Need advise changing oil cooler hoses

Edresh · 23 July 2008

I have deciede to change all the coolant hoses on my 91 after having one in the engine bay burst at 3:30pm on 35E just north of Dallas on 7-3-08 $148.00
tow, waited 2.5 hours and spent $245.00 at the dealer to replace two hoses in the engine bay. I hate to spend $$$ like that.
Anyway enough of the whining, I have started at the front and things seem to be straight forward, I am a bit freaked out about changing the oil cooler hoses, That seems like it is going to test my tolorance level. I checked with Goodsen the area dealer and they quote $300 -$400 which is an option but a bitter pill to swallow. Has any one tried this job, are there tricks to it etc, I can't find a clear description on how to do the job when I search the forums
Any advise sure would be helpful.

Ed:

Chris NSX · 23 July 2008

I use this tool, it makes it a little better.

ftuhy · 23 July 2008

I have not found the need to change any coolant hoses on my '96 yet (51k mi), but I did do the timing belt myself last year. From that experience and relying somewhat on my "write-only-memory", it would seem that dropping the oil cooler adapter at the oil filter would make replacing those hoses a lot easier. Its a quick and easy task, but you'll need to buy a new "figure 8" o-ring (about $8 if I remember right.), and some oil will drool on you.

For anyone who has replaced those hoses, does my suggestion make sense?

Frank
'96 NSX-T, red/tan

Edresh · 23 July 2008

Yes that tool is fantastic, I picked one up prior to starting, As far as droping the oil cooler I am waiting for my shop manual to arrive any day now so I drop the cooler and not the engine, is there a place on line that goes thru the proceedure?

Daedalus · 24 July 2008

It's an annoying job, but not a big job. I had the filter base unbolted and used a couple straight and bent long-nosed pliers to get the clamps off. Easy once I got the prongs oriented right. I got the hoses off by forcing a utility blade up in there and cutting them off with a few tries. Getting the new hoses on took some effort too. I stretched the hose ends a bit with the pliers beforehand and used silicone lube. Seemed to help a lot.

Larry Bastanza · 24 July 2008

Well, "Quick and Easy" would not be my choice of words for this job

.

The job is a PITA. The one trick I can give you is to remove the heat shield from the CV inboard joint. It will make access to the smaller hose easier but not easy. When you cut the hoses always use a NEW blade and ONLY cut the hose. Do not score the pipe the hose slips onto(this is more important when the hose is on an aliminum pipe, like the bigger hoses).

The idea of stretching the hoses first is really good to help get them on. I also use plenty of silicone O-ring grease on the inside of the hoses to get them to slip on easier. Silicone spray works just as well.

BTW, the tool above is a great tool, I use it all the time on the hose replacement service, but it is useless for these two hoses.

Yes, you must remove the oil cooler pedestal and get a new "8" gasket. I do one hose at a time, so the oil cooler is not dangling by the oil pressure sensor wire.

HTH,
LarryB

tosugrad · 24 July 2008

In the upper midwest I think the labor to do ALL the hoses is like $800. Seems WELL worth it to me :biggrin:

NSXkkk · 25 July 2008

question: when u said all the hoses, it means coolant hoses+oil cooler hoses??? what are they included???

how do i know if they need to be replaced? i am still newbie, need to know more.

Edresh · 25 July 2008

All the hoses associated with the coolant, 23, 25 with (atf) if you include the expansion tank overflow hose. Go to

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray...&catcgry4=LM&catcgry5=&search=All&ListAll=All

look up Radiator Hose, Oil Cooler Hose and Water Valve all will be shown. I decided to change mine as a precautionary step.

nis350 · 12 January 2009

Larry Bastanza said:
Yes, you must remove the oil cooler pedestal and get a new "8" gasket. I do one hose at a time, so the oil cooler is not dangling by the oil pressure sensor wire.

HTH,
LarryB

lLarry,

Is it correct to assume that the oil filter will need to be removed? Is the '8' gasket only thing needed?

Thanks...

Larry Bastanza · 15 January 2009

nis350 said:
lLarry,

Is it correct to assume that the oil filter will need to be removed? Is the '8' gasket only thing needed?

Thanks...

You can actually leave the filter in place. You will need to use HondaBond on the top two bolt threads when you reassemble the pedastal onto the engine.

Regards,
LarryB

DeVinci13 · 1 May 2011

Ok, I have bought the hose kit from Dali and I have the service manual and printed out all the locations of the hoses.

I am assuming I need to replace #19 (O-Ring, oil filter case, 91318-PH7-003(4)) and I need to use HondaBond on the bolt threads of #16 (Bolt, flange (8x65) x2 upper). Larry B says only the top 2 bolts, but what about #26 (Bolt, flange (8x120) x1 lower)?

swimmingpie · 1 May 2011

I replaced all my coolant hoses a few weeks ago and these two were the hardest. Probably took over two hours. It appears to be impossible without removing the oil cooler from the engine block. I agree with all the above advise. I had to stretch the hoses quite a bit. I did not have to stretch any of the other hoses on the car. I just sprayed them with some silicone/teflon lubricant and slid them on. These are much tighter. You will need to stretch them a lot before and put a lot more force to get these on. A set of needle-nose vice grips is great for holding the hose clamps open.

Good luck!

Larry Bastanza · 1 May 2011

DeVinci13 said:
Ok, I have bought the hose kit from Dali and I have the service manual and printed out all the locations of the hoses.

I am assuming I need to replace #19 (O-Ring, oil filter case, 91318-PH7-003(4)) and I need to use HondaBond on the bolt threads of #16 (Bolt, flange (8x65) x2 upper). Larry B says only the top 2 bolts, but what about #26 (Bolt, flange (8x120) x1 lower)?

#26 does not access the internals of the engine in any way, so there is no need the Hondabond that bolt, only the top two

.

Regards,
LarryB

DeVinci13 · 1 May 2011

Ok, another question for Larry.

In the Service Manual, on pages 8-3 and 8-10 it labels those bolts as special bolts that are required to be torqued to 16 lb-ft, but it makes no mention of HondaBond. But it does say to replace both of the bolts.

Do I replace the bolts? Do I reuse the bolts but use HondaBond on them? Do I need to use a liquid gasket between the oil cooler/filter base and the oil pump?

Larry Bastanza · 1 May 2011

If you were to purchase those you would see that there is a sealant on the first 10mm or so of the threads. To reuse the original bolts, coat them with Hondabond HT and the Hondabond will be the new sealant.

No point in throwing away perfectly good bolts

.

Regards,
LarryB

TANTO · 20 August 2012

Chris NSX said:
I use this tool, it makes it a little better.

I give up, but summarily intrigued, what is it and if i need one where do i get it. ITA

sers · 25 August 2012

I changed all my hoses this year and used Larry's advice in tackling the oil cooler hoses. It took a while, but was very doable and i consider myself a novice. Thanks Larry!!:biggrin:

Removing the CV boot shield is a must, in my opinion (this in fact was the hardest part for me as I found one of the bolts was quite difficult to get to). I used long needle nosed pliers to get at the clamps and a very sharp blade to cut the hoses. I left the filter in place when I removed the housing. Just make sure you stretch the mouth of the new hoses and use lots of water based lube when reapllying the hoses. Really, it wasn't too bad.

I posted several pics of my hose replacement job. Do a search using my name and you'll see.

Need advise changing oil cooler hoses

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