks so much for your assistance,
-xavier-

 

[Soichiro]

>>But recently I've been lazy about working on the NSX.

I really enjoy doing the occasional work on my car. But there are few things better than the feeling I get dropping it off at the dealer for something I don't want to do. It's great having someone else (that you trust) work on your car!

 

[nsxtasy]

Here's my take on what I "perceive" would be a few issues.
1. Getting it out. I thought that maybe I'd tilt the engine from the passenger side to give me some tilt to slide the tranny off. Is there space to accomplish this?

2. I'll be on stands btw.

3. Space to get off and on? How much garbage do I have to remove to finally have space to seperate the tranny? Or do i have to "fully" remove it? Can I just slide it out enough to get work done?

4. What are some major issues that you have encountered besides initialization? Is the FAQ initialization technique fairly accurate?

Thanks so much for your assistance,
-xavier-

Aren't these questions answered in the service manual? (Since you're working on your own car, you do have a service manual, don't you?)

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Actually this is an area of the service manual that best resembles toilet paper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! At least my 1991 manual was obviously written by a guy who "looked at it", but never did it.

Do not get me wrong, I insist on thoroughly digesting the manual before starting, but if you follow the 1991 book for R&R it is lacking. JMO

To answer your questions directly:

1. On stands you will need two floor jacks, one for the engine and one for the trans. You will for the most part lower the engine just a bit (2") to gain clearance to remove the trans. The trans must come completely out. YOU MUST REMOVE (actually you release it from it's pivot and pull it to remove it, you cannot fully remove it while the trans is installed) THE SHIFT FORK TO GET THE TRANS TO SEPARATE FROM THE ENGINE. This is a pull clutch

3. The stand should be 21" high. That is enough to lower the trans on a floor jack and roll it out. BTW, I have a 2'x2' thick rubber pad for under the trans case, I CONSIDER MARS AND NICKS IN THE TRANS CASE A MAJOR NO-NO.

4. Proper grease (HONDA high temp) IS REQUIRED, PERIOD you will need a pilot shaft. Follow the book for the clutch installation but go 1/2 turn per bolt is the order they show rather then 2 turns at a time. Once bolted in, I initialize with the polit shaft in place, others may do it differently. Read the book on initialization and we can discuss it further.


HTH,
LarryB

 

[VBNSX]

>>But recently I've been lazy about working on the NSX.

I really enjoy doing the occasional work on my car. But there are few things better than the feeling I get dropping it off at the dealer for something I don't want to do. It's great having someone else (that you trust) work on your car!

well I've known the service manager for like... ever.. so he helps me out.. which is cool..

So far I just had them do the Timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, freon charge, and inner/outer tie rod replacement due to accident....

I did all that within the first 2 weeks of having the car. I'm starting to get a little more comfortable with the car and decided I should start venturing through the self-service route.

It's also kinda the reason I bought an acura. I've worked on so many hondas/acuras I'm comfortable with it. So eh.. we'll see how it goes.

-x-

 

[VBNSX]

Aren't these questions answered in the service manual? (Since you're working on your own car, you do have a service manual, don't you?)

heh.. I had the service manual BEFORE I had the car...

that's ALWAYS a must..

-x-

 

[VBNSX]

Actually this is an area of the service manual that best resembles toilet paper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! At least my 1991 manual was obviously written by a guy who "looked at it", but never did it.

Do not get me wrong, I insist on thoroughly digesting the manual before starting, but if you follow the 1991 book for R&R it is lacking. JMO

To answer your questions directly:

1. On stands you will need two floor jacks, one for the engine and one for the trans. You will for the most part lower the engine just a bit (2") to gain clearance to remove the trans. The trans must come completely out. YOU MUST REMOVE (actually you release it from it's pivot and pull it to remove it, you cannot fully remove it while the trans is installed) THE SHIFT FORK TO GET THE TRANS TO SEPARATE FROM THE ENGINE. This is a pull clutch

3. The stand should be 21" high. That is enough to lower the trans on a floor jack and roll it out. BTW, I have a 2'x2' thick rubber pad for under the trans case, I CONSIDER MARS AND NICKS IN THE TRANS CASE A MAJOR NO-NO.

4. Proper grease (HONDA high temp) IS REQUIRED, PERIOD you will need a pilot shaft. Follow the book for the clutch installation but go 1/2 turn per bolt is the order they show rather then 2 turns at a time. Once bolted in, I initialize with the polit shaft in place, others may do it differently. Read the book on initialization and we can discuss it further.


HTH,
LarryB

Thanks for the heads up info. I reviewed the process and it seems intimidating like they always do. I'll go for it though...

freaky.. this is how it all started w/ my civic... I can remember when I didn't know how to do an oil change... year later I'm doin complete engine tear down and rebuilds... yikes.. every car I buy is gonna be a money pit!

-x-

 

[Tman]

I am new to the whole NSX experiance. I had never even driven an NSX before doing a clutch in one, Hell I didn't even know it had 2 clutch disks until I opened the box. Long story short, with the help of the owner of the car, Mark Bash, and I believe LarryB(not sure, didn't talk to him directly) a 95 service manual and about an hour of my time just looking at it I figured it out. Anyway back to my point, don't let it scare you, the guy who designed this car knew what he was doing. P.S I bought one after I drove it...

 

[Eddy]

A few things from my own experience...

1. What takes the longest is probably not taking the tranny off or putting it on. It's probably taking off and putting on all the braces, suspension, etc etc. And give it a complete day.

2. If you are used to B16 or H22 tranny, think twice. NSX tranny weighs about 90-100lbs compared to 40-50lbs. It's not for the faint of heart if you are thinking about benching that thing in mid air while you try to align the mainshaft and push it in all at the same time.

3. Since you are a hybrid veteran you must have a B16 or H22 mainshaft sitting around collecting dust ;-), use that to align the clutch disc. The shaft diameter and splines are the same. It's barely long enough to hold up both discs but it will work. I am not sure if those plastic alignment things you buy at pepboys will be long enough.

4. Clutch initialization is a piece of cake. Just take those bolts from the fuel injector cover, screw it all the way into the init holes and back them out. If you sit down and take those mechanisms apart while your clutch is out, you will understand their purpose and how they work.. And also why you need to initialize them. Briefly, their sole purpose is to take up the slack between the discs and the plates when the discs wear out.

5. Good luck and take breaks! Nothing worse than frustrated mind and tired arms.

Eddy

 

[VBNSX]

A few things from my own experience...

1. What takes the longest is probably not taking the tranny off or putting it on. It's probably taking off and putting on all the braces, suspension, etc etc. And give it a complete day.

2. If you are used to B16 or H22 tranny, think twice. NSX tranny weighs about 90-100lbs compared to 40-50lbs. It's not for the faint of heart if you are thinking about benching that thing in mid air while you try to align the mainshaft and push it in all at the same time.

3. Since you are a hybrid veteran you must have a B16 or H22 mainshaft sitting around collecting dust ;-), use that to align the clutch disc. The shaft diameter and splines are the same. It's barely long enough to hold up both discs but it will work. I am not sure if those plastic alignment things you buy at pepboys will be long enough.

4. Clutch initialization is a piece of cake. Just take those bolts from the fuel injector cover, screw it all the way into the init holes and back them out. If you sit down and take those mechanisms apart while your clutch is out, you will understand their purpose and how they work.. And also why you need to initialize them. Briefly, their sole purpose is to take up the slack between the discs and the plates when the discs wear out.

5. Good luck and take breaks! Nothing worse than frustrated mind and tired arms.

Eddy

HOLY MOLY! use the int shaft of the prelude (well actually it's an accord int shaft mated w/ 90-93 integra axles) Will that still work?
I can't even imagine the size of this thing... I appreciate all the help you gave are offering and have given. Just taking a small break considering all the hurricane damage that has occured in this area.

thanks again,
-x-

 

[Eddy]

mainshaft!! not int. shaft

I said and meant the mainshaft inside the transmission.. Not the intermediate shaft. I don't assume everyone has a spare mainshaft sitting around but if you do, it will work.

Eddy

 

[VBNSX]

Re: mainshaft!! not int. shaft

I said and meant the mainshaft inside the transmission.. Not the intermediate shaft. I don't assume everyone has a spare mainshaft sitting around but if you do, it will work.

Eddy

He he.. my bad.... actually.. yeah I think I do have an extra h series mainshaft.. heh.. sad.. all those years and $$ down to what? the need for the "extra" tranny's main shaft.

go figure..

thanks again,
-x-

 

[MJK]

Did you end up doing this?

How did it go?

 

[VBNSX]

Restoring a long lost thread... it's hard to believe I waited this long.. anywho.. I'm working on it now. I just searched this and thought I'd pull up a few pointers from Larry's post.

I'll keep everyone informed...

I intend on doing this rather slowly.. I'm not in a super-duper rush (got two weeks).

So for today I have:

(break out your manuals little kiddies)..

Made it all the way to the step that says to remove the A pipe...

Instead of beating myself up over the bolts that attach the exhaust manifold (since i KNOW they're going to be a bear).. .I'm going to Advance Auto to buy some more PB Blaster and just spray it when I get in.. before i go to bed... when I wake up... before i leave to work... you get the picture..

x

 

[VBNSX]

While waiting....

I decided to move forward and take out the driver side axle..

no big deal so far..

One thing I did have fun with..

if you have stainless lines when pulling the shaft out.. the hub assembly may not stretch long enough b/c of the length of the lines..

proceeding on...........

x

 

[MJK]

I feel this turning into a DIY.. take some pics along the way?

 

[VBNSX]

I was thinking about doing that.. ok.. i'll start taking some..

x

 

[1TITENSX]

X,

If you get in touch with Scott, he installed a new clutch on his NSX before he sold it. I was talking to him about this at a car wash about 2-3 months ago. If you don't still have his number, I can see if I do.

Here is a clutch DIY. You'll have to translate it since it is Japanese.

link

 

[VBNSX]

Here are a few..

If you have any that you want specifically.. speak now..

Here is the toe link... Mental note.. follow instructions to a T.. it said to remove from the rear beam.. not the whole link.. go figure i attempted to take the whole link out.. derp..

Here are the two bolts to remove LCA.. first pic is of the rear.. second is on the front by the tie in section of the bar..

where the manual says to remove the bolt from the bottom of the shock.. it's easier to disconnect from the sway bar.. here it is..

removal of starter:

bay picture from the top:

on the rear part of the lca i noticed a few hash marks... i decided to mark my location and put it in the same way i took it out..

that's it for now..
x

 

[MJK]

This is very cool of you to do - I know it takes some time. Thanks!

 

[SugoiNSX]

alternator?
.
.
.
.
.
You mean the starter right! LOL


Anyway, I have installed all of my clutches on my own and I can say that it is very easy as long as you have the right tools. I am very luck to have 4 lifts and trans jacks in my shop and almost every tool or machine related to automobiles. Its a very easy job and can be done on your own IF you have the basic automotive skills and previous experience.

 

[VBNSX]

alternator?
.
.
.
.
.
You mean the starter right! LOL


Anyway, I have installed all of my clutches on my own and I can say that it is very easy as long as you have the right tools. I am very luck to have 4 lifts and trans jacks in my shop and almost every tool or machine related to automobiles. Its a very easy job and can be done on your own IF you have the basic automotive skills and previous experience.

yikes.. one of those things where you type but don't think.. :wink:

anywho.. yeah... back in my drag days I used to do swaps and complete rebuilds from nitrous to all motor.. (highest i got to was a 13.5:1 H22).. oh the days.. anywho.. i'll be pressing on including pictures for everyone..

cheers,
x