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Guys who are DROPPED - list your Alignment specs here....

EuroBoutique

EuroBoutique

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I just brought my car in for an alignment after installing a new set of super sticky RE01's on the rear. My car is pretty slammed but it drives super nice with no rubbing at all which is a must requirement for me :)

Alignment specs came back so wanted to share - just wondering are all slammed NSX's running 4 degrees of negative camber in rear?

Car is sitting on Tien Flex with 18/18 BBS LM's

Front Left:
Camber: -1.4
Caster: 9.0
Toe: -0.12

Front Right:
Camber: -1.3
Caster: 8.8
Toe: -0.11

Rear Left:
Camber: -3.7
Toe: 0.16

Rear Right:
Camber: -3.9
Toe: 0.16
 
That is way too much negative camber in the rear for a street driven car unless that is the look you are after. Even if you tracked your car, that is still too much negative camber for an RE01R. Something closer to 2-2.5 degrees of negative camber would be optimal depending on target usage. That's one of the side effects of extreme lowering.
 
my car is slammed as well and the least i can get was -3.5 chamber in the rear and wore out a pair of new T1-R in less than 8k miles. Then I had Thom's rear camber kit installed and re-aligned to -2.0 and its mucho better after 20k miles.
 
liftnot said:
my car is slammed as well and the least i can get was -3.5 chamber in the rear and wore out a pair of new T1-R in less than 8k miles. Then I had Thom's rear camber kit installed and re-aligned to -2.0 and its mucho better after 20k miles.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip - where can I buy this Thom's kit????


My problem is that unless I go back to NEARLY stock ride height, even non-dumped according to my specialist will result in close to 3.5 degrees of negative camber. I'm definitely not going to raise to car to 4x4 status but I AGREE 4 degrees is a bit much. I want a camber correction kit if possible so please help!

I'm sure many of you gus who are just "lowered" should be around 3.5 degrees too?


rick
 
s4play said:
Not bad, 2 kits available at $355 for the kit

THERE ARE TWO KITS
ONE FOR <1" LOWERED
ONE FOR >1" LOWERED

Probably pick up the >1" kit for my car let me show this to my alignment specialist.


rick
Click to expand...
With my drop and the aggressive (>1") kit, I could go all the way back to 0 degrees if I desired. I'm planning on going back to 1.5 or so.
 
Thom's kit rocks:biggrin: no noise, no side effect, beef design, no raise in temp. after long drive, -2.5 camber is plenty for drive in anger. A very well designed/made part. A must have for slammed NSX. Or own a lot of stocks of your favorite tire comp.
 
I just got my car aligned yesterday and here are the specs:

Front Left:
Camber: -0.9
Caster: 7.9
Toe: -0.15

Front Right:
Camber: -0.6
Caster: 8.1
Toe: -0.14

Rear Left:
Camber: -3.4
Toe: 0.16

Rear Right:
Camber: -3.5
Toe: 0.17

I'm running 18/19 GTV's with BFGoodridge GForce KDW's on TEIN RE suspension not too slammed.

Do these numbers look accurate for an NSX that isn't too slammed? The rear left camber was at -2.3 degrees before, but since the rear right was maxed out at -3.5, they had to make the left more negative to even out both sides.
 
You guys should post your wheel/tire specs and approximate amount of drop as well. It would give others a better idea of what is needed to make certain wheels fit.
 
NA1VTEC said:
I just got my car aligned yesterday and here are the specs:

Front Left:
Camber: -0.9
Caster: 7.9
Toe: -0.15

Front Right:
Camber: -0.6
Caster: 8.1
Toe: -0.14

Rear Left:
Camber: -3.4
Toe: 0.16

Rear Right:
Camber: -3.5
Toe: 0.17

I'm running 18/19 GTV's with BFGoodridge GForce KDW's on TEIN RE suspension not too slammed.

Do these numbers look accurate for an NSX that isn't too slammed? The rear left camber was at -2.3 degrees before, but since the rear right was maxed out at -3.5, they had to make the left more negative to even out both sides.
Click to expand...
Those numbers looked very similar to mine before I got Thom's Agro rear camber kit. Now I'm seeing -1.2 on both sides in the rear, and could go all the way out to 0 degrees if I was so inclined.
 
My car is slammed, and therefore requires a more negative camber (track application)--> -3.5 front, -3.2 rear

This will allow me to run a 225-235 up front & 285 rear without rubbing with custom order camber kit via CT Engineering.
 
Last edited:
From what I've seen, a drop of more than 1" will result in at least -2.5 rear camber. At 1.5" lowered, you are usually heading into -3.0 or more rear camber. My car is lowered 7/8" and I have -2.0 camber in the rear.

