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I have Drew's abs bleeder tool
- Thread starter Cal
- Start date
when you 'open' the bleeder nipple with the 'T-bleeder tool' you activate the abs pump (other thread explains) for up to 30 seconds, but no more. Do this multiple times (3 or 4 should be good) or until old fluid is all removed and replaced by new fluid. Top off the fluid and go driving. Mine still made 'the noise' once I started moving forward (won't do it at idle), so I locked the brakes up a few times and all was well = the noise went away / my fluid reservoir is still full / the ABS light is off / and I have a smile on my face.
*** As pointed out by vsy05 below - you should open and close the bleeder nipple AND THEN use the button to activate the pump which repressurizes the system. I did this wrong ... but it didn't hurt anything. Once I drove the car, the pump activated, making 'the noise' and pressurized the system. I then topped off the fluid and all was great.
Last edited:
THANKS,
So right when I open the nipple I activate the abs pump for 20 sec or so. Ok I got that part. Now I need to know, Do I activate the pump only in the fuse box cover or do I have to pull each of the 4 clips and do them one at a time?
in the fuse box where the ALB/ABS fuses are - leave them 'in', but pull out the motor relay
see it (motor relay) here between pictures 1 & 2: http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm
just follow steps 3 and 4 (on the guide link) to connect to the bottom 2 clips (not ALL 4)
see it (motor relay) here between pictures 1 & 2: http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm
just follow steps 3 and 4 (on the guide link) to connect to the bottom 2 clips (not ALL 4)
I did mine a bit different from you.
From the instructions, I thought it said to "close" the bleeder nipple, then activate the abs pump.
"7. Lightly close the bleed screw (4 lb-ft) and close the Motor Relay Switch until the fluid is sucked out the the reservoir but don't run the motor more than 30 seconds."
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I thought that is what the instructions said to do.
Here is another link that also explains how to use the tool:
http://web.archive.org/web/20030330051854/www.nsxsc.com/ubb/Forum17/HTML/000036.html
I hope it helps to clarify any confusion you might have.
It's actually very simple to do.
http://web.archive.org/web/20030330051854/www.nsxsc.com/ubb/Forum17/HTML/000036.html
I hope it helps to clarify any confusion you might have.
It's actually very simple to do.
I have been experiencing that clatter that come from the ABS. Except mine continues even as Im driving. Everyone on this thread seems to really know what's going on. Can someone tell me which fuse I can pull so that clattering will stop....and if pulling this fuse....will it affect anything else? I was told I will still have brakes....just no ABS. I was also told it will cost $3,800 to $4,000 to replace the ABS....and that won't be happening for a real long time.
Looking for good advise....thanks!!!
Tony
Looking for good advise....thanks!!!
Tony
It should only make the noise when you move. It is trying to pressurize the system (the noise you hear). Get on the list to use this tool and it will likely solve your issue.
BTW - if you want to pull the ALB/ABS (ALB = anti-lock brake) fuses, so othis link and check the pics: http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm
BTW2 - that price quote is way high.
No worries - get this tool!
Blaine,
I really appreciate you responding so quickly and for the information. In your opinion....what should I be looking at in price for the replacement of the ABS system?
Thanks again!!!
Tony
Tony, I really don't think you'll need to replace it, as the noise will often stop after your replace the brake fluid and 'work the system' (work = hard stop using the ABS a few times).
That being stated, I've seen other recent posts with ABS replacement estimates between $1,200 - $1,600.
I look forward to seeing your future post that you used the 'T-tool' and have a properly functioning ALB/ABS system!
Again....thanks for all this valuable information. I will definetly let you know how it goes once I get the T-tool. Last and final question....according to the link there are 3 fuses, ABS Pump Fuse, Motor Relay, and the ALB Fuses. Do I have to remove all these fuses to stop the clattering or just one or two of them?
Thanks,
Tony
I was able to open the bleeder with a deep 9" socket, used a hose into a old soda bottle, pulled the relay motor and just used a wire with 2 male end connectors and was able to bleed it that way, now no more noise. I didnt do the 2 clips thing. Does it really matter?
I'm not sure what you are refering to when you say the two clip thing. If you were able to use the two male connectors and you were able to activate the pump, then that's all you need to do. Make sure you do this serveral times.
Hi, not sure where the tool is now, but I would like to be added to the list. Please PM me.
Thanks,
William
OK. It's winter in Texas. Now is a great time to perfrom the work. PM me for my mailing address to send it to. By the way, what's the approximate ground shipping cost?
Shipping cost depends on the distance of the person you are sending the tool to. You only pay shipping to the next person.
There seems to be a little misconception in the thread here. I would just like to add a little of what I have learned in disecting our ABS system.
