So, in the world of window regulator fixing, the fragrance or urea grease is a triviality. I reserve a special place in my heart for that rope caulk / goo that Honda used to seal the plastic membrane on the door panel. After 17 years I swear that it was as fresh, stringy and gooey as the day it went on. Pulling the membrane off resulted in strings like hot mozzarella cheese on a pizza which ultimately ended up on every surface in sight.
The Hugo kit install went pretty well, other than a little fuss initially with trying to rewind the spring in the regulator. Operation of the windows is not fast; but, definitely faster and smoother than before. Initially I had some popping sounds when the window was approaching full open. A little exploration revealed that this is caused by the white plastic pivot that rides on the slide on the regulator track and is part of the bracket that is bolted to the bottom of the glass. I discovered that you are supposed to lubricate this pivot with the all important urea grease to prevent this popping noise. You are also supposed to lubricate the white plastic bits where this bracket bolts to the bottom of the glass with the same urea grease. This last bit mystifies me since there is no apparent movement at this point; but, the lubrication of the pivot and the bracket mounting points are covered by a TSB (93-004 I think) which is in the Prime Wiki. This info on lubricating the bracket and the pivot was not included in Hugo's installation instructions, so for those of you who have yet to install the Hugo kit, get the grease and check out the TSB. As it turns out, after operating the windows a few times, the popping has ceased; however, I will have the door panels off in the future because of other reasons so I will do the lubrication of the pivot then.
This isn't related to Hugo's kit; but, the journey into the doors revealed that someone had been in there before, at least on two occasions. The first tell tale was the fact that the plastic mounting tabs along the back of the door and along the bottom were either split or completely missing and the portion of the door panel bolster above the top mounting tab on the back side had completely split apart on the passengers side - which explained a mystery rattle that I was never able to trace down. The second clue was big chunks ripped out of the door membrane which were subsequently taped over with lots of large pieces of duct tape. I guess whoever went into the door didn't want to deal with the gooey stuff being exposed by pealing back the membrane so they just ripped holes in the membrane. Pealing off the duct tape and pulling the membrane back revealed the following interesting stuff:
On the passenger side wires that look like home stereo speaker cord which appear to have at one time been attached to the window regulator motor
What looks like a 0.47 UF capacitor soldered across the power supply to the window regulator motor on the passenger side
On the driver's side, evidence of fiddling on the connector plugs. Not sure why they would have to have three butt splices in a row.
The drivers door also had loose wires T tapped to wires on the connector plug to the drivers side window switch, the door latch connector plug and the door courtesy light. I could see that the door latch and courtesy light connection might be part of a security system; but, the connections to the window switch and regulator motors and the capacitor across the passenger regulator motor are complete mysteries to me, plus it looked like a real hack job install. Has anybody seen anything like this?
As noted, I will be pulling the door liner off to deal with the broken / missing mounting tabs. Fortunately, the tabs are on separate bolsters along the bottom and back of the door panel which are screwed to the door panel, so you can deal with broken tabs by replacing the bolsters as opposed to replacing the complete door panel which would be $$$$.