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EPS at what price?
- Thread starter rykev16
- Start date
EPS problems are not uncommon so there has been others :wink:
I repair the EPS control modules for $100 but if you contact me on NSXprime then its $80. Assuming you have a bad control module. Do you have any more info on what codes the EPS system is giving?
I repair the EPS control modules for $100 but if you contact me on NSXprime then its $80. Assuming you have a bad control module. Do you have any more info on what codes the EPS system is giving?
rykev16 said:
You just ship your EPS module to Brian, he will fix it and ship it back.
12 is a problem with the torque sensor in the steering gear box. You can try a different or repaired control unit but I think you are looking at a replacment of the rack and pinion unit. PM Zennsx here on prime he may have a rebuilt control unit you can try.
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UGH, that is some baaad news. There was one (a used rack) on ebay a couple months back. Do a search as I hotlinked it for a guy here who ended up not needing it.
I can try to look it up if you do not find it.
I can try to look it up if you do not find it.
Manual conversion :biggrin:
I think we'll see more of this when more EPS racks go bad and the price difference is $4-5k.
I think we'll see more of this when more EPS racks go bad and the price difference is $4-5k.
Another data point- my EPS went out recently as well this spring.
It's such a toss-up for me between having the EPS and non having the added assist sometimes. Added weight for the PCU, added dimensions for the rack that I could really use to better ideally seat my front under tray, little less feedback, vs. having the power assist- which I will say is very nice with 255's in the front and does lend the lighter driver input feel- even at speed. Inevitably I suspect I will likely just pull it, swap the bushings, and revert back to the manual thou some winter. There was a thread recently on corner carvers about aftermarket racks, not sure if anyone caught it.
Anyways, few miles, light went on and power assist was lost instantly, and with a few resets of the clock fuse I found to also be very consistent. Aggh..
I was certain the issue was the power control unit as others have experienced (auto relays go out all the time so why not after 8 years of good use right), so I fixed mine by ordering the two automotive SPST relays and dremeling them down to fit on the dual sided PCB mount board.
Unforunately my de-soldering tool was not up to the task even with two weller irons, (getting the relays out really is a PITA) so I eventually just dropped it off locally and had it done for a small fee. Total fix cost- $64.00
Well, almost fixed - the symptoms changed, now the light eventually does fire as the speed edges up... but hey wow the power assist is not actually lost until then next ignition off-on cycle. Better, but just about equally as annoying unless I plan on installing a switch for the clock fuse in the cabin.. lol.... so I pulled them code last night, 33- Speed Sensor (scratching my head as my speed-o sure seems to be ok and I just put a new speed sensor in a year ago). Maybe continuity on the front to back wiring or the solder didn't contact the colet on both sides of the PCB board.
I'm now working my way through the trouble shooter flow chart today, I think I can have this bug wrapped up by late tonight. I've asked myself the same thing- EPS.. but at what price.. yay or nah?
On another off-topic some-what related note... you know.. as the car ages and electronics increasing become failure points and we work on them more.. one thing has kinda perked my interest having some back ground in EE... seeing all of the various potentiometers on the various NSX PCB boards for the various modules (e.g. ABS, TCS, etc...) and looking back at part numbers for the various models over the years.. might give one pause, and encourage one to study up more on the OE circuit theory/operation.. as I am beggining to suspect adjustments could easily be made by knowledable enthusiasts. For example, the factory outter diameter calibration.. has anyone else looked into this?
It's such a toss-up for me between having the EPS and non having the added assist sometimes. Added weight for the PCU, added dimensions for the rack that I could really use to better ideally seat my front under tray, little less feedback, vs. having the power assist- which I will say is very nice with 255's in the front and does lend the lighter driver input feel- even at speed. Inevitably I suspect I will likely just pull it, swap the bushings, and revert back to the manual thou some winter. There was a thread recently on corner carvers about aftermarket racks, not sure if anyone caught it.
Anyways, few miles, light went on and power assist was lost instantly, and with a few resets of the clock fuse I found to also be very consistent. Aggh..
I was certain the issue was the power control unit as others have experienced (auto relays go out all the time so why not after 8 years of good use right), so I fixed mine by ordering the two automotive SPST relays and dremeling them down to fit on the dual sided PCB mount board.
Unforunately my de-soldering tool was not up to the task even with two weller irons, (getting the relays out really is a PITA) so I eventually just dropped it off locally and had it done for a small fee. Total fix cost- $64.00
Well, almost fixed - the symptoms changed, now the light eventually does fire as the speed edges up... but hey wow the power assist is not actually lost until then next ignition off-on cycle. Better, but just about equally as annoying unless I plan on installing a switch for the clock fuse in the cabin.. lol.... so I pulled them code last night, 33- Speed Sensor (scratching my head as my speed-o sure seems to be ok and I just put a new speed sensor in a year ago). Maybe continuity on the front to back wiring or the solder didn't contact the colet on both sides of the PCB board.
I'm now working my way through the trouble shooter flow chart today, I think I can have this bug wrapped up by late tonight. I've asked myself the same thing- EPS.. but at what price.. yay or nah?
On another off-topic some-what related note... you know.. as the car ages and electronics increasing become failure points and we work on them more.. one thing has kinda perked my interest having some back ground in EE... seeing all of the various potentiometers on the various NSX PCB boards for the various modules (e.g. ABS, TCS, etc...) and looking back at part numbers for the various models over the years.. might give one pause, and encourage one to study up more on the OE circuit theory/operation.. as I am beggining to suspect adjustments could easily be made by knowledable enthusiasts. For example, the factory outter diameter calibration.. has anyone else looked into this?
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I have an rebuilt EPS unit ready. PM me for details
Unforunately my de-soldering tool was not up to the task even with two weller irons, (getting the relays out really is a PITA)
Did you happen to notice if your soldering iron has a ground? The board is loaded with FETs which can be damaged by a non grounded iron..
Did you happen to notice if your soldering iron has a ground? The board is loaded with FETs which can be damaged by a non grounded iron..
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Yes, PM sent.
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