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High-lift camshafts on a NA2 NSX make sense

MvM

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Joined
12 February 2002
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Rotterdam, Netherlands
Was just wondering.

ScienceofSpeed sells aftermarket camshafts with higher VTEC-lift and duration.

Can these be used on a NA2 NSX as well (C32B - 3.2 liter - OBD-II)?
 
Ahh... what I like about Toda is that when you click on any of their products,you get:


Parse error: syntax error, unexpected ';' in /home/todaraci/public_html/category.php on line 405​

It really anoys me when "reputable" companies have s*** websites or software.
 
Ahh... what I like about Toda is that when you click on any of their products,you get:


Parse error: syntax error, unexpected ';' in /home/todaraci/public_html/category.php on line 405​

It really anoys me when "reputable" companies have s*** websites or software.

Dosent do that to me. :confused:
 
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If you are staying NA and don't do the stroker, larger cams are probably the best way to boost power after headers and exhaust. Greenberet has the big cams on his NA1 (Comptech I think) and he can hit 300 km/h in his NSX. IIRC, Comptech determined that there was not much room for improvement left over the OEM profile, but there was enough for a 20-30 whp bump.

You will see a significant improvement on your NA2 with cams, but to get the most out of it, you should get adjustible cam gears and a re-flashed chip or standalone EMS like the AEM. All of this is probably good for ~50 whp. I'm sure Autowave or SOS can confirm.

Edit- of all the power adders, this mod is probably the safest and most reliable. But, it is the least hp per $.
 
50 WHP?! maybe only on that autowave dyno.
 
The high-lift cams are not very sharp. If your head-gasket is blown then it would make motr sense costwise as the engine is out and dismounted partly.
Grinding the head down to raise the compression (adjustable cam gears needed), grind the inlet ports smootly, tune it with AEM or the like and maybe - if you're lucky - you'll find 50 engine hp in the higher range. For titanium retainers, see thread on prime. But even then: why not do it right and raise the displacement of the engine? Even more money.

If the engine is still healthy maybe FI is a more effective way to go.
 
how much power did you make?

270-280whp depended on the dyno. Just had a local build with Toda cams sleeved the whole ball of wax and it only netted 292whp. I since sold my old motor and bought a bone stock low mileage engine and installed LoveFab headers and the car feels the same as my old motor with all those mods. I need to get to a dyno to see what it's putting down. IMO save your $$$ and put it towards a SC or Turbo and see real gains. I plan on getting Lovefabed early next year.
 
270-280whp depended on the dyno. Just had a local build with Toda cams sleeved the whole ball of wax and it only netted 292whp. I since sold my old motor and bought a bone stock low mileage engine and installed LoveFab headers and the car feels the same as my old motor with all those mods. I need to get to a dyno to see what it's putting down. IMO save your $$$ and put it towards a SC or Turbo and see real gains. I plan on getting Lovefabed early next year.

Hi Steven,

So, if I understand you correctly, in retrospect and although you seemed to be very happy with the SOS Stage 3 at first, you would not do it again ??

Is the motor you bought now also a 3.0 NA1 or a 3.2?
I contacted SOS about their cams for the NA2, and Chris told me that with these cams I would get an additional 20 RWHP approximately.
 
Hi Steven,

So, if I understand you correctly, in retrospect and although you seemed to be very happy with the SOS Stage 3 at first, you would not do it again ??

Is the motor you bought now also a 3.0 NA1 or a 3.2?
I contacted SOS about their cams for the NA2, and Chris told me that with these cams I would get an additional 20 RWHP approximately.

Yes MvM, I was happy at first but would not do it again. First motor was 3.0 and my current motor is a 3.0. I think you spend a lot to get minimal gains. I still have not seen anyone Prime attain 300whp with these mods on a stock 3.0 unless they bore it out with larger pistons etc. I spent almost $6k in parts and labor to gain me roughly 20whp not worth it when for another $4k I would have 380whp with the LoveFab kit.
 
I still have not seen anyone Prime attain 300whp with these mods on a stock 3.0 unless they bore it out with larger pistons etc.

