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New Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement $589.74?

Tai

Experienced Member
Joined
3 June 2006
Messages
395
Location
Sausalito
Hello Dear Primer's,

I just got back from the dealership (Marin, California) and it appears my Clutch Master Cylinder is leaking fluid and causing my rubber clutch pedal cover to slip off every three days or so. They quoted me for $589.74+tax to replace it.:cool: The part is $160 itself. I wasn't too pleased with the news.

I read some threads and found some fellow Primer's were quoted $400 at their local dealerships in other states. Should I try elsewhere to get this done or should I try to bargain between dealerships?

Please give any advice or suggestions on what I should do to try and get it replaced at a decent price. As it seems the work is quite tedious and time consuming for a DIY job, but any suggestions are welcome.

Thank you,

Tai
 
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I wasn't too pleased with the news.

How else are people in California supposed to pay for their $1,800,000 tract house? I'm being serious: a basic home in South Central is going for $450K and a very basic house in a reasonably priced area near/around Los Angeles is now $1,000,000.

Anyways: something has to give. And I suppose it might as well be your wallet.

***

Changing out the clutch master is a two hour job and it is easy. There isn't much to it, most of the work is putting the car on stands.

There are several DIY's if you search the forums.

Drew
 
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I replaced the master cylinder myself in about two
hours, following these instructions (although I didn't
take out the driver's seat while doing it).
I'd never done the job before; I would expect
a shop to do it in less time than I did.

Are you too far away from a good independent shop,
e.g. Don at Hilltop Auto in Daly City?

Also... a lot of mechanics recommend replacing
master and slave cylinders when either goes bad;
see this thread for more info. $589 sounds like an
OK quote for both, but too much for just the master.
When I replaced them myself, I paid $200 for the
parts (master + slave cylinders) from Niello.
 
I just got my car back yesterday. I had the clutch master and slave cylinders replaced. The slave is what broke on my car, however I had them do both so I wouldn't have to worry about it anymore.

I think the parts were around $100/each and then $400 in labor, my total ended up being $684 for both with taxes and random charges. This seemed a little steep to me :/ I have heard of people getting both done for $450, however $589 seems very high for just the master.

If you are mechanically inclined you can probably do this yourself in four hours. The only reason I didn't do this is because I am daily driving my car right now and didn't have time to mess around.

Check acuraoemparts.com for prices, I think they are typically 15% off MSRP. You can often times get the local parts department to match their prices, either way they are marking yours up 50% over MSRP?
 
Thanks for the info gentlemen,

The fluid has been leaking less which means that I probably won't want to fix it until I'm stranded on the side of the freeway... But at least the clutch pedal isn't slipping off!

Thanks D'Ecosse for the parts referral, I will definitely go with Delray Acura or bargain with Marin Acura who obviously assumes I've got as much money as everyone else here and help them pay for their $1.8 Million Dollar track homes.

I will have to negotiate with the Dealership and if they won't adjust their prices I might try it out myself. I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks:smile:

Tai
 
Tai said:
I will have to negotiate with the Dealership and if they won't adjust their prices I might try it out myself. I will let you know how it goes.
If you do it yourself, I suggest replacing the bleed screw
with a Speedbleeder (the right size for the NSX clutch
is their model SB8125L). Speedbleeder offers a discount
to NSXCA members.

The Speedbleeder makes it a one-person job (but don't
let the level in the reservoir go down all the way while
bleeding; you can only do a few pedal depressions at
a time in between refills of the reservoir).
 
Dear fellow Primers,

I decided after all to get my clutch master cylinder replaced by my local mechanic whom I've known for 10+ years. Quoted at $390 out the door parts and labor, it seemed worth it not to have it done by the dealership for over $600. He seemed to be mechanically competent, and he sounded confident that his shop was up to the job.

I dropped the car off and had him also install my new SOS steering rack bushings with the clutch master cylinder. After I got my car back I immediately noticed the alignment was completely off, which he refused to acknowledge responsibility for and I had to get the wheels aligned again at the tire shop (details in the SOS Steering Rack group buy thread).

That evening I drove home from the shop already irritated about the misalignment, and then I noticed a slight mechanical wurring sound from the engine compartment that I never noticed before. It sounded like the clutch or gears as it's sound was consistent with the engine revs. I put the car in neutral as I was still rolling and revved to engine to see if it was still making the sound. At low RPM's it did not, but at around 3-4k it sounded like something was catching and it made the same mechanical wurring sound. Now I was really mad:mad: . I thought after all the headache over the aligmnent and now it appears the clutch master cylinder was improperly installed. Perhaps the clutch was not fullly disengaging I thought, as the friction point is consideralby lower than it was previously (it still caught a little way from the fully depressed point).

