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DMS Performance intake manifold

scammy said:
........I think I'm going to get those 3110 TODA pistons ......
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http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/en/product/piston/c30-piston.html

Wondering why you are considering TODA which I think is overpriced.

The USA site shares the same information on the pistons.

What alloy are those forged with? 4032 or 2618? One is more idle for NA or low boost build and the other is for high boost build (but is suppose to wear out faster and require a full warm up before driving).

Not sure if you checked out my build:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/154927-Semi-DIY-Mild-Engine-Build-for-FI


One more thing.... from the pics those look like partial skirt pistons. Is that what you want?
 
scammy said:
Yep but something broke so we will have to pull her apart and find out what so looks like a new engine build, I think I'm going to get those 3110 TODA pistons and get her fully balanced I have most of the parts just lacking time with a lot happening this year. My tuner really wanted this to have some sort of idle control so will look into that as well
Click to expand...


I sent out a remote mounted IAC plate with your order. That will allow for idle control. If you want I can send you another picture of my setup for your tuner to see how it works. I hope things are progressing for you nicely as I am anticipating the results :)
 
dmscrx said:
I sent out a remote mounted IAC plate with your order. That will allow for idle control. If you want I can send you another picture of my setup for your tuner to see how it works. I hope things are progressing for you nicely as I am anticipating the results :)
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Send another few pictures anyway Justin it's not going to hurt having more info you did send the plate however I cannot remember the exact discussion on what my tuner wanted but he was mumbling about having idle control, but like I said we broke it before we got any further. [MENTION=17226]BATMANs[/MENTION] I am looking at the TODA kit for a N/A build and stay within the class I am going to run in here, the car is mainly a track car and doesnt see the road much now apart from driving to the track. The plan is to attack the engine this coming winter so nothing is going to happen anytime soon apart from parts gathering, there are a few track cars running this setup in Japan and I have some contacts over there
 
For NA build and track a partial skirt with 4032 forged alloy is the best IMO.

Reasons:

1. lightest piston with regards to partial skirt (less material)
2. Lightest forged alloy
3. Piston tolerances are tighter than the 2618 since they don't have much growth and shrinkage during the warm up and cooling down phases.
 
BATMANs said:
For NA build and track a partial skirt with 4032 forged alloy is the best IMO.

Reasons:

1. lightest piston with regards to partial skirt (less material)
2. Lightest forged alloy
3. Piston tolerances are tighter than the 2618 since they don't have much growth and shrinkage during the warm up and cooling down phases.
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I will email TODA back and ask what they are and I have some photos I can upload here later, and maybe I should do a thread when the progress starts rather than here
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Also since 4032 thermal expansion and contraction (from warming up to cooling down) is more like most OEM cast pistons they tend to last longer and there is less oil consumption and contamination (oil stays cleaner longer like a stock NSX in this case).

U want the strongest piston that can take detonation? full skirt 2618. But that is more for FI applications - usually at boost levels above .5 bar.

the more frequent u cold start the car the more oil it will burn and contaminate since the pistons are smaller until it warms up.

In both my NSX and GTO I've noticed anywhere from 2k miles - 1k miles/quart of oil. So be prepared for that.
 
BATMANs said:
Also since 4032 thermal expansion and contraction (from warming up to cooling down) is more like most OEM cast pistons they tend to last longer and there is less oil consumption and contamination (oil stays cleaner longer like a stock NSX in this case).

U want the strongest piston that can take detonation? full skirt 2618. But that is more for FI applications - usually at boost levels above .5 bar.

the more frequent u cold start the car the more oil it will burn and contaminate since the pistons are smaller until it warms up.

In both my NSX and GTO I've noticed anywhere from 2k miles - 1k miles/quart of oil. So be prepared for that.
Click to expand...
I got the reply from TODA so cant answer your question see their reply, also uploaded the photos for you. When I get the engine built Justin I will update here for you
Hi again,


I know material, but it is company secret.


Sorry to say it is not official info.


Thanks & best regards


TODA RACING
 
Not sure about you.... but that doesn't give me any confidence.

The powers that their cars are making can be handled by the best in the USA, Wiseco (which is what I used in the NSX and GTO build - since they have done many F1 and Top Fuel pistons) and Diamond 7075 pistons (the hardest alloy and it's used in the Koenigsegg Agera R).



scammy said:
I got the reply from TODA so cant answer your question see their reply, also uploaded the photos for you. When I get the engine built Justin I will update here for you
Hi again,


I know material, but it is company secret.