Hey, I got a dyno sheet that says my naturally aspirated 3.0 puts 408 horsepower to the wheels on pump gas. Unfortunately, I think that printout is so worthless that I could wipe my behind with it. In any case, the mods goldnsx mentioned above (except the adjustable cam gears - I still have to get those installed) push my car to 186 mph, however many horsepower that requires.
 
Greenberet don't you have a vid of you on the Auto Bahn hitting that number?
 
Sheesh, I ran 168mph on a highway and it scared the crap out of me. Car felt like it was floating and the windows felt like they were going to be sucked out.

I couldn't imagine doing 186! :eek:
 
Just had a local build with Toda cams sleeved the whole ball of wax and it only netted 292whp. QUOTE]

Hi Steven,

Could you enlighten us a bit about the Toda cam build.
292 WHP translates to about 332 engine HP which is not bad on a 3.0 NA1 engine I think.

GREENBERET said:
Hey, I got a dyno sheet that says my naturally aspirated 3.0 puts 408 horsepower to the wheels on pump gas. Unfortunately, I think that printout is so worthless that I could wipe my behind with it. In any case, the mods goldnsx mentioned above (except the adjustable cam gears - I still have to get those installed) push my car to 186 mph, however many horsepower that requires.

Hi Andreas,

Perhaps it is time for you to have your car dynoed in a proper way so that we can all KNOW just how much HP is needed to breach that 300 kph barrier :smile:

PONYBOY said:
Sheesh, I ran 168mph on a highway and it scared the crap out of me. Car felt like it was floating and the windows felt like they were going to be sucked out.

I have done 168mph numerous times and the car actually felt pretty solid.
Perhaps it is time to get you aerodynamics in order :biggrin:
 
Hi Andreas,

Perhaps it is time for you to have your car dynoed in a proper way so that we can all KNOW just how much HP is needed to breach that 300 kph barrier :smile:
Maarten,
please remind that Andreas did more things than just changing the cams but I forgot the full list of his mods. :wink: And like someone mentioned already it's a lot of $$$$ playing with internals of the engine.
 
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Maarten he went with larger pistons and had it sleeved so it was more like a 3.3 liter. The Toda cams alone were just shy of $4k US.
 
I have done 168mph numerous times and the car actually felt pretty solid.

Perhaps it is time to get you aerodynamics in order :biggrin:

Too chicken to try anymore. ;) The 120mph I do on the straight at the local track and the 145mph I've done at Mid-Ohio is good enough for me.
 
Just had a local build with Toda cams sleeved the whole ball of wax and it only netted 292whp.

Did he do any performance measurements after the modifications such checking the ¼ mile trap speed? Did he do a before/after run on the same dyno to measure the difference the mods made or better yet take an unmodified car along as a control during both the before and after measurements?

Personally, I've pretty much lost faith in the absolute numbers dynos generate. 408 rear wheel horsepower is what the dyno said my car puts down when my engine management chip was programmed. 270 rear wheel horsepower is what another dyno said when I measured the fuel pressure at full throttle and maximum revs. 238 rear wheel horsepower is what the Dynolicious app on my iPhone said my NSX has. My car was in the same state of tune for all of those measurements. So much for rear wheel horsepower measurements on different dynos.

Amazingly, driveline loss measurements seem to vary even more. The dyno that measured 270 rwhp for my NSX also measured the driveline loss as 10.4% at 216.0 km/h. Another dyno measured the driveline loss in Procar Special’s NSX as 24.0% at 218.3 km/h.

Combining the wildly varying rear wheel horsepower figures with inaccurate driveline loss measurements, I can come up with anything between 265 and 537 crank horsepower. Or I could just use those dyno printouts as toilet paper.

Dynos are great for comparing various runs on the same day and as a tool when programming an engine management chip. But as an absolute measure of power, I think they’re of little value if you don’t have a comparison vehicle along to provide you a reference value. It’s too bad that almost no dynos are regularly calibrated to ensure the numbers they spit out are actually accurate.
 
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