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Door seal (aka vapor barrier) part number mystery

Joined
3 November 2011
Messages
3,348
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
I am planning for a deep dive back into my doors next year and want to replace the door seals which had been butchered up pretty badly by a previous owner. I did fabricate some temporary seals from some 6 mil poly; but, those seals are quite thick and bulky and bunch up in places so the plan is to go with OEM.

The North American part numbers for the seals are:

72321-sl0-900 Right side
72361-sl0-000 Left side

These part numbers are unavailable from Amayama; but, but they do list

72321-sl0-000 Right side
72361-sl0-900 Left side

The reason I ask about this is that the Amayama parts are 1/3 of the cost from the North American discounters and delivery is cheaper and faster. The Amayama parts are JDM and I am curious as to what the differences might be relative to the North American parts. About the only thing I can think of is that there might be slightly different access holes for the extra wiring associated with the driver versus passenger side switches; but, I don't remember significant differences in the left and right sides when I had them off, other than them being mirror images.

Has anybody ordered and installed the JDM seals on their car and were there any issues?
 
Almost certainly the part numbers are LHD versus RHD; but, is there any significant difference between the parts despite the different numbers?

After 19 years on the car, the original white Honda adhesive remained remarkably gooey / sticky, to the point that I just applied the poly to the original adhesive and it sealed without issue. Wonderful stuff. Like acoustic sealant used for vapor barriers on house construction. Keep small children and careless adults away because they will be wearing it in an instant if they get close - even after it has been on the car for 19 years.

The Honda North American part number for the adhesive is 08712-0003 which will give you a tube that is more than a lifetime's worth of sealant unless you are in the autobody business. 3M makes a rope caulk which I think is a butyl putty and much easier to apply and not nearly as messy as the original Honda sealant - if you have managed to clean all the original stuff off. It doesn't stick as well as the original Honda product and most butyls tend to harden with age. It is black / grey as opposed to white for the Honda product.
 
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Without knowing the vagaries of US, Euro LHD cars; I would suspect the difference is the fabricated box out within which the electronic window/ locking(?) controller sits. On UK RHD cars this is on RH (UK drivers) side, from memory the LH (UK passengers) side is plain. If you have the door cards off; play ‘spot the difference’ between them, that difference will probably be mirrored in the JDM and US versions.
 
Without knowing the vagaries of US, Euro LHD cars; I would suspect the difference is the fabricated box out within which the electronic window/ locking(?) controller sits. On UK RHD cars this is on RH (UK drivers) side, from memory the LH (UK passengers) side is plain. If you have the door cards off; play ‘spot the difference’ between them, that difference will probably be mirrored in the JDM and US versions.

Are you talking about the projections on the back of the driver's door switch panel for the combined window switch and the mirror controls which do not exist on the passenger side? If so, that is what I was thinking about when I made that 'extra wiring' comment in the original post. There is a pocket on the driver side liner to accommodate that stuff. There would also be the little opening for the security light indicator which is on the driver side door. The delivered cost for both door liners from Amayama is about $80 Cdn versus $240 Cdn from a US discounter. For that price difference I was thinking that I might just make my own little pocket on the left side liner for the switches if that was the only significant difference. If there is something that requires a lot of cut and fit surgery I might just suck it up and go for the the proper LHD liners.
 
Are you talking about the projections on the back of the driver's door switch panel for the combined window switch and the mirror controls which do not exist on the passenger side? If so, that is what I was thinking about when I made that 'extra wiring' comment in the original post. There is a pocket on the driver side liner to accommodate that stuff. There would also be the little opening for the security light indicator which is on the driver side door. The delivered cost for both door liners from Amayama is about $80 Cdn versus $240 Cdn from a US discounter. For that price difference I was thinking that I might just make my own little pocket on the left side liner for the switches if that was the only significant difference. If there is something that requires a lot of cut and fit surgery I might just suck it up and go for the the proper LHD liners.

Yes, I think this is precisely the difference. Everything is swapped on the JDM cars because it is RHD. So, the cuts on the barrier match. I bought the Amayama JDM versions for my LHD and will just cut and/or tape over any differences. The cost savings is worth it to me. I'm planning a full week to sort out my doors and window glass. I'm debating butyl tape or the oem sealant.
 
3m window weld ribbon sealer works great for the moisture barriers and is much less messy than the nasty shit Honda uses from the factory. It’s also easy to separate and reseal later - just gently pull and cut it with a knife, and stick it back down when you’re done. Its lasted several years and multiple mess free removals and reapplications in my car.
 
Yes, I think this is precisely the difference. Everything is swapped on the JDM cars because it is RHD. So, the cuts on the barrier match. I bought the Amayama JDM versions for my LHD and will just cut and/or tape over any differences. The cost savings is worth it to me. I'm planning a full week to sort out my doors and window glass. I'm debating butyl tape or the oem sealant.

Excellent. I am trusting that you will be well along with your project body work before I get around to doing this so you will be able to confirm whether it is a good or bad idea.
 
Just a thought, couldn’t you put the RHD driver piece on the LHD driver side but “inside out”? Not sure if the barriers are sided or not.


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Just a thought, couldn’t you put the RHD driver piece on the LHD driver side but “inside out”? Not sure if the barriers are sided or not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My old liners have some horizontal curvature to them. I don't know whether they come with that curvature or they develop the curvature after being installed and stretched a bit after the door card goes on. If they come flat then what you describe might be an option. The pockets for the switches and sealing flaps over the ports for the electrical connections are definitely sided - installed on the outside of the liner. The sealing flaps on the ports probably isn't an issue; but, I don't know whether you could flip the pockets inside out.

I am confident Honcho will figure all this out and set a path for us to follow.
 
New door barriers are a flat plastic sheet, they don't fit particularly well even from the factory because of this and you end up with minor bunching in various places around the adhesive line, so a thick bead of adhesive is necessary for a proper lasting seal which is why I like the window weld. You won't be able to use one inside out without modification as there are flaps on the back side intended to direct drips over and around the cutouts, as well as a clear plastic molded part where the power door lock module sits, which would have to be cut out and either patched or reversed in order to use one backwards.

You might as well just make one out of plastic sheeting as the end result would be less hacked up.

Edit: Here's a photo from a few years ago when I did my door seals as a part of my "just bought an old car" maintenance. You can see how the flat sheet doesn't conform particularly well so you end up with a lot of ridges around the edges. You can also see the flaps behind the cutouts. Also that sealant isn't window weld, its something else that ended up not being sticky enough for the application.

IMG_1697.jpg
 
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