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how to position the jack stands

6 June 2004
Los Angeles
Have a set of regular jack stands that have a deep U shape top that is too wide and deep for the factory jack points. What is the proper way to position the jack stands safely? Thanks.
There are products that make the top of the jack stand flat with a thick rubber piece. I have slightly notched the top of my jackstands perpendicular to the U shape so the thin jack points can sit in the newly made slit. Im willing to bet Amazon has the jackstand toppers. There is also the option of "quickjack" systems which is a flat hydraulic jack/jack stand system that spans the length of the door enough to safely make contact with both jacking spots safely but they are about $1000 for the cheapest one.
Not answering your question directly, sorry.
I have ESCO ESC10498, these seemed suited for the car when I bought them (~ $65 each at the time).
~ 13.5" at the lowest setting and over 21" at the high setting.
I work alone and I have not been overly concerned being under the car, though
I pay attention which direction I am pushing or pulling none the less.
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I have these stands too and they are great - highly recommended. I also have an AC hydraulic jack which uses the same rubber saddle as the stands - also highly recommended.
Search "jack stand pad" on Amazon to get a nice selection of options depending on the width of your stand tops. Note that many of them are made for steel pinch welds, not the ~1/4" welded-on bar of the NSX, so have a fairly deep groove. If you're buying stands, lots of folks like Albert86 recommend ones with a flat top, but most stands have a groove to hold pinch welds and truck axles more securely.

I've seen several NSX's jacked with flat tops or deep groove pads, or no pads, and the adjacent aluminum on the frame seems to hold up OK supporting either way - it just gets scratched if pads aren't used. Looking at a cross-sectional cutaway that I saw of that area of the NSX, it's basically a beam section with multiple internal reinforcements, so the tabs may be more of a locater than a critical structural member.

Further, if you look at the way the factory jack mates to the jack points, you'll see it has a groove as well, so the jacking force is actually applied to the flat areas beside the welded-on jack point bars. The beam looks to be extrusion molded so would be way stronger than the welded-on bar, which seems to be designed more for lateral loads in case the ground under the jack is slightly off level. Thus it appears that supporting the bars or the lateral area adjacent to them both work. The rubber pads work well to prevent scratching.

BTW, if you use a pad at the top, be sure that it comes off when you remove the stand or jack. They can tend to stick and then drop off later while driving, never to be found. Don't ask me how I know this.
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I have a set (4) of the ESCO stands - they are great. I like them more than the ones with the U shaped top (I have those as well). I also have a QuickJack - highly recommended if you do a lot of work on your NSX. Almost as much effort to setup under the car as a set of jack stands but once it is up it is stable and secure.