1. The T-Handle bleeder is not the end answer. It was designed to be used to determine if the accumulator had failed, by measuring the amount of fluid that is being stored under pressure in the system. If you look at Pg 19-62 in the maintenance manual. (If you don't have a copy of a manual you can down load it here on Prime, http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf and download a copy. IT IS INVALUABLE!!!!!!!!!!!
Now look at the picture (better than a 1000 words) as you can see the Maiantnenace Bleeder port is located at the pump. So pressurize the system, open the bleeder and the only fluid that you are getting out is between the accumulator and the bleed port. Remember brake fluid does not compress, air compresses. All of the fluid that is still in the modulator is still the old dirty, possibly aerated, fluid. If you haven't built a solenoid actuation kit as shown in the DIY that was produced by DanO (Thank-you again Dan) then you are not completely flushing your system and are bound to have problems with it again. This is not to say that if you do the DanO DIY method that you will never have a problem again.
I have taken what DanO has done and tried to add to it by not allowing the old dirty, aerated fluid from returinig into the pump. I believe that any air in the system is a major contributing factor to pump actuation.
Now, if you think that you have a bad accumulator you can still use the DanO method to determine the outcome. All you have to do is pressurize the system to full pressure and then activate a solenoid and measure the fluid that comes out of the solenoid. This can be done by accurately setting the fluid level in the reservoir with the car level, get the ABS pump to actuate(slick road: wet, sand etc.) and then return to the same level location, verify fluid level, and then acutate a solenoid until there is "Zero Pressure". As the fluid starts to fill the reservoir suck it out and put it into a measuring container. The wifes Pyrex measuring cups work great, or buy your own for the garage. You should get between 100 and 160cc of fluid. If you get less than that you have a bad accumulator. It will be quite evident if the accumulator is bad, you won't get much fluid at all.
The first step is to make sure that there is no air in the system. Otherwise your test may be eronious.
Remember that full operating pressure of this system is 5800 psi. The pump will actuate when the pressure drops to 2800 psi and then stops at 5800 psi. I have seen it go up to 6000 before it turns off. I think that is just the slow reaction from the signal from the pressure switch through the ABS computer, or just a slow pressure switch. If you have a seeping solenoid the pressure can bleed off rapidly or very slowly. Keep this in mind if you are trying to determine if you have a failed accumulator.
Brad
1. The T-Handle bleeder is not the end answer. It was designed to be used to determine if the accumulator had failed, by measuring the amount of fluid that is being stored under pressure in the system. If you look at Pg 19-62 in the maintenance manual. (If you don't have a copy of a manual you can down load it here on Prime, http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf and download a copy. IT IS INVALUABLE!!!!!!!!!!!
Now look at the picture (better than a 1000 words) as you can see the Maiantnenace Bleeder port is located at the pump. So pressurize the system, open the bleeder and the only fluid that you are getting out is between the accumulator and the bleed port. Remember brake fluid does not compress, air compresses. All of the fluid that is still in the modulator is still the old dirty, possibly aerated, fluid. If you haven't built a solenoid actuation kit as shown in the DIY that was produced by DanO (Thank-you again Dan) then you are not completely flushing your system and are bound to have problems with it again. This is not to say that if you do the DanO DIY method that you will never have a problem again.
I have taken what DanO has done and tried to add to it by not allowing the old dirty, aerated fluid from returinig into the pump. I believe that any air in the system is a major contributing factor to pump actuation.
Now, if you think that you have a bad accumulator you can still use the DanO method to determine the outcome. All you have to do is pressurize the system to full pressure and then activate a solenoid and measure the fluid that comes out of the solenoid. This can be done by accurately setting the fluid level in the reservoir with the car level, get the ABS pump to actuate(slick road: wet, sand etc.) and then return to the same level location, verify fluid level, and then acutate a solenoid until there is "Zero Pressure". As the fluid starts to fill the reservoir suck it out and put it into a measuring container. The wifes Pyrex measuring cups work great, or buy your own for the garage. You should get between 100 and 160cc of fluid. If you get less than that you have a bad accumulator. It will be quite evident if the accumulator is bad, you won't get much fluid at all.
The first step is to make sure that there is no air in the system. Otherwise your test may be eronious.
Remember that full operating pressure of this system is 5800 psi. The pump will actuate when the pressure drops to 2800 psi and then stops at 5800 psi. I have seen it go up to 6000 before it turns off. I think that is just the slow reaction from the signal from the pressure switch through the ABS computer, or just a slow pressure switch. If you have a seeping solenoid the pressure can bleed off rapidly or very slowly. Keep this in mind if you are trying to determine if you have a failed accumulator.
Brad
Hi, I'm not sure who has the tool now. I want to be added to the list. Please PM me for address. Thanx!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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Please add me to the list after NSX Pilot
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