• ***Text Box Error UPDATE*** Folks- we were able to fix the underlying issue with the missing text box on the forum. Everything should be back to normal. - Honcho
  • ***AVOID MARKETPLACE SCAMS!!***

    Scammers are using compromised Prime member accounts to pose as a trusted seller in the marketplace. Before you enter into a deal with any seller, follow these tips to keep yourself safe. If you encounter one of these scammers, please report them immediately and we will lock their account.

    Caveat Emptor!

Info on Koyo radiators?

I have a koyo since my oem one developed a crack. I don't track my car. It works as good as the oem one since I can't notice a change.

Do yourself a favor and install Rad shields as well while you're at it. Don't want to damage a perfect radiator...

http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=49

There's also another person who sells them as well if you don't want to order from Dali. But I forget
 
I have had one now for about 3 years. Temps stay normal even under heavy loads. Fitment is real good too.
 
Do you know you temps on and off the track? It would be great to compare actual temps.

On the freeway it on and off the thermostat 165F/175F

On the track 190F. When you pull off the track and sit in the paddock temps will rise "lack of airflow".

In stop and go traffic temp will be higher due to lack of airflow. ~190F

I recently had the stock hood on the car. Noticed when I went back to the vented hood temps dropped 10F.
Above temps are with vented hood I not driven on the track with stock hood.
I have SPA digital gauges.


If I had it to do all over again I would buy it again.:smile:

Later,
Don
 
I have a koyo since my oem one developed a crack. I don't track my car. It works as good as the oem one since I can't notice a change.

Do yourself a favor and install Rad shields as well while you're at it. Don't want to damage a perfect radiator...

http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=49

There's also another person who sells them as well if you don't want to order from Dali. But I forget

Unless you're running on the track of in a cold climate with lots of rocks... I'd advise against the rad shield. I had it on with my supercharger and took it off (will sell it if you'd like ;) ).. The airflow restriction looks significant. It adds up. That's a lot of surface area..
 
Unless you're running on the track of in a cold climate with lots of rocks... I'd advise against the rad shield. I had it on with my supercharger and took it off (will sell it if you'd like ;) ).. The airflow restriction looks significant. It adds up. That's a lot of surface area..

Explain how it effected your setup because since I've had mine installed my temp gauge has been the same as an OEM radiator without the shield. I know many others have been running these without problems as well.

Also you mention on your "supercharger"? What's that supposed to mean. This shield shouldn't have anything to do with your supercharger setup or the temps.

I've run my car in 90 degree weather, not on the track but pretty hard and my temp gauge hasn't gone north of 210. However my AIT's, that's another story.
 
Explain how it effected your setup because since I've had mine installed my temp gauge has been the same as an OEM radiator without the shield. I know many others have been running these without problems as well.

Also you mention on your "supercharger"? What's that supposed to mean. This shield shouldn't have anything to do with your supercharger setup or the temps.

I've run my car in 90 degree weather, not on the track but pretty hard and my temp gauge hasn't gone north of 210. However my AIT's, that's another story.

Stock temperature gauge is Crap. You can't tell if the shields are making a difference with stock gauge. You need a digital gauge or something equivalent.

A car making more power than stock will also produce more heat.
That is why there was a comment about being supercharged.

Street is nothing compared to the track for bringing up temps.
On the track you are ether WOT or Hard on the breaks. "Assuming you are experenced"
You do this for 20-25 min straight.
 
Stock temperature gauge is Crap. You can't tell if the shields are making a difference with stock gauge. You need a digital gauge or something equivalent.

A car making more power than stock will also produce more heat.
That is why there was a comment about being supercharged.

Street is nothing compared to the track for bringing up temps.
On the track you are ether WOT or Hard on the breaks. "Assuming you are experenced"
You do this for 20-25 min straight.

Thanks, I have a digital aem gauge I stare at because I like the lights.

I'm aware of more heat with FI but I'm going to disagree with it raising temps that much. Considering that there's only about 3 aftermarket inner coolers and only 1 the dual pass DA one that keeps things running cooler. The rest like the miszo or whatever and koyo are the same size. I highly doubt every FI car is running a DA inner cooler that tracks. Given that some people push 600whp any of these and don't have cooling problems makes me believe that the Nsx cooling system is well designed and that adding a radiator shields not going to be a huge deal. If I ever track my car and my temps rise next session I'll just slide it out before the event and back in afterwards.

Maybe I'll retract my statement and say for the 75% of Nsx owners that don't track this is good assurance. But I won't until I track my car with it on.
 
Last edited:
NSXNUT is on the money - but read his post carefully regarding the variables he mentions.

You are correct, for 75% this is fine if you do not track at ambient temps above 85F and especially do not have a CTSC. A 600 rwhp will not overheat the system in street driving even if occasionally you test its power - but take it to the track with an OEM radiator and within the third lap I assure you the needle will be close to red if you are on it. I too had a radiator shield and it worked well for street driving but had to remove it at the track due to overheating (many of us have had this issue and amply discussed in other threads) and this before installing CTSC.

Add to this the age of a radiator and the climatic conditions it has operated in - as in dusty, insect infested freeways ....... then the 25% of street driven owners kick in.

So, like in many such posts, the key in appreciating responses is in defining and delineating the rest of the parameters/variables.
 
NSXNUT is on the money - but read his post carefully regarding the variables he mentions.

You are correct, for 75% this is fine if you do not track at ambient temps above 85F and especially do not have a CTSC. A 600 rwhp will not overheat the system in street driving even if occasionally you test its power - but take it to the track with an OEM radiator and within the third lap I assure you the needle will be close to red if you are on it. I too had a radiator shield and it worked well for street driving but had to remove it at the track due to overheating (many of us have had this issue and amply discussed in other threads) and this before installing CTSC.

Add to this the age of a radiator and the climatic conditions it has operated in - as in dusty, insect infested freeways ....... then the 25% of street driven owners kick in.

So, like in many such posts, the key in appreciating responses is in defining and delineating the rest of the parameters/variables.

Gotcha, well I'd still buy one and slide it out if you track then. It's cheap, and if you've hit animals like me it's worth it. Just encase they don't go under.
 
SOS recommends them highly... Contact them.
 
My intercooler acts as a radiator sheild. :smile:
I think i'm leaning towards the Driving ambition radiator.
I run 9psi and it sounds i will need it to keep temps cool on the track.
 
Back
Top