Raising the car up should allow it to get back into OEM spec, even w/ aftermarket wheels. If that doesn't help, align it w/ stock wheels at stock height. If at stock height and w/ stock wheels, you can't get it into OEM spec, there may be a suspension component issue.
 
Thanks for the info guys, I was just curious to know how negative the rear camber is supposed to be with a moderate drop. I don't know how much of a drop I have due to the fact that I bought the car dropped with Eibach springs and never saw it at stock height.

I just hope my tires won't wear out too quickly at -3.5 degrees with stock toe settings.
 
Last edited:
NA1VTEC said:
Thanks for the info guys, I was just curious to know how negative the rear camber is supposed to be with a moderate drop. I don't know how much of a drop I have due to the fact that I bought the car dropped with Eibach springs and never saw it at stock height.

I just hope my tires won't wear out too quickly at -3.5 degrees with stock tow settings.
Click to expand...

I have Eibach and the rear camber is around -2.5 both side.
 
speaking of tire wear, i got 2 questions:

will toe's of 0 and camber of 0 maximize my tire life?

what has the biggest factor on tire wear: toe or camber?
 
i think my rears are like -2.4 after i had it realigned. It was -3.5 or something on the eibachs and to the above post, 0 all around will significantly leanthen the time of your tires but the handleing/cornering will suffer. I have the dunlop star tires on the car and can take turns like no other, much differnet than slidding around everywhere with the falcon 452's.
 
These are mine, just did the alignment yeaterday. I just copy them from the printout.

Front Left:
Camber: -0.3
Caster: 7.45
Toe: -0.04

Front Right:
Camber: -0.22
Caster: 7.06
Toe: -0.04

Rear Left:
Camber: -2.10
Toe: 0.23

Rear Right:
Camber: -1.56
Toe: 0.21

They got figures for front and rear cross figures. But honestly don't know what they mean! :redface:
 
thanks for posting up the info ~ this really helps and shows that on a dropped NSX, the rear camber most definitely will be in the 3.x degree range in stock form. Looks like the Thom's kit is the way to go if you want to avoid a lot of inner tire wear....

I have yet to buy the Thom's kit but will do so soon and report back!


rick
 
s4play said:
thanks for posting up the info ~ this really helps and shows that on a dropped NSX, the rear camber most definitely will be in the 3.x degree range in stock form. Looks like the Thom's kit is the way to go if you want to avoid a lot of inner tire wear....

I have yet to buy the Thom's kit but will do so soon and report back!


rick
Click to expand...

Yeah, with my setup my last set of rear tire had lots of inner tire wear. And Thom's kit would be the way to go.
 
No matter what the spec is on an NSX in the front i always set to the low side for the toe. Most alignment machines have a "green zone" with a MIN and MAX and most mechanics get lazy. Most of the alignments shown are good from side to side however my main concern is the first two printouts showing the toe...

If someone here is willing i would have it aligned closer to -.01 to -.03 like ISR posted. Thats seems right to me and for an NSX for pure handling.(front specs)

To answer the one post of tire wear:

Tire wear is mostly seen with TOE. NOT camber like most assume. IF you have camber the same from side to side and your toe set at 0.00 or the MIN you should have great tire life. If your toe is out but camber is good you will get tire wear, if you camber is out and toe.............your f-d. If you get your car aligned with old tires, and your steering wheel is straight and it still pulls to one side, swap your front two tires around. Normally problem solved.

hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
I just had my KW's installed today so I wanted to share my specs. I had corner balance done first.


Front Left:
Camber: -1.09
Caster: 7.59
Toe: -0.12

Front Right:
Camber: -1.0
Caster: 7.88
Toe: -0.12

Rear Left:
Camber: -2.30
Toe: 0.14

Rear Right:
Camber: -2.10
Toe: 0.15
 
Alignment Advice (formerly:Guys who are DROPPED - list your Alignment specs here....

I am taking my lowered (approx 1 ") '99 supercharged in to have left front tie rod replaced, new tires on the front and most importantly an alignment.

I had the car at the track a few weeks ago. The left front inner got quite worn but i suspect the loose tie rod end.

The rears are wearing evenly but very quickly (50 %; 1 track day + 2500 highway miles)

So i see many resulting readings after alignment in this thread but what should i tell the shop as far as settings or direction? They are not very performance oriented but have one of the few machines that i can drive the car onto the machine due to lowering.

I would say that i am an occasional track driver who does some aggressive driving but does want to get more than 4000 miles out of tires.
 

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