I called my mechanic the next day and asked him to look at it, at which point he seemed slightly irritated as this was the second time I came back to his shop complaining about his work. He sat in the car and felt the engagement points, revved the engine in neutral and found nothing to be wrong with the car. I told him that it made a minor mechanical sound when revving in neutral and he then got even more irritated and told me that I could damage the car when revving the engine with the clutch depressed, which was not what I was doing and explained to him again that I was revving it in NEUTRAL! Regardless, he found nothing wrong so off I went.

The car seemed to behave normally the next couple of days until I got the revs up onto the freeway when the car made an unpleasant smell. My girlfriend told me it smelled like burning oil as we were driving at freeway speeds (I lost most of my sense of smell earlier this year unfortunately) but I could definitely smell something unpleasant. Perhaps burned oil it was but I couldn't check on it until today when I got on the freeway and it made the same smell.

The exhaust tips were fairly black after that, but I didn't get to see any blue smoke. The smell also comes fairly strong in the engine compartment.

The golden question is: Could this strong smell be clutch related as it did not make a burning smell before I had the master clutch cylinder replaced? Could it be related to the mechanical sounds I hear from the engine compartment? Or is it completely unrelated and can I bless my mechanic for all the harrassment I've given him?

Please let me know! I'd hate to be burning up the clutch or let the problem whatever it is continue without knowing what it is.

I am probably going to take it to the dealership unless anyone can recommend a competent NSX mechanic in the SF Bay area.

I will keep you posted.
Thanks,

Tai
 
It could be that the clutch is not fully engaging because of a faulty (or no!) adjustment of the pedal after the master cyclinder install - there needs to be free play of the pedal so it can be fully retracted & not still imparting any pressure, which would in turn cause the clutch to not engage freely (thereby slipping)

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf
Go to page 320 and you should be able to check for yourself if there is the specified free play. Observe the CAUTION note in first paragraph!

(or see it below if legible enough)

attachment.php
 

Attachments

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Thanks D'Ecosse,

I checked out the clutch master cylinder, and it was installed properly. As it turns out, the wurring sound has subsided for reasons unknown, and the burning oil has stopped completely, probably due to a bad tank of gasoline, according to the dealer. I owe this forum a lot for the help it has given me.

Thank you all!

Tai:wink:
 
IMHO, the problem was that the clutch system was not bled properly when you got it back. I bet your clutch is how grabbing a little higher then when you first got it back. There should be no reason to adjust the clutch free play when you replace a master. They are all preset from the factory, at least the 13-14 I have done, but what do I know;).

The clutch system, interestingly enough can become a self-bleeding system. If you work the clutch enough the air bubbles will flow back to the master cylinder reservoir and once fully bled will magically start working properly.

Ask me how I know:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
Larry Bastanza said:
IMHO, the problem was that the clutch system was not bled properly when you got it back. I bet your clutch is how grabbing a little higher then when you first got it back. There should be no reason to adjust the clutch free play when you replace a master. They are all preset from the factory, at least the 13-14 I have done, but what do I know;).

The clutch system, interestingly enough can become a self-bleeding system. If you work the clutch enough the air bubbles will flow back to the master cylinder reservoir and once fully bled will magically start working properly.

Ask me how I know:).

HTH,
LarryB


How did you know? I suppose 13-14 replacements is enough experience, and you're absolutely right. The friction point IS significantly higher now than when I first got it back, catching about 4" from the floor when it was about about 2".

I think I can stop worrying about this for now finally. Any recommended NSX specialists in the bay area?

Thanks everyone,
Tai:smile:
 
Tai said:
Any recommended NSX specialists in the bay area?

I would recommend you ask in the NW regional forum. I am not sure if Don at Hilltop Auto is close to you. He comes highly recommended, AFAIK.

Also please check your fluid level in the clutch master reservoir. Since your pedal is grabbing two inches higher, I suspect your fluid level is probably down a little. It is important you fill it, so you have a reference to where is was filled, if you have a clutch problem in the future.

BTW, I would strongly recommend the slave cylinder is changed as soon as convenient, if that was not replaced already it is inevitable, it will go bad and start leaking back by the trans. If you see a leak back there, and it is a clear fluid, not engine oil, you will know what to do:).

HTH,
LarryB
 
Tai said:
I think I can stop worrying about this for now finally. Any recommended NSX specialists in the bay area?

Thanks everyone,
Tai:smile:

I wish had read this thread earlier, or that you had done a search of Bay Area NSX Techs, beacuse you would have found Don at Hilltop Auto. He is the first and last place to go for your NSX service.
 
Hi Ken,

I was pretty sure Don was in that area;). Definately the way to go.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Did this myself. It took about 3 hrs (took my time). Pretty easy DIY.
 
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