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Frequency for Oil Changes

Joined
19 June 2003
Messages
213
Location
California
How often should I change my oil?

I use Mobile-1 Synthetic. I put no more than 3000 miles every 6-months. I do not drive short distances, thus not making it fall under a "severe usage" category.

I've been changing my Synthetic Oil every 6-months (regardless of the low miles) for years on my cars.

Just wondering if I'm over doing it. If I'm driving so little, would it be OK to push the oil change to 1-year?

With gas prices so high, just looking to save a buck or two here and there.... I think you guys will understand. =)
 
How often should I change my oil?

I use Mobile-1 Synthetic. I put no more than 3000 miles every 6-months. I do not drive short distances, thus not making it fall under a "severe usage" category.

I've been changing my Synthetic Oil every 6-months (regardless of the low miles) for years on my cars.

Just wondering if I'm over doing it. If I'm driving so little, would it be OK to push the oil change to 1-year?

With gas prices so high, just looking to save a buck or two here and there.... I think you guys will understand. =)

I'm similar to you (5000 miles a year), and I change my oil twice a year. Once in the Summer, and once in the Winter (replace filter every other oil change).
 
Rest easy. You drive your car so infrequently - and aparently in light use conditions - that you'll never be able to tell the difference between oil types or frequency of changes.

Once a year, and plain old dino oil is more than sufficient for your use of the vehicle.
 
I change mine every 6 months and usually only put on 5K miles a year. I do it myself so it doesn't cost that much. I think it is cheap insurance.
 
I'm similar to you (5000 miles a year), and I change my oil twice a year. Once in the Summer, and once in the Winter (replace filter every other oil change).

JMO, If I am going to change the oil, change the filter too.
I put 4k miles on my car last season, stored in the winter, and changed it this spring prior to taking it out of storage. I will probably do the same thing next spring. Mobil 1 and Acura Filter. Only the best for "The Other Woman".
Brad
 
You just can't know what is "optimal" frequences unless you do a few oil samples.

With that said, "good enough" is 3000-5000 miles under "normal" driving conditions.

If you track the car hard, I am now a believe in before/after track days (maybe even sessions) from seeing some hard driving analysis.

If you beat on the car regularly, I'd say 1500-3000 miles max. Maybe 2500 miles max as it all depends on what "beating the car regularly" means..
 
Asking about the frequency of oil changes is like asking about religious beliefs - it's mostly a matter of personal opinion. The only really objective "fact" that you can point to is Honda's recommended interval of 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first, on the early year NSXs, and more frequently if your use fits in the "severe conditions" category (which is NOT track use, but rather, short trips or extreme weather/environmental conditions). I'm not sure of the changes for the later ('97+) model years, but I suspect they increased the time interval to 12 months and left the mileage interval as previously recommended.

Some people adhere to the old mechanic's saw of "3000 miles or 3 months" but that advice comes from many years ago, when both the cars and the oil were far more primitive than they are today.

My NSX sits for six months a year, and I generally drive it less than 5000 miles per year, so I change mine once a year, using a major brand of synthetic 10W30. My other car has a recommendation for 7500 miles and 12 months, and that's what I follow. I do not shorten the intervals for track use (unless the oil starts looking dark). I've had the oil analyzed (even after track use) and it comes out fine.

Whatever interval you use, I think the advice in the owner's manual to check the oil level at every fuel fillup is good. And if you track the car, check the oil level before every session.
 
For low use cars I beleive the most important oil and filter change is actually before you store it for the winter. Contaminants and corrosive acids acumulate in the oil and if you leave it in the car for an extended period they can actually etch the metal parts and hurt seals. Damage that is not immediately obvious but according to some experts can be over time. I always change the oil before winter storage or any period over several months if there is more than a thousand miles on the oil.

Previous threads on this subject offered the same recommendations. The exesively anal change it after storage as well, but I think this is going overboard.

Tytus
 
My father was a mechanic for over 45 years. His words:
"Never change your oil based on time. If oil goes bad in your crank case, it would also go bad in the plastic container. Have you ever seen an expiry date on oil?"
Of course this would not apply if you drove in traffic all the time.
Heavy industry and the marine industry uses engine hours as an indication. This is best. You could always install an engine hours meter under the hood.

I change mine every 3000 miles. every second year.
Mobil 1 synth.
 
My father was a mechanic for over 45 years. His words:
"Never change your oil based on time. If oil goes bad in your crank case, it would also go bad in the plastic container. Have you ever seen an expiry date on oil?"
Of course this would not apply if you drove in traffic all the time.
Heavy industry and the marine industry uses engine hours as an indication. This is best. You could always install an engine hours meter under the hood.

I change mine every 3000 miles. every second year.
Mobil 1 synth.

It would be interesting to see what an oil analysis would look like on your 2 year old oil with low miles. For my boat, I put on 50 hours a year and only change the oil once at the beginning of the season. I always wondered if it matters with age. I am probably wasting my money on the NSX, but she's worth it.
 
I do every 3000 miles. New filter and I use Royal Purple 10W30. I have a magnetic drain plug to pick up metal sludge (none yet!). I do it myself because it's quite easy and very enjoyable.
 
Aren't our engines (including block and pistons) made of aluminum, which is non-magnetic? (No, I don't know the answer.)

Well there are still a few steel parts, I think, i.e. crankshaft, camshafts, rocker arms, oil pump and don't forget the widget arm.

Brad
 
And the Cylinder Wall Sleeves...:wink:
 
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