Sorry to say it is not official info.


Thanks & best regards


TODA RACING
Click to expand...
 
dmscrx said:
Picture of the current design:



Current price for manifold package is $2800 plus shipping. It comes with billet throttle body(or adapter flange for DBW), fuel rails, and remote mount IAC plate (for non-DBW guys). Since there are so many variables with setups please message me directly if you have specific requirements and I'll put together a package that works for you.
Click to expand...
Are you offering the fuel rails by themselves?
 
stuntman said:
Are you offering the fuel rails by themselves?
Click to expand...


I really wish I could update my original post on this thread so I can update the picture with the Gen2 design. I may have to start another thread to do so. Anyway, yes I can make rails by themselves. I am currently waiting for new billets (which should be here any day now) and I can make some.

- - - Updated - - -

scammy said:
I got the reply from TODA so cant answer your question see their reply, also uploaded the photos for you. When I get the engine built Justin I will update here for you

Thanks Cam :)
Click to expand...
 
I may be interested in a set of rails as well, but I would want to know the turn around time after payment. Also, I would like to see the fitment on a stock manifold to gauge clearance on all parts.
 
Sduff@Composites said:
I have a set of rails on my car that's stock. Although not Justin's they would be the same I believe.
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I have other parts on my car that come close to the stock rails or run by the stock rails. I don't doubt the rails fit, but I would prefer to get images against everything around the rails to make sure clearance is fine. To be honest I hope Justin can get pictures of oem vs his rails to show possible differences in clearance, if none at all. I don't think that is asking for much. No offense but I've guinea pigged enough custom parts at retail cost.
 
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jones83 said:
I have other parts on my car that come close to the stock rails or run by the stock rails. I don't doubt the rails fit, but I would prefer to get images against everything around the rails to make sure clearance is fine. To be honest I hope Justin can get pictures of oem vs his rails to show possible differences in clearance, if none at all. I don't think that is asking for much. No offense but I've guinea pigged enough custom parts at retail cost.
Click to expand...

I was ultimately just replying saying they fit on stock setup configuration since I don't have anything out of the ordinary. Also I mention this so that Justin could post a picture of my setup since its at his shop. I have a blurry picture on my phone that I would put up but I don't think it'll be much help.

No offense taken. And yes I agree getting pictures up will be key to help you!
 
- - - Updated - - -

I have received a big lot of rail material; enough to do 15 sets. I am finishing up two more intake manifolds and then I will make two extra sets of rails for the OEM manifold. They will sit here until they sell. I will post pics of everything when I'm finished. Giggity
 
dmscrx said:
- - - Updated - - -

I have received a big lot of rail material; enough to do 15 sets. I am finishing up two more intake manifolds and then I will make two extra sets of rails for the OEM manifold. They will sit here until they sell. I will post pics of everything when I'm finished. Giggity
Click to expand...

Interesting...

Will you be offering in kit form with everything needed to plum them in? ie fittings and hoses?

Do these run from oem fuel filter?

Have you got a diagram or images of the plumbing?

I could be interested in a kit.

Might be worth producing a complete kit as an option for those who wish to entirely run in new feeds and aftermarket filter from the pump. oem and walbra pumps.
 
jaffaz32 said:
Interesting...

Will you be offering in kit form with everything needed to plum them in? ie fittings and hoses?

Do these run from oem fuel filter?

Have you got a diagram or images of the plumbing?

I could be interested in a kit.

Might be worth producing a complete kit as an option for those who wish to entirely run in new feeds and aftermarket filter from the pump. oem and walbra pumps.
Click to expand...

My original intent was to sell the rails bare. Most people want to do their own thing from that point. If anyone needs rails due to fuel volume problems then the stock filter should be removed anyway in favor of one that will flow more. I understand there may be some who wish to have rails just for looks but I would rather it be in the hands of the installer to make it work for the factory hookups. I can make a kit from the tank to the rails, complete with regulator etc. but I have a feeling no one wants to pay for it. I can show the way I like to run my lines which looks much cleaner than what I have seen in other examples. Everyone else's needs may be different than yours in terms of line and fitting size, fitting colors, brand of filter, micron of filter, color and port options for regulators, etc so it may not even be possible. Anyone else have an opinion on a possible kit?